Airpax Snapac "Instant" Hydraulic-Magnetic Circuit Breaker

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Be careful installing too many TVS diodes across the tracks if you run DCS.  The capacitance of the TVS devices add up and will degrade the DCS signal.

Thanks John

John

@PLCProf posted:

As an experiment, I set up my layout about 10 years ago with a "textbook" TMCC/Legacy arrangement, each 180 watt brick is connected to a Legacy Powermaster, using the recommended Lionel cables and fuses, with absolutely no other breakers, fuses, TVSS diodes or anything. No electronic failures so far despite the typical share of derailments and tools on the track. I run Legacy, TMCC, Lionchief Plus and a tiny bit of conventional.

The protection in the 180 watt bricks is fast, but the Legacy Powermaster is even faster, it is almost impossible to trip the breaker in the brick; the Powermaster almost always trips first.

No pre-war/post-war transformers involved. Personally, I think pre-war/post-war transformers are the root of a lot more electronic evil than is generally appreciated.

YMMV.

I’m curious. Did you mean otherwise unprotected layouts using pre/post-war transformers?

The reason I ask, is that after adding TVS diodes and magnetic/hydraulic breakers or wiring them through a PowerMaster, how are they any different from a modern transformer?

@PLCProf posted:

As an experiment, I set up my layout about 10 years ago with a "textbook" TMCC/Legacy arrangement, each 180 watt brick is connected to a Legacy Powermaster, using the recommended Lionel cables and fuses, with absolutely no other breakers, fuses, TVSS diodes or anything. No electronic failures so far despite the typical share of derailments and tools on the track. I run Legacy, TMCC, Lionchief Plus and a tiny bit of conventional.

The protection in the 180 watt bricks is fast, but the Legacy Powermaster is even faster, it is almost impossible to trip the breaker in the brick; the Powermaster almost always trips first.

No pre-war/post-war transformers involved. Personally, I think pre-war/post-war transformers are the root of a lot more electronic evil than is generally appreciated.

YMMV.

@rplst8 posted:

I’m curious. Did you mean otherwise unprotected layouts using pre/post-war transformers?

The reason I ask, is that after adding TVS diodes and magnetic/hydraulic breakers or wiring them through a PowerMaster, how are they any different from a modern transformer?

Ryan, good question.  I'm hoping it will entice PLCProf to revisist the forum soon.  His last visit was 10/18/22.  I enjoy learning from his insights.

@Richie C.

Please provide the source, part number, & description of your 4-screw black terminal blocks (?).

I want to buy some of those for my layout. 

Thanks in advance !!!

CB&Q Bill

@CBQ_Bill  I notice Richie C. has been away from the forum for a few days.  If you're looking for a 10-pack of the 2-position (4 screw) terminal blocks similar to Richie's, Amazon has them:

https://www.amazon.com/TDA-02-...676835164&sr=8-3

There are of course other sellers with lower prices, but if you have Prime, these are a decent deal if you want them quickly.

Here is how I set up my feed lines to the track.

These are a great alternative.

I remember this thread from the summer.  Looking at my old posts in this thread I just realized I never did close the loop on the horn on my F3.  Unfortunately I can't remember all the details.  I did remove the diode from the engine, but I believe I convinced myself that wasn't the problem with the horn.  It may have been poor track connections.  In any case, the horn works great now albeit there is no diode in the engine.

@texgeekboy  Glad you got it working.

Been using airpax 5 amp breaker with no issues for several years.  When running my large texas special (Neal Young version) my airpax starts making a very noticeable vibration noise.  Thoughts?  Thanks!

@texasspeciallionel posted:

Been using airpax 5 amp breaker with no issues for several years.  When running my large texas special (Neal Young version) my airpax starts making a very noticeable vibration noise.  Thoughts?  Thanks!

In my experience the vibration noise happens when the current starts to get close to the rated amps of the breaker. Use a 7.5 or 10 amp Airpax and the noise should go away.

The 5A Airpax are prone to buzzing in 18V AC applications. The 7.5A version hits the sweet spot for most O-Gauge applications.

Thanks!  Been trying to find a 7.5 but look to be on back order.  Thanks for the feedback!