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This is my latest project, its a Pride Lines reproduction of a Lionel#2 Trolley with a McCoy truck and an Ira Keeler drop in open frame motor.  This is its first run ever and my puppy's first intro to trains.  Now I will have to add a head light and a tail light, passengers,engineer, maybe a pantagraph or trolley pole, and some paint.  If I add the pantagraph I can run it on my shop layout which has a live standard gauge catenary wire(rail). If I make a trolley pole I will make a trolley wire system like I saw at York in the orange hall. Either way it will be nice seeing it run from the over head wire/rail .

 My other projects include: finding a pair of silver 512 badges for my gondola car, a silver center dome for my 515 tank car and a silver handrail for my 520 search light car. I also still have to find a photo of a drover to put in my lighted 513 poultry car that I made. Then maybe I can move onto the next standard gauge project! LOL

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I'm needing some help since I struck out at York. What I need help with is finding a silver center dome for my 515 standard gauge tank car and a pair of silver # badges for my standard gauge 512 gondola car. Does anyone out there have these items for sale? If so please let me know. The parts dealers in the Orange Hall came up empty, for the second time. I would like to get these two cars checked off my To Fix List.

Dennis Holler posted:

Is the dome bigger than the one on the O 815 and 2815?

Maybe check if MTH offers it as a piece part for the Lionel Corp tinplate stuff. Also, keep a lookout on ebay..

Thanks for getting back to me. I'm not sure about the O size. MTH at York did not have anything I needed. I miss T Bolt ! I will have to check him out on line.  These two project cars are taking forever or so it seems. 😄

GwrChurchward posted:
JohnnieWalker posted:

One more for the evening. I bought this laser cut wood bridge kit at York this fall in the Blue Hall. It was a total impulse buy, LOL.  An easy kit to assemble and I think it looks pretty awesome. IMG_3181IMG_3179IMG_3177IMG_3174IMG_3172IMG_3145 [1)IMG_3180 [1)

Do you know who the manufacturer is?

Thanks for the like.  All I know is that I bought it from a great guy and the instructions say Harris Hobby House on it. No # or address.  I believe his table was in the last row of the Blue Hall at York. The row furthest from Silver Hall. He also had another design as well but this one caught my eye. I hope this helps you. 

Here's yet another standard gauge project. It may not seem like a big deal to some but I've been searching  the train shows for a full year to find  nickel  #512 plates for my gondola car.  It was crazy !! Having parts dealers saying that they had them but just didn't bring them to the show, catch them next time.  They had plenty of brass plates though. Haha  Finally I looked up George Tebolt and found them, ordered them and got them. Boy do I miss seeing George at York. Anyway my nickel #512 gondola car is fixed and checked off the  To Fix List.

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Another project that has been in the works for a few years. Fixing up a set of Baby State Cars that I got at an auction a few years back. I'm still wondering why I bought them. LOL!! They were painted with a brush and missing parts but at the time I didn't have any passenger cars so I thought what the heck. So I took them apart and sandblasted them and primed  and finish coated them. I also added plexiglass and Willams window inserts to add a little interest to the cars. I also had to add new light fixtures to the cars as well. So much for a quick and cheap project.

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Some of my projects may seem very small, but when you have a lot of them , each one that gets checked off the list is a major relief.  The 155 Freight Station is now complete. One more 155 Freight Station to work on and then onto another 512 gondola project. My list is actually getting smaller, for now. LOL! For this project the last thing to do was to put the name plates on. When I got it,it had a piece of wood between the base and the base cover. It was a piece of one by material cut to the size of the base cover and screwed in place. This raised the platform up 3/4 of an inch, and it was  painted an odd color. I believe this was done because the three posts are broken at the bottoms and the previous owner had his own idea of fixing the problem. They were also rigged with a piece of coat hanger as well. The whole thing was a bit wobbly to say the least. I removed that piece of wood and added m y own, all hidden from view. All secured and no wobble . It seems to be all original except for the repainting of the base, and now the name plates. This project is now CHECKED OFFIMG_3539IMG_3538IMG_3537

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Dennis Holler posted:

  Jonnie, I'm right there with you man! I love to keep my engine and passenger car project lots in show boxes... I have a bunch of them.  I need to update my project thread.  I think if You, me and Dave worked on and finished all our projects this forum would be stuffed with posts for months!

 

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WOW !! If all those boxes are projects, you have me beat for sure. It seems that my new addiction to standard gauge is causing my head to spin. I have tried to stop collecting projects for a while but you guys know all to well while looking for a part for one project there's another to be had at the next table. I have three or four more 500 series cars to work on, a few signals, adding new light sockets and new wiring to a few houses, and some Ives street lamps to get to. Plus I have a trolley and a rail bus sitting in boxes just waiting to be worked on again. I think I can do it as long as I check off more than I add to the list. LOL!! 

Lets see some of your projects.

Probably 60% projects, there are three boxes of ho stuff that I'll never use, a bunch of TycoPro sets in the last picture, and I think another couple of those big water boxes has empty Lionel boxes and another has a pile of 2454 style box cars cause I love those things..  I've got some standard gauge projects up in the attic, three automobile projects, and a Partridge in a pear tree.. It's out of hand.  A buddy and I parted out a 63 Ford Falcon earlier this year and I'm glad we did the dirty work at his house, my wife would have killed me! That was worth while though as we doubled our money and I got a perfect grill for my Falcon hardtop.  I'm gonna try not to buy any more projects Jan 1.  not sure how far I'll make it but it's worth a shot.  No new projects and finish old projects...

Dave, I know where you can get some more projects

Here's an older project that I posted a year or so ago. I think I have 5 513 cattle cars so I decided to turn one of them into a lighted poultry car.  My 390E freight train was pretty dark running it in the dark. A light on the engine and a light on the caboose and a whole lot of nothing in between. This is also before my 520 search light car project.  I got the idea from my set of 12 or more 0 gauge poultry train on my buddies layout. I have all but 4 of them.  So now there are two lighted cars mixed in the consist, a poultry car and my search light car. I have also added an extra two lights to my cabooses. A light on each end and one inside.513 #19513 #18513 #17513 #10513 #7513 #4513 standard gauge chicken car project

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Well here's another project to check off the list. After building my MU cars and running them at my shop I thought something was missing, a tail light ! I bought the tail light at last years YORK show and I finally got around to installing it. I will be looking forward to seeing it run all lit up. After this I have my 515 tank car to work on, a 512 gondola car to customize and a 517 caboose that needs a light. That's not all, that's just the easy stuff before hitting the other project boxes that I have . Sorry the photos are in the wrong order.IMG_3847IMG_3846IMG_3843IMG_3842IMG_3841IMG_3839 

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Last edited by JohnnieWalker
JohnnieWalker posted:

This is my latest project, its a Pride Lines reproduction of a Lionel#2 Trolley with a McCoy truck and an Ira Keeler drop in open frame motor.  This is its first run ever and my puppy's first intro to trains.  Now I will have to add a head light and a tail light, passengers,engineer, maybe a pantagraph or trolley pole, and some paint.  If I add the pantagraph I can run it on my shop layout which has a live standard gauge catenary wire(rail). If I make a trolley pole I will make a trolley wire system like I saw at York in the orange hall. Either way it will be nice seeing it run from the over head wire/rail .

 My other projects include: finding a pair of silver 512 badges for my gondola car, a silver center dome for my 515 tank car and a silver handrail for my 520 search light car. I also still have to find a photo of a drover to put in my lighted 513 poultry car that I made. Then maybe I can move onto the next standard gauge project! LOL

Pets are so funny and cute when they interact with trains. I think they think trains in motion are animals, maybe a snake. Your puppy, however, was not afraid of, but amused by, your tinplate train.

