Anyone shorten gap on new Cab Forward?

I don't own one, so I probably cannot help you.  But I went looking for that thread with some really good photos to see why I missed the gap, and couldn't find it.

The thing looks to me like an excellent scale model - the only flaws I noted outside of flanges and couplers was the lousy job they did of rods and valve gear.  I already have too many Cab Forwards, but if one of these beauties were to fall into my hands I would replace all rods with lost wax nickel silver (Stevenson has the masters) and all wheels/tires with scale.

Thank you for the info; I'm disappointed to learn that the valve gear is not correct and the wheel/tire size is not correct (is this because it's a 3 rail model) or did Lionel just get the wheel diameter wrong. Just received this model also.

Has anyone got these situation right?

I have a couple of 3 rail Sunset Cab Forward models: an AM-2 which is a beauty and a grey boiler AC-4.  Can you comment on these?

thank you

OK, I have to ask - and I do not own one one of these, nor do I intend to buy one, am not bothered by the larger hi-rail flanges, and have no dog in this fight:

What, in heaven's name, is "wrong" with the valve gear and rods on this model? I do not own the model nor have my cab-forward book handy. What does being "lost-wax nickel silver" (yes, I know what that means) have to do with anything?

I guess if you are not "into" steam locomotives, and accurate models of them, then I would not even attempt to answer your question/statement.

Again, I don't have a CF but I have shortened a few drawbars on tetherless Lionel's.   I shorten the engine's drawbar, leaving the tender's as is.   With the drawbar removed, pattern a new drawbar following the old one's dimensions.   Determine how much shorter you can modify it without causing interference and slowly test run the results.  Be ready to tweek the dimensions or maybe even starting from square 1 to get the best results.  A nice evening spent at the bench.

Bruce

I don't have this engine but just checked the drawbar used on the tender and it looks pretty standard. I have shortened many similar drawbars. I use a milling machine and make a slot on one side of the drawbar half the thickness and as wide as the distance I want to shorten the drawbar by. eg, 3/8" shorter I use a 3/8" diameter milling cutter. Then flip it over, move it by the width of the cutter and remove half the thickness. Then solder the two pieces together in a lap joint.

I realize most here don't have Bridgeports but you could accomplish the same thing by cutting the draw bar and overlapping the two ends the amount you want to shorten it by and solder it together after removing the blueing. The shrink wrap will hide the joint.

Same technique done on an engine drawbar.

First cut:

Second cut:

Before soldering:

After soldering:

Finished and compared to an original:

Pete

Pete,

You did a great job!  I will do my best. thanks for the insight and pics.  

FWIW, I do not know what is "wrong" with the valve gear and rods of this model/toy.  I am sure if I knew how factually inaccurate this model/toy is then I would find playing with a million times less fun.  Ignorance is bliss......and incredible sound sets, voluminous smoke output, whistle steam, smooth Legacy acceleration and labor EFX also help me achieve toy train bliss! 

I did not mean to offend anyone.  I take it back - the valve gear and rods are perfectly fine for what they are.  When I do rods I make a master that has a clevised articulating area, and I carve a flute in one side so I can have slab or I beam rods.  Then I have them cast in nickel silver.

That is what I have done for the FEF - the real one has tapered I beam rods.

I did not mean the drivers were not the correct diameter - they are probably ok.  When I say "scale" what I mean is a tread a bit closer to the real profile.