Arnold D. Cribari posted:
JohnnieWalker posted:

This is my latest project, its a Pride Lines reproduction of a Lionel#2 Trolley with a McCoy truck and an Ira Keeler drop in open frame motor.  This is its first run ever and my puppy's first intro to trains.  Now I will have to add a head light and a tail light, passengers,engineer, maybe a pantagraph or trolley pole, and some paint.  If I add the pantagraph I can run it on my shop layout which has a live standard gauge catenary wire(rail). If I make a trolley pole I will make a trolley wire system like I saw at York in the orange hall. Either way it will be nice seeing it run from the over head wire/rail .

 My other projects include: finding a pair of silver 512 badges for my gondola car, a silver center dome for my 515 tank car and a silver handrail for my 520 search light car. I also still have to find a photo of a drover to put in my lighted 513 poultry car that I made. Then maybe I can move onto the next standard gauge project! LOL

Pets are so funny and cute when they interact with trains. I think they think trains in motion are animals, maybe a snake. Your puppy, however, was not afraid of, but amused by, your tinplate train.

Thanks for the comment. Little Jagger is not so little now,62 lbs. and almost 8 months old. I have been running a few trains on the floor to prep him for the Christmas floor layout I set up at my brothers home. Happy to report he did awesome ! 

JohnnieWalker posted:

Here's an older project that I posted a year or so ago. I think I have 5 513 cattle cars so I decided to turn one of them into a lighted poultry car.  My 390E freight train was pretty dark running it in the dark. A light on the engine and a light on the caboose and a whole lot of nothing in between. This is also before my 520 search light car project.  I got the idea from my set of 12 or more 0 gauge poultry train on my buddies layout. I have all but 4 of them.  So now there are two lighted cars mixed in the consist, a poultry car and my search light car. I have also added an extra two lights to my cabooses. A light on each end and one inside.513 #19513 #18513 #17513 #10513 #7513 #4513 standard gauge chicken car project

I love this idea,i want to make one with a 200 car,just need to find a cheap one,thanks for the super idea 

JohnnieWalker posted:

Thanks Terry Hudon I hope you find one soon. It was a fun project that added some new interest to the train. I have a few other cars that I'm customizing that I'll post as I get to them. Only requirement is you show us what you did. Good luck.

will do ,I found a donor,,,where did you get the chicken panels from?

I took one out of one of my 14 O gauge poultry dispatch cars and photo copied it. I then cut each row of chickens and spaced them accordingly to the openings on the car. once I did that I again photo copied it and created a new chicken panel. I also taped the photo copy to a piece of plexiglass  and then mounted it in place.IMG_1433IMG_1432IMG_1431

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Here is a project that I worked on not that long ago. While in my shop looking at my shop layout I thought it would be nice to see a few garages next to the villas and bungalows. I cut a 4x4 down to 2x3 blocks with a 90 degree roof. I added brick paint I bought at York , corrugated paper from a hobby store for the roof and I drew the windows and doors and made copies of them to glue on. Then I did the artwork of plants and vines. They may not be to scale with the houses but they do have a slight tinplate look to them  . I think that’s why I like Standard Gauge so much.578A6B1B-9F2B-4F2D-B067-970C83E4E047DFF58B83-C298-44DF-A2E8-F8F9CEBA0620CA1A95EA-D475-4C06-8386-8756FBE2575B44DE201B-8F7A-46F1-B466-F0A8F3CEF40256B67766-030F-434A-8B0C-3B06E0D9AE357E73BBE1-C8BC-417F-8338-F2499EE5D068B37BF102-0546-44C1-8EA8-F510D7675905F635264D-409F-4127-8675-EBAEF83CE842FC223089-58A2-458B-A046-4257D43F34F666050DA6-C044-4882-88A0-E998E696B9CFF7B187A0-8975-48FF-B453-6CCC324F9A7F

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Something else that I’ve slowly been working on. It’s a 392 tender that I’m pairing up with my Lionel green 390 steamer. The last thing to do to it is to add a Dallee bell and whistle sound system. And that includes adding two roller pickups . I’m looking forward to finishing this project soon. I had the tender paint made at a local auto body paint store. I took the green 390 boiler in and had them match the color. I also added another hole for the drawbar to move the tender a little closer.  The painting process was clean and scuff up the gun metal paint, add two coats of green then 3 coats of clear gloss.? Next step is to cut the soup can down to make a speaker box and to glue and wire it up. An up date hopefully soon.716147CE-406C-4731-8688-18EC5FF3E64044952F74-1525-4D1C-AFC6-AA9DD2E36707C8A31C7C-260D-48AD-8A62-A542B8F318BB7E9B76B0-6573-4451-A87F-DD476DFFA85C75DD3709-3DC7-4686-B151-BBB093D9BD4ECCDA0318-D768-4382-BD38-47839A5ECE863252F6F1-F37A-4B4A-BAD6-B64014D7A581133AA4F5-111B-47B0-8E1B-FE651B70DCB1963D609E-B354-4B81-A5D1-13A46AB87FF737869F02-A3D3-4FEA-AD0B-4F24DDC42E060670482A-483F-4E77-BC90-A93C2102D6D9D04CA4B8-1C40-4677-90F1-F9BA2626217AB5889EE9-1A87-47FF-9F60-C618F30902440228CFA2-A427-4B8E-9021-AB78D4FA9BD498481673-7C06-4708-A0C5-D599807CB03033ABD293-388E-4757-9048-BD2A0310C923511ACAF3-60C0-4635-9C4E-B7B80AD805FE984BA694-D157-42B2-9E3C-CEEE1FC04455

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ChooChoo1972 posted:

G'luck with the tender. Did you ever make a "chicken clucking" sound Mp3 module for those poltry cars?

Thanks for the luck on the tender. Creating the sound box for the speaker now. A soup can is the perfect size for a 2 1/2 inch speaker. 

 I'm still playing with the idea of putting sound in the chicken car. That project is on hold right now, too many other projects going on at the same time. Six of them in fact . My main goal is to get this tender done first.

There are now two videos for the station showing different stages of being near done. They can be viewed on my youtube channel.   Just google   glass top standard gauge train station and you should see the videos.  up next is wiring up the lights, then installing the finials, adding a few billboards and then some sitting people. Photos will follow soon. 

stevin posted:

what a great job! what did you use for the brick? also are those posts and beams from an erector set?

 The brick paper I bought at Hobby Lobby, a craft store. After I glued the paper down and it dried I coated it with clear laquer to protect it and to give it a little shine . The four posts are made from erector beams, two for each post.  Most of the erector parts came from the YORK train show. My buddy usually buys everything and anything in the "junk" box. 

Sunrise Special posted:

JOHNNIEWALKER,

Real nice paint job...would like to know your process on how you got such great results!

Sunrise

First off thanks for the compliment , I do appreciate it.  The engine was painted by Lionel and I took the boiler to an auto body shop and had them match the color. I had them make me a spray can of the green, which was a flat green and I also had them make me a clear gloss top coat. I sprayed the tender 3 times with the green and I sprayed 5 coats of clear on. My prep work consisted of using  a scotchbrite pad to scuff up the gunmetal paint and then wiping it down with a clean rag. I just had to make sure I didn't over spray it each time, light coats is the trick. then I waited a full 5 days before I even considered putting it back together. That was the hard part for me,LOL. 

Joe Lyons posted:

JOHNNIEWALKER,

Your ideas and creations are fantastic.  Going back through this post I saw your standard gauge poultry car.  Do you till have the file for the chickens and would you be willing to share?

Joe

Thanks Joe.  I don't have any files for the chickens. All I did was I took one of my 13   O gauge chicken cars apart and I photo copied the chicken inserts a few times. Then I cut them into strips to match the remaining slats on the new poultry car.  Once I did that I taped them onto another piece of paper and filled in the gap with black marker. Basically it is the old fashion cut and paste way of doing things since I'm not the best  at using a computer.  It really wasn't too hard or time consuming to do. I also high lighted a few of the chickens with colored   pencils to make it more tin plate looking.  Good luck to you if you are going to copy it.  

So here is a project that started two years ago at York.   I bought a Highway flasher from All About Trains in the Orange Hall, a unit that was designed  and built to  flash like a real signal.  After installing it in the Lionel flasher and liking it a lot I decided to get two more the next year.   When I finally got to his booth he was sold out !  Jump forward two years, I reached out to All Aboard Trains  and bought two more, one for my American Flyer signal and one for my Marx signal.   With some slight modifications to the American Flyer signal , I now have three different and cool flasher signals for my future layout.  

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Merry Christmas , 12/26/18  although it’s not 100% done , my glass top station made its debut this Christmas season.  What’s left ?  Finish wiring up the lights in a clean and organized way , add 3 finials and add some signs .  Plus fabricate a set of steps .  The plastic people need some attention as well.  Reposition some limbs and some paint shold do the trick . F9D52956-9A6C-432B-A43D-0826839B338A

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Here is a project that I have been putting off for a few years, 8 or so.  My good friend and I bought a box , a large box of bottle brush trees at York one fall . We actually gave some away to another great friend for his help at York.  Anyway not long ago we finally divided them up .  They were sitting under the train  table for all those years. My guess is 98% of them did not have bases and they needed them , so my next project was born.  #1. I cut a few size disks using hole saws in my drill press. #2. Primed them. #3. Sanded them. #4. Added two coats of dark red semi gloss finish.  #5. drilled holes #6. Hot glued the trees in place.    It wasn't a fast project, but well worth it.  Now that I have mine done I'm now working on my friends half of the trees. IMG_8670IMG_8671IMG_8672IMG_8674IMG_8675IMG_8676IMG_8678IMG_8679IMG_8680 

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Another standard gauge project under way . This project came to me not long ago ,  I was at a local train show and spotted an Ives telltale and thought I should have one . The price for it was too much for my budget and seeing what they have been bringing on eBay I thought I would never have one .  Low and behold I had a base for a standard gauge lamp post in my junk/project box and the wheels upstairs started turning . I went to my local hardware store where they have a fine assortment of brass rod , tubing and sheets in various sizes .  I picked out an assortment of brass tubing  and then went to the lamp parts  section and picked out two finials . IMG_8914IMG_8915IMG_8916IMG_9117  In my box of assorted pieces and parts I found a dozen or so jewelry clasps and a length of chain .  With the help of my Dremel , some J B weld and some solder this is what I've come up .  Next up is to paint it , except I kind of like it in this stage .  One of the best things about standard gauge to me is , I get to build stuff !

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You inspired me to make a telltale also.   How tall is you make your's?  On mine the arm is at 10 inches and the top of the post is about 12 1/2.  My finial is also rather tall but I couldn't find a shorter one in the local Menards. I'll keep looking for something shorter. My chains may be a little short and the arm may be high but it's only for looks and I didn't want it to get caught on any cars. I've got a 219 crane that I was afraid it might catch.

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Finally done !!! And it wasn't so hard .  My home made tell tail finally got painted yesterday and is now off the to do list .  My problem is that I have so many ideas in my head I seem to be like a butterfly jumping from one  project to another before finishing the one I'm working on .  It's a bad habit of mine .  The glass top station is still a work in progress . Yesterday I not only got the tell Tail painted , I finally bought the 3 finials that will finish  the station . Next project is ??? too many to choose from . IMG_9569IMG_9568 

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Steamer posted:

that looks great! and nothing wrong with jumping projects...while you wait on parts for one, you move one....waiting for paint to dry...onto the next....

Thanks for saying so .  As of right now I have at least 5 projects to either be finished or are in the drawing stage. Some simple and some not so simple . I've been following one thread on this forum about making standard gauge power trucks,  I need three for my future projects .

Joe Lyons posted:

Johhnie,

I tried to search up the thread on making standard gauge power trucks but could not find it.  Would you mind posting the link to it?

Thanks.

Hi Joe.  Try searching        Making a standard gauge railbus . That is where a few members have been discussing the motors .  I hope this helps you .  I'm not the best at posting links. 

Pete in Kansas posted:

You inspired me to make a telltale also.   How tall is you make your's?  On mine the arm is at 10 inches and the top of the post is about 12 1/2.  My finial is also rather tall but I couldn't find a shorter one in the local Menards. I'll keep looking for something shorter. My chains may be a little short and the arm may be high but it's only for looks and I didn't want it to get caught on any cars. I've got a 219 crane that I was afraid it might catch.

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Hi Pete. Sorry for the delay in answering your question .  I kind of put my train projects on hold for a while and never checked my post.   So from the table top,  my cross arm is 9 &  3/4 inches high , and the bottom of my chains are  6& 1/2 inches from table top to the bottom of them .  Once this tell tail gets placed on a layout I can shorten the chains as needed .  I only have 500 series  freight cars  and a set of Stephen Girard passenger cars so my clearance is limited to those sets .     I'm pretty lucky to have an old school hardware store between where I live and my shop.  They have been a great place to find all my nuts and bolts ,  brass tubing and finials for my projects .  Glad they are surviving with two huge box lumber/home stores less than  4 miles away.

So here is one of my projects that has finally gotten under way.  Not sure why , because there is another a third way done on the work table as I type this .  I may have gotten the bug  after seeing a few recent posts about motors and homemade engines  and a video of a small diesel engine I think made by McCoy.  I have always thought a Standard Gauge diesel switcher would be great to have pulling my 500 series  freight cars . So, I bought an O gauge Alaska  switcher on eBay (shell only ) and used it as a model .  As you can see it is a rough interpretation of the Alaska switcher , but a start.  The prototype was made out of wood in my shop ,next is to sand it and paint it . At that point I will decide on any changes  and then attempt to recreate it in brass . Which I've never done before .  In the two photos you can see the shape I was going for and the size compared to a repro #2 trolley .  I have a long way to go . IMG_0087IMG_0088 

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Maybe I have too much time on my hands and Not sure if anyone else has done this , build a scale model of the layout you want to build.  This is what I hope to get off the floor and onto a platform one day.  This  standard gauge layout measures 16'x6' and is approximately 3' tall and  The model is 12"x32".  Each of my structures are within a fraction of an inch to being scale. My eyesight is not what it once was .  There are  two home made stations, each being 3' long , a homemade water tower made from an old coffee can, a sand tower and a forest lookout tower.  This simple layout is basically a figure 8 with a  connecting loop around it .  The long straight run will have ten (10)  101 single span bridges all connected to be a 140 inch bridge .  I got a large box of them at a local auction a few years back.  Not shown on the model are my villas ,bungalows , street lights ,signals, home made telephone polls and trees .  Anyway, its been a fun little project to do and it has kept me in the dreaming state like a kid again.   I currently don't have the space for it , I do have all the frame work and supports for it from an O gauge layout many years ago. IMG_0732IMG_0733IMG_0734IMG_0736IMG_0739IMG_0743IMG_0742IMG_0741IMG_0746IMG_0745IMG_0744

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Here is a list of whats in the photos above.

1  165 magnetic crane

1 laser cut bridge ( painted yellow, bought at York )

1 coffee can homemade water tower

1   3' glass top homemade station

1  437 switch tower

1  124 city station

1  436 power station

2  155 freight stations 

2  120 tunnels 

2  280 girder bridges

1  300 hellgate bridge

4   92 floodlight towers

2   438 signal towers

10   101 single span bridges

1  marx freight shed

1  marx switch tower 

2  494 towers ,  one being a sand tower and the other a forest lookout tower.

1  cookie tin diner

1   3' tin roof station 

1  lighted water tower . 

A small update on my Standard Gauge Glass Top Station . After its debut on my 2018 Christmas  floor layout I boxed it up although I still had some finish wiring to do on it .  Well I cleaned it and got all my wires soldered and wire shrink wrapped . Is it done now you may ask , no . I think I need to add two more benches to the backsides of the ones already there , then it might be done . Today I will look in my shop for any scrap angle iron  to use for the benches . IMG_2405 [2)IMG_2404 [1)IMG_2403 [1)IMG_2402 [1)

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02-14-2020 While in my shop yesterday I came across an old project that I kind of forgot about .  Here are two different standard gauge grade crossings I had made a few years back , one for straight track and one for a  O42 curve track.  I do have  5 or 6 straight pairs not painted or stained in a box that I may find myself selling .  I know I've said this before and I will probably say it again , the best thing about standard gauge for me  is ,I get to build stuff .IMG_2478IMG_2479IMG_2480IMG_2481IMG_2482IMG_2483IMG_2484IMG_2485

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Here is a project that needs some attention . 15 single arm and 3 double arm Ives lamp posts that are in need of repair .  There are a few that have been rewired and work , few being the key word . I will be purchasing some 24 gauge wire this week in prep for my job of rewiring these lamp posts . I also need to re solder two arms back onto the posts , re solder  two lampshades  and paint a few that are in no way to my liking .  I also have 4 more lamp posts that have broken arms where the lamp hangs  .  Not sure what the future has in store for them . IMG_2615IMG_2614IMG_2613IMG_2612IMG_2611IMG_2610IMG_2609IMG_2608IMG_2607IMG_2605

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Not quite done , but excited that I've gotten this far on yet another Standard Gauge Project .  I have had this idea in my mind for a few years after I made my Standard Gauge Lighted Poultry Dispatch Car.  An operating standard gauge milk car .   The tinkering and prototypes were endless events .  So here is a start to the photos I took along the way .  I started off with a MTH 514 refrigerator car I got off ebay . IMG_9824

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IMG_0750IMG_0751Here is my first prototype of the operating track that needed to be made . The white base is PVC board cut to shape and thickness . The track is a standard size straight section , one of a few  I had bought from USA Track .  This proved to be not a good idea , I ditched the base for another design , still using the track . 

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IMG_2430IMG_2590At this point I cut 4 kerf cuts in the steel and slightly bent them at each end so what ever I used as an electrical pick up would roll or slide up onto them .  So there would not be a big bump I counter sank the screw heads into the steel . The 4 screws holding the steel to the new PVC board are nutted and J B welded on the underside .IMG_2591

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IMG_2688IMG_2689The first unloader needed to be raised up alittle so I cut more of the PVC board to fit inside the car .  Also needed was to drill out for the the truck pin , the coupler box , the electric holes for the connecting wires and the counter sink holes for holding everything in place .  I must have cut half a dozen of these bases .  Also you are seeing two different roofs .  I took one of my spare roofs and cut the curved lips off , I tried to cut only one but the roof sat crooked on the car , so I took both off to make taking the roof off easy .  I placed  6  small earth magnets  on the car and they hold the roof on pretty secure ! That was my solution to remove the roof so I could reload easily .IMG_2690

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IMG_2691IMG_2736You can see the size of the strong earth magnets on the car . I added two more to what you can see .  The roof was painted with a rattle can I had sitting around .  You can also see in the one photo how the flat steel electric "rails" are sloped at each end .  At this point I still did not know how I was going to get the electric up into the car ! Lots of experimenting and prototypes for sure . IMG_2737

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IMG_2749IMG_2750These two photos show where I ran my two pieces of PVC board through my table saw to make room for 4 magnets . These 4 magnets , 2 in each corner hold the track PVC to the unloading platform PVC . They are held in place with more J B weld .  I did this because I am not sure where I would want to place this accessory on a layout . Maybe have the car unload at the freight station instead . Plus it made it easy to work on . 

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IMG_2861 [1)Well here is my final solution to getting the electric up into the car . I bought an electric pickup for an O gauge engine and cut it in half .  I drilled a hole in each one and mounted them to the plexi glass truck plates I made .  The little nuts and bolts that hold them in place also are used to hold a wire that is routed up and into the car body.    IT WORKS !!   

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George S posted:

Great projects! That’s so fun!

George

Thanks George ,  building and kitbashing projects for standard gauge has been a lot of fun for me .  I have a few more ideas  for a few more cars ,  maybe an automated ice car  or  a merchandise car  .  What I would like to do next is make a small diesel  switcher . I have  3 steamers right now , a MTH 384 and 2 Lionel 390s  so a small switcher would be nice .  I made a mock up of it out of wood .IMG_0087

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Here's an interesting thing , at least to me . I did not know or realize that the 101 had this type of paint job . I have noticed the two different greens for the arches  but never took notice of the bases . While I repaint a box load of these bridges I got at an auction ,IMG_3146IMG_3145IMG_3144IMG_3143IMG_3142 I am going to keep a select few with this paint intact .  Kind of wish all my bridges were painted this way , I think it's kind of cool. 

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@navy.seal posted:

Where did those spring loaded doors come from?

Bob Nelson

Hi Bob 

So sorry  for the delay in getting back to you . I totally missed the alert that you posted a question for me .   The answer to your question is from an early  Lionel automatic milk car . There are two versions of  the Lionel milk car doors , and these were a perfect match for what I was doing .  Lucky for me , I had one early milk car and two later model milk cars that I could use for pieces and parts.   The later doors if I remember  correctly, have an unusual spring configuration and mounting system .  It was a lot easier to mount the early doors and use the unloader from the later version .  I don't remember the #s of the milk cars and I just sold the body  shells on Ebay two days ago .  I hope this helps you .   Cheers 

Love the milk car - have you got a way to load the cans through the roof, or must it be removed?

I like your little switcher too - ought to get someone to make you a 3D printable model.

Jim

Hi Jim 

I had to make the roof removable . Its held in place with tiny earth magnets  and is quite secure . If you go back and look at some of the photos I posted about it  , you will see  that the unloader mechanism is way short in height to easily load the cans .  I still need to test run it behind my 390 on my shop layout . 

As for my little diesel switcher , I hope to get started on it this year .  I always thought that one of the Big manufacturers should have made a small diesel switcher . A little bigger than the McCoy "George".   Right now I'm figuring out the power source for it . I bought a LGB motor and wheels set up for it . I have the bridge rectifier it my parts bin  and my wheel puller ready .   I will post photos when this project gets moving . 

And thank you for the compliment  !!  Cheers !

Some projects end up taking longer to do than others , and this one is still not done .  But it is getting closer to being checked off the To Do list .  Here are my 10   101 bridges I have been working on over the summer and into the fall . Instead of adding all the corner posts , today I cut 18 blocks of wood to be screwed between each bridge section .  I need to prime then sand then add two coats of semi gloss finish to them . I also need to drill holes in the tops of them for the wooden finials . B98FE906-705D-4D84-BB4E-86E6EC0885514E39E0FC-AC0C-45FF-829F-A2A95A49F482E4F88DE3-37B0-49B2-ABB5-5A12A698449F40930EF2-E419-4FD3-89AF-422A71CD9BA14EEBC5C6-0E2E-4662-8AB8-951CD668AD18D678CA2A-D4C9-4B63-92E9-2A73B6716AA436F7CDE8-8254-45C9-B6DE-9ED5B2CBEA0561561FE9-1A3B-4DB3-9070-14660DBEDA3568ADD9FF-2C4D-441F-84CF-E8A71A45530EE6DA35B4-3C5B-4895-BDE2-BF3F89B40F81image

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It’s never ending ! And I don’t want it to end !!  I have the bridge project on one burner , my standard gauge diesel switcher project on a back burner , my Ives street lights on another back burner plus a few projects up in the attic . But there is yet another project on a front burner and it’s my version of a milk car .  I’m using 3” plastic pipe cut to 9” , 22.5 degree angled ends and PVC board cut to 1/4” thick for the ends .  I have a prototype started and my fingers crossed it turns out like the image in my head .😄In the end I’m hoping to have a nice farm train .   The bottom cradle supports need to be resized so they won’t over hang the 511 flat car sides . 55791807-AB73-4BB9-A1D3-E6AA69C021272EE0ECE7-E258-4AE9-A318-C3A127650DF0FEBEC2F2-935F-4BA1-9C07-82DF7DA273E0EEEE8A64-E04A-4D2E-AFB2-8ED97921D328

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Here’s an update on my milk car project(s) .  I’m making a few at the same time since all I have is an image in my head as to what I want . I’m happy to report that they are turning out how I expected . Fingers crossed they continue to be what I have envisioned.  I need to go up in the attic to see if I have any 511 flatcars to use !! E7504B06-BEE0-4AF2-8F2B-25F9CA54FA519D86FD25-7799-417E-93A7-74DF09D10A9C7FC1F8E2-A5D4-4477-8C7F-DD1BA86A100FEE8CE3EB-0E29-4B90-BBFE-765C9FC34FEC7232FF89-EA50-4D27-BE17-AFFE3FAF06795D2B4D47-9904-4CBD-98A6-B0C3EE1B5F6FE8DD7586-23A8-4F9B-B518-A4247927B78200B7B70F-F168-40F4-BB43-244FD570C6D75709C6D2-327D-4FF9-A4F5-FC208813CE7209919DAE-C7DF-486A-BE45-ECE1038123A0

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Update on my standard gauge milk tank car .  I found one 511 flat car with stanchions in my box of cars up in the attic for my test car . I’m still figuring out how to mount the tank to the car . Anyway , there are 3 coats of primer sprayed on the tank and 4 holes drilled for the grab rails .  I made a simple jig to bend the stainless steel rod that I’m using for the grab rail , then drilled 1/16 holes for them to fit into . I’ve been on the laptop searching for dairy emblems to use and have earmarked a few .  So far it’s turning the way I want . 👍 AB6F93DE-CFE5-4ADE-826C-01ABCD6181FD09D820FD-F80A-44A3-9AE5-F4E4D7336D0602A722C5-F023-4BED-B2A3-DA8565B8EE1A3548A2BB-3692-4044-8BD8-37959FD7C912896457A4-C17B-4E70-8118-917134C51E57C60F5389-0FC7-49C2-91E2-AFAC21830EF3DC846874-D3AC-44DB-A980-B2FD99AF9077

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I now have a small dilemma .  The size of the tank used for the milk tank car . As you can see it looks quite large for a 500 series car .  Now I can drop it down so it rests completely on the flatcar , which might be a solution or It may look better sitting on a 200 series flat car .  With that being said , I will make yet another prototype using a smaller diameter pipe .  I will continue to finish the few I’ve started and possibly sell them .  
On another note,  my bridge project is all but done . There are 4 brass wood screws in most of the wooden posts to hold it all together . I say most because I made it sectional , each section being  two bridge spans .  This bridge is just over 11 feet long !!  Perfect for my floor layout . 333312FA-FBC4-4C0E-BC73-0876A82FEBCCCF3806EF-4911-4A11-B39D-6EF7C872C1D3A64056E0-9590-4BDE-B908-D462BF8FA17F55DC646E-C418-4A44-9E34-8462EB7AE124C574EBEC-A7C9-4676-B08F-9A405F88DA0EB4118D71-144D-406D-9C6C-E74D310A66C4

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7F88CD3D-55E4-4ED6-B48B-D7C5D3B28D69FC5DEB7A-D9CB-4DA9-84F2-F8FDF112FF8E788F6041-47FE-454D-8F7F-001B619E0785F4CF8284-DA14-416E-9B42-650916494209A493F803-D9ED-413F-9F87-22F01319E2F9CAF2C466-93ED-40E4-833F-2D7659A1D4821F7FB60A-1AE3-419C-B360-25B15E20D7C90B395B61-145F-4F63-B8FE-7294B2E17AAD07BB6F5B-9287-47FD-82C6-81C675ED0D7BSo I thought my bridge project was all but done , I stand corrected.   While the bridges were on the floor all connected a thought popped into my head, wonder what this bridge would look like raised up ?  While cleaning up my shop I came across a few 4x4 butt ends and at that moment I thought these would be a good height .  They are 8” long x 3 1/2” tall x 2 1/2” wide .  I’ve started to cover the sides with quarry screenings ( a bucket of it that’s been in my shop for a few years ) .  Stay tuned for more progress photos and other projects ( Milk car project )

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Well here it is 01-05-2021 and I’m still working on my 500 series milk car .  I now realize that I need to mount the tank onto an old box car frame and not the flat car . Reason why are the holes for the flat car stantions , 4 on each side and they are big holes that might otherwise distract from the look I’m going for .  Now I need to rummage around to see if I have a box car that I can dismantle.   As for the tank itself, I have added a set of steps to the ends .  Next up will be adding some handrails on each end and two for the top . I also need to add some sort of bracing inside the tank so I can screw it to the 500 frame . Now  By adding the rails on the top of the tank and not the sides that will give me more uninterrupted space for graphics.  That’s the plan at this hour , ideas change constantly in my head !! I did buy some bright white satin spray paint today , hopefully that will keep me motivated.  DABEB79D-3894-4BF0-8675-03AFD9ADCF530C782014-6C7C-4282-B24A-883CAE989F129885E40B-F449-4E48-BBC1-41E5C27E91A7D355A4DD-164A-486E-AEA0-9C822DFDD68C

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Lookin' good, really good!

Will it be painted white with large black generic style MILK lettering?

Thanks for sharing and keep us posted!

Joe

Thanks for the compliment Joe  and yes it will be painted white . I will try a Bright Satin White first to see how I like it . As for the graphics , I have not decided on the color , either blue or black .    It's been a fun project so far.  Cheers.

Best adjective would be slow .LOL..  when it comes to projects I’m like a butterfly going from one to another and back again .  I’ve now decided to stick with the flat car because I really like the looks of the break wheel stantions . So the holes for the lumber stantions will most likely be covered . A9215B00-65A5-43BE-B155-A43AE9AB7C2CSince my unorthodox application of bondo I have sanded it smooth and applied two coats of the satin white . Before I apply the last coats of paint I will drill the holes for the handrails . Sometime this week I hope to make the jig for bending the handrails . There will be two , one on each end of the car .  Since the tank will be nice and white , it looks like I will have to sandblast the flat car and repaint it too .
Thanks for all your compliments and interest in my projects.  Cheers .

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@navy.seal posted:

Here's another possible paint scheme for your next project.

Tupolo milk car

Hi Bob , and thanks for all your suggestions . At one point I had 3 of the Lionel milk cars along with a bunch of other farm related flats and box cars . I sold 99% of them due to me wanting to collect standard gauge.   I’m wanting to keep my current milk car project more in lines with the 500 series that I have like simple graphics and a bright color .  With being said , I did work on the hand rails yesterday and came up with what you see here . Everything is still in a prototype stage . In two of the photos you can see the holes in the flatcar that I want it cover/hide where the stanchions once were . Least of my worries at this moment. 525C7BB5-352F-43FB-BD68-A48282467E13FF498912-7140-43CB-8CB7-939C601BCF5715466484-0473-4860-9C6A-9F352299800D0165A8E1-AFA4-4FDC-BA5B-87E4F2E6B8F648C63D3F-4C09-4384-8F2E-BDDD616B5202B1D16997-4262-4C2F-9297-2370F198EA6A

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Just a quick update on my 500 series milk car .  I sprayed another coat of bright white satin on the shell . And most importantly I started dealing with the graphics.  I had the photo I wanted to try first printed and cut out .  What I will do next is glue them onto the car and then spray a clear finish on the whole shell .  I’ve also decided that the flatcar itself should be spray painted the same color blue as the cutout .  
I am also rethinking the railing system. So I’m going to experiment on the extra shells I have first . 588418E1-B6F9-4436-846E-8A084C0F413A8CFE9D8A-9419-4F88-BF90-AA10764769A01E9445DD-F1CC-4A50-85AA-E2E9747BD003

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Progress ! I got the two trucks painted gloss black and the rest of the parts are in the tumbler as I type this .  Fingers are crossed that I don’t have to do too much cleaning up of the parts after the second round of using the different cleaning/polishing mediums . I may just get this car done before the end of February !! EEC1DE1D-0393-4887-9619-DBADB7C4131C36303635-5C99-4624-B611-FE77888D850F8F8AD4F4-5691-4F40-BA37-FBC0A974C058C03144B3-B1BF-4BEB-90CB-9DE1FFC637AB0DC72D7F-823F-4CD2-8008-5A7C8A56C85B

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And so the saga continues. Just when one thinks he’s in the home stretch,  bam ,  there’s a mess up .  I totally messed up the handrail , beyond repair , so I started over . I cut a new tank , two of them , from a small section of pipe with  22.5 degree ends . Next I rethought the car itself and decided to mimic the real milk tank car . No dome , no steps and no hand railing to mess up .  I also figured out how to hide the stanchion holes and at the same time hold the tank in place . Win win .  I just MIGHT get this project done by the end of ...A0ED877F-6B85-48D0-8104-287FA8F472486F19E42C-DD00-4E4D-912A-B6EFB21350CC0D636130-FDB1-4FCA-85B0-BDE595C355C507F78A27-2CC8-40BA-B571-A824534E61CCD6DD3773-F715-46E0-A33E-705BC46BAAF6E45ACC4F-28E6-4B53-A994-8CC8667AF9B39EEA28C6-69A5-4ECA-8931-DA0298B15620EEAAE0C7-3753-4153-AD43-D4B6D50228AD4E6710D4-5576-45D8-A9C5-D0148C7F7DAACEB077DB-DF66-4FC4-8704-B00F1F7E0919

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Getting closer to being finished . Hope I didn’t just jinx myself !   Anyway , here are a few photos of the second attempt of the 500 series milk tank car .  I’m liking version two much better .   What’s left to do is to add drawings of doors on both sides , which I will copy from some other tank cars . Possibly add two grab railings, one above each door , add Milk Tank Car graphics, clear coat it and add the break wheel stanchions .  Now along the way I had yet another idea concerning the milk tank car , I will do a test run on one of the prototypes,  it’s to add two lights behind the large milk emblems .  As Pablo Picasso once said “ I begin with an idea, and then it becomes something else .” Stay tuned for more progress reports . Cheers . 683D070C-428B-44C9-9A7C-9F107436AE1A23CD8E9A-4D37-4F4A-B743-C9FBD22E346FD8C3B99D-F45C-48F6-BEB7-2522C60210E9

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@Will posted:

I'm really enjoying following your progress on all these builds. Very inspiring.

Thanks  Will .  I feel a bit honored when I get a message like yours or from others  saying they are going to do what I have done . Wether it’s a direct copy or a variation, it’s all about  the sharing  of ideas and info .
So on that note , here is the latest update on the Milk Tank Car.  I added two grab rails to the doors .  I think this is the last of the add ons . Next up is the naming of the car .
    SERGEANTLAW FARM  Milk Tank Car. SERGEANTLAW  is the name of the family farm in Scotland and I want to bring a piece of that history to my trains .  96B6ED9B-F04E-44C3-8BBE-18E8F40EA748image

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@Will posted:

Well, I am O gauge and have been inspired by your operating milk car to try one with a pre-war 814R ( haven't started). Now I am considering a butter dish, although I may buy a Flyer Bordens and convert to Lionel latch. Has anyone switched couplers on this car?

Good evening Will .  Having two project cars going on simultaneously is half the fun LOL.  If you go back in my thread you will read that I used two different automatic milk cars .  I believe it was the 3472 car doors I used and the brown roof 36621 car for its unloader . and now I forget , I'm thinking one unloader uses the magnetic cans and the other not . Apparently there is a difference in the cans .    As for the  American Flyer butterdish car, I would think you could find one on eBay and just remove the tank and mount it on a 812 gondola car frame . That is if the butterdish car is the same length  or a little shorter .   Keep us posted when you start your project car(s) . Cheers

Nothing really new here except a photo of my slowly growing farm train .  Leading the way is the automatic milk car, illuminated poultry dispatch car , the milk tank car , stock car and caboose.   I want to add two more cars , a flat with a Ford 8 N or 9 N Tracktor  and possibly another illuminated car .  At some point I will have to start my homemade diesel switcher project to pull it . 3D296586-47A1-48DD-A986-EC29CDB0C980

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I wanted to take a break from tinkering but that idea fell flat on its face .  I just jumped right into the next 500 series farm car , the Pork Dispatch Car .  I need to see if I have any trucks in the attic with roller pickups , I need two of them for this car and another for my caboose . I prefer two pickups on any lighted cars . So here are a few photos to start with . AD7C4B50-8E0A-4D9F-B5FC-3343687B037C172C8E72-CE4D-4CB5-ACEE-A308A29FEF0E69AF2275-8CA8-4540-824F-4D748E34E0E40582A093-6DAB-4898-B483-5C7EA5C55455C71AB2C9-F6EA-4EDB-B565-6C6717E5583F69A6AF78-F8F1-41A0-9638-2D363D7C9FA46A76D012-11D0-41A8-93AB-328F9D53DF7E

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Fun! Where did you get the pigs? I'm curious why you raised the lights off the floor of the car. Seems like a lot of work for little reward. To get them more centered? Assuming the pig prints are translucent, I'm not sure you would notice a difference. But I always enjoy your projects and get inspiration from them.

image@Will posted:

Fun! Where did you get the pigs? I'm curious why you raised the lights off the floor of the car. Seems like a lot of work for little reward. To get them more centered? Assuming the pig prints are translucent, I'm not sure you would notice a difference. But I always enjoy your projects and get inspiration from them.

Good morning Will and thanks for your kind words .  First off the pigs were photo copied from the Lionel  19822. O gauge Pork Dispatch Car.  I took my car apart and photo copied two of the plastic pig panels .  As with the illuminated Poultry Car I made a few years ago I will mount the new photocopied pigs onto a   10 3/8 x 2 1/2 x 1/8 piece of plastic and then attach it to the inside of the car . 657A01D2-C783-4662-99A8-B1DA65736BA7As for the lights , I raised them off the floor because the lights are just over the washer and cotter pin that hold the truck on .  It keeps the two lights more in the center of the graphics.   Plus I like to tinker , leading up to the engine I want to scratch build . Thanks for following my projects.  

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Fourth photo update on my 500 series Pork Dispatch Car.  I cut and pasted my pig cut outs on a template that I made to match the cars cross bracing and floors . You can see at the top of the first photo how curled it became after glueing the pigs onto the paper . Next was to photocopy it and mount it to the 1/8 inch plexiglass.  Then , like the poultry dispatch car , I drilled four holes in each side of the car and plexiglass and bolted the graphics in place .  This is where the project comes to a standstill. I don’t have any trucks with roller pickups on them or any parts to do so . I’ll have to order these parts and wait till they arrive . I’m really liking how it’s turned out so far and look forward to seeing it amongst the other Farm cars .  F9FE6319-DCF2-4F91-B3B8-D75AFCFBC14AD3ED8E6B-8807-4948-AD4C-BAE673FFDD759CBBC128-1223-4FB7-AB13-96D83DB37054BC4554BA-430D-4852-A442-EC0083E8B5B2183A3165-0969-4D1C-A950-80A5BB24B5E5

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Here’s one I didn’t expect to do , adding a few extras on to an Ives 3235.  Next up is actually taking it apart and figure out why it doesn’t run .
I added two Lionel pantographs, two air tanks, a ladder and screen to the center two window openings .  I’m copying an Ives engine I saw last fall at the Allentown train show . F0289E00-5789-45D2-B00C-5DD1A1237677D454C7A6-BB77-477C-A2AF-F81AEDBBB3E04C5D267A-CF5F-4D60-8F83-9CFA6022F3D4947B2E00-6B9A-4B7D-94A9-743B4B2E5860EED61635-71C3-4815-8AA0-1A748499315C0F5DDDF5-5547-499A-80FD-E9FB02FADC55F2523FF1-D2AA-4376-A89C-A63B94518BDF

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Slowly getting back into the swing of things here .  This project has been shifted from the back burner to the front too many times to count . What it is is a Pride Lines repro of a Lionel #2 Trolley with an Ira Keeler motor fitted into a McCoy frame . For starters I had to eliminate the front and back sections of the McCoy frame because the side frame rails squeezed the wheels too much . That’s why you see the brass square stock now . With that done the motor  runs freely other wise it was like running with a brake on .  Today while quarantining from having a case of Covid I soldered  3 of the 4 steps back into place . And much to my delight I found the passengers I had bought for the trolley .  So next up is mounting the power truck/motor frame to the body . Once that is done I will disassemble it and paint it .  A500A15F-B3F8-4C81-A567-7F99BE4C5B1E17AB7027-3970-4BC5-9119-0CDA5462485D7904B6E9-EBE2-4D0F-8A51-767E4F7B8EBFBFFE84CB-25DE-4D41-A259-345B6BFF1C0A1747CA2C-48D5-4A0C-9A02-0CC7D9809BEA6A3488EC-0961-444B-B0C7-BECE2A6C70A392193B10-763D-4A5D-878B-258EA0D5185B

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Last edited by JohnnieWalker

Projects on top of projects! Here is one that I’ve had in the back of my mind for quite a few years now.  It all started when I saw a photo of an old Standard Gauge layout  that had the old rubber roadbed on it . I thought Wow ! how cool is that ?!  During my times at various train shows I would come across some old worn and torn sections with a hefty price on them .  Then I thought , if it’s so expensive, try to make it myself.  So here is my early stages of making my own rubber roadbed for standard gauge track.  First step is to make the wooden prototypes. 6A67A0DF-D4E8-4DFF-BC16-D84B6B583CE67FBB4C77-4BA4-4446-85CC-B9B2C0F7E5EB93C686F3-272D-469B-B44D-B0B879B3ED673A4948F1-FBCB-4A21-A878-DA1C7E3C3FD54B825FE7-908A-48B9-93B5-71BAC0FAA9A7imageED7329D1-F4AE-4758-AD1E-C5D26D3DBA3F15024389-321E-4780-9701-C01DDE5AFCE7B2746352-4567-4776-B0D8-E646B51C12D7imageimageimage

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Projects on top of projects! Here is one that I’ve had in the back of my mind for quite a few years now.  It all started when I saw a photo of an old Standard Gauge layout  that had the old rubber roadbed on it . I thought Wow ! how cool is that ?!  During my times at various train shows I would come across some old worn and torn sections with a hefty price on them .  Then I thought , if it’s so expensive, try to make it myself.  So here is my early stages of making my own rubber roadbed for standard gauge track.  First step is to make the wooden prototypes. 6A67A0DF-D4E8-4DFF-BC16-D84B6B583CE67FBB4C77-4BA4-4446-85CC-B9B2C0F7E5EB93C686F3-272D-469B-B44D-B0B879B3ED673A4948F1-FBCB-4A21-A878-DA1C7E3C3FD54B825FE7-908A-48B9-93B5-71BAC0FAA9A7imageED7329D1-F4AE-4758-AD1E-C5D26D3DBA3F15024389-321E-4780-9701-C01DDE5AFCE7B2746352-4567-4776-B0D8-E646B51C12D7imageimageimage

Nicely done - very convincing. 

Have you made any curved pieces yet?  I would be interested in seeing the jigs that you use.

Are you concerned about wood movement on the crossing (and curves)?

@Mallard4468 posted:

Nicely done - very convincing.

Have you made any curved pieces yet?  I would be interested in seeing the jigs that you use.

Are you concerned about wood movement on the crossing (and curves)?

Thanks for your kind words . I have not made any curves at this time , but plan on it . In fact my plan is to mold a 1/4 circle first then an 1/8 curve ( standard gauge 042) . 8 sections to make up a circle.   I don’t have any photos of a jig . What I will end up doing is drawing it out on the 1x material with a homemade protractor i have for my router .   As for the wood movement you mentioned I’m not sure what you mean.  The wood roadbed sections I posted photos of are what the , hopefully,  rubber sections will look like . I need to build a box next to fit the would prototypes . 4 sides and a bottom, with an inch surrounding the roadbed on all sides . Then I can pour the silicone over the wood roadbed.  That will eventually become my mold for making the rubber roadbed.  If this works .  Fingers crossed!!  I know this will cost some money but so will be  buying the original stuff, so why not try to make it ? The size and shapes I want are different from what the originals are .  At this point it’s still all an experiment.  An idea that is slowly taking shape . I will post photos of the curve section when I make it .  Cheers .

...As for the wood movement you mentioned I’m not sure what you mean.  The wood roadbed sections I posted photos of are what the , hopefully,  rubber sections will look like . I need to build a box next to fit the would prototypes . 4 sides and a bottom, with an inch surrounding the roadbed on all sides . Then I can pour the silicone over the wood roadbed.  That will eventually become my mold for making the rubber roadbed.  If this works .  ...

I misunderstood your process - I thought that you were planning to make all of your pieces from wood, but now I understand that you are making molds.  Since you are using solid wood (rather than plywood), the pieces will expand and contract across the grain with changes in humidity.  They may also cup or warp if one side is left unpainted.  However, if they are only being used to build molds, you might be done with them before wood movement is an issue. 

Here's an article regarding considerations for wood movement:  https://www.thisiscarpentry.co...ntent-wood-movement/

@Mallard4468 posted:

I misunderstood your process - I thought that you were planning to make all of your pieces from wood, but now I understand that you are making molds.  Since you are using solid wood (rather than plywood), the pieces will expand and contract across the grain with changes in humidity.  They may also cup or warp if one side is left unpainted.  However, if they are only being used to build molds, you might be done with them before wood movement is an issue.

Here's an article regarding considerations for wood movement:  https://www.thisiscarpentry.co...ntent-wood-movement/

As a carpenter by trade I do know about what you were referring to . Still a good article to refresh the mind .  As for the pieces of wood I’m using I’m not too worried about drastic swelling or twisting.  Famous last words LOL.  Thanks for your concern nonetheless. It’s nice to have someone looking after you making sure projects projects go smoothly.

Well it been some time since I posted any progress on my rubber roadbed. So here are some photos of what I’ve done . I do want to say , I pretty much started over with my wood prototypes, changing the design slightly.  It’s a long process that’s for sure , a lot of work and thankfully great rewards. It’s been fun and a learning experience all a long the way . The work part is multi layered, fun using my tools , a little frustrating cutting out the bow ties , gluing on the sifted quarry screenings  x2 , then 3 coating everything with oil bases marine varnish, making mold boxes , applying oil based putty on the undersides of all the wooden sections , clamping and screwing all the wooden sections into the mold boxes from the bottom , spraying and brushing a release agent onto each section X2 , then mixing a 1:1 silicone mixture-  real thoroughly !! , pour the mixture into the mold boxes from a 3 foot higher to reduce the risk of air bubbles, let it sit overnight, then de-mold.  I still have a few more sections to pour , they will have to wait due to the cost of the material. Next up is mixing the rubber and adding the pigment and pouring it into my negative molds for a finished product 🤞🤞.   More to come , stay tuned . 👍🥃
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Here are a few more photos and a list of what I have done so far. These are the negatives that are ready to be poured for a finished product. 🤞🤞.   1/4. O42 curve , 1/8. O42 curve , 1/16. O42 curve , 7 inch straight. 14 inch straight , 28 inch straight and the bow ties that will hold the sections together.  Still waiting to buy more silicone to pour 4 more molds and they are the 3 foot straight , the 6 foot straight ( I’m thinking this one may be last because of its size and the amount of silicone needed to fill the mold box .) , a 90 degree cross and a 45 degree cross .  This fall or winter I plan on making two O42 switches. IMG_6716IMG_6717IMG_6718IMG_6728IMG_6805IMG_6778IMG_6808

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One more post got today . Here are a few photos of the crosses . To help cut the cost down , the silicone is not cheap, I cut filler blocks to screw into the mold boxes .  The 43 degree cross photo is an old photo and different blocks were added . In fact the 45 degree cross will have 6 filler blocks added and the 90 degree cross will have  4 curved blocks added .  You can see the  filler blocks in the last photo .  Thanks for viewing and stay tuned for updates. IMG_6903IMG_6901IMG_6804

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A little update on my rubber roadbed project.  I got the “filler” blocks screwed into the mold boxes belonging to the two crosses . One more thing checked off the To Do List . I need to purchase some more silicone then I can pour these two and the 3 foot section.  Next step in this process is to figure out the pigment ratio for the rubber . Looks like I’ll be calling the rep for some advice. IMG_6931IMG_6932

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  • IMG_6931: Standard gauge 45 degree cross
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A little update on my rubber roadbed project.  I got the “filler” blocks screwed into the mold boxes belonging to the two crosses . One more thing checked off the To Do List . I need to purchase some more silicone then I can pour these two and the 3 foot section.  Next step in this process is to figure out the pigment ratio for the rubber . Looks like I’ll be calling the rep for some advice. IMG_6931IMG_6932

I recall seeing something like this at the SGMA breakfast at York in April - was it yours?  If so, I'd like to suggest that you ask the SGMA organizers - @Jim Waterman, @SGMA1 - if you could do a brief presentation at the breakfast.

That was me 👍.  I was hoping to have at least one finished section to take to the meeting this coming October.  Right now my biggest hurdle is mixing the two part rubber solutions and pigment. I just finished sending an email to the one of the reps of the company that  I got my supplies from asking for some guidance. I will be bringing the molds and maybe one or two of the prototypes with me to “show & tell “ .  With my work load and getting ready to travel to Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🥃🚂 next week my play time is very limited for this project.  I’m hoping to hear back from the rep real soon with his thoughts and suggestions.  Fingers crossed and stay tuned .
Thanks for your interest 👍👍

Did some guess work yesterday afternoon , did I have enough of parts A&B to pour the 90 degree cross ? Yes , and it was just enough, I used Every last drop to fill the mold box ! This evening I was able to de-mold it and add it to the rest of the molds .  I’m hoping to pour the grey rubber soon after I return from vacation.  The one photo is a piece of grey composite decking , the color I’m shooting for when I mix the pigment in the rubber .  Stay tuned. IMG_6983IMG_6984IMG_6985IMG_6986IMG_6987

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An update on my Standard Gauge roadbed project, 10-13-2032 . Being that this is all new to me ( a carpenter by trade ) I’m taking this project at a slow pace, the materials are not cheap. My main goal is to have some finished pieces for a Show & Tell at this years Fall York Standard Gauge meeting and to have a finished loop for around this years Christmas tree . By the look of things I will have to buy another “Kit” to achieve my goals.  This is quite a learning process and I would like to thank Kirk Lindbig of USA TRACK for his input and encouragement.  Please stay tuned for updates and thanks to all who are interested in my projects. Cheers IMG_7645IMG_7646IMG_7647IMG_7648IMG_7649IMG_7650IMG_7651

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imageThanks guys  ! It’s been an adventure, from the initial idea to this stage , and still always to go .  As for an article to submit, I have given it some thought. I wrote an article back in the late 90s about a live catenary system I built for my Bowser trolley , never to be sent in . Came across it not that long ago . Brought back fond memories. Sorry I digress.  As for writing an article it will have to wait until my initial goal is met and to see what kind of response or feedback I get at York .  Thanks for your interest and suggestions they sure make the project a little more exciting.

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Well here it is , the time between York and Christmas and the push is on to get my Christmas loop done ( the rubber roadbed project )  I went and purchased more silicone, for the molds themselves and more rubber for the finished product. Yesterday I was able to pour the 45 degree cross and the 3’ straight silicone molds . That will be it for a while for the mold making , now it’s time to focus on the pouring of the rubber .  Later today I will de mold what I poured yesterday afternoon.  IMG_6931IMG_6560IMG_7742IMG_7744IMG_7743

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Here’s a little side project that I’m working on besides the rubber roadbed. It’s another car for my farm train . I picked up a tractor and plow at Rough & Tumble ( a steam show/event held in Kinnzer PENN each August, featuring steam tractors and other antique vehicles and farm machinery) . Anyway I picked up a 514 box car and a 511 flat car at York this past show ($25.00 for the two of them) and the Tracktor and plow are a perfect fit for the flatcar . Just need to make some wheel chocks and secure them to the car . IMG_7746IMG_7747IMG_7748IMG_7749IMG_7750

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Rubber roadbed project update . I had enough of the rubber left to pour three more pieces and that is the end of the rubber for now . I will resume sometime IMG_7907IMG_7908in the new year after I save some money for another kit .  I have what I was originally planning on and look forward to setting up my loop at Christmas time. The loop photo is what I’m taking to set up around my brothers tree . I just need to cut out a notch for the power lock on and an other for my automatic crossing signal man . So looking forward to seeing the roadbed in use !  Cheers

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Something a little different to share tonight. It’s my 45 gateman that I decided to put a red LED light inside the man’s lantern . I JB welded the LED wires to the back of the gateman’s arm and also made his arm fixed with a slight forward position. I need to paint it . The way I drilled out the lantern it left me with two parts , the lantern itself and then its base . This way I could glue the base onto the bottom of the LED and have a reasonable looking lantern .  Two solder joints and a new spring made my $10.00 gateman a great deal .  I apologize for the shaky videos I post , I have a tremor and sometimes it gets in the way of making a steady video.

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45 gateman project

Something a little different to share tonight. It’s my 45 gateman that I decided to put a red LED light inside the man’s lantern . I JB welded the LED wires to the back of the gateman’s arm and also made his arm fixed with a slight forward position. I need to paint it . The way I drilled out the lantern it left me with two parts , the lantern itself and then its base . This way I could glue the base onto the bottom of the LED and have a reasonable looking lantern .  Two solder joints and a new spring made my $10.00 gateman a great deal .  I apologize for the shaky videos I post , I have a tremor and sometimes it gets in the way of making a steady video.

Nice touch on an old accessory.  Did you use an LED that includes the resistor, or did you have to hide a resistor somewhere?

Thanks for the compliment, greatly appreciated 👍. No resistor . I bought 10 red light pre wired 12v  5mm bulbs on eBay and just wired it up . My fingers are crossed that that’s all I needed to do.  

If it didn't blow right away, then I expect that you'll be ok. 

I already have enough items on the to-do list - you are a bad influence and my mom says I shouldn't play with you anymore.

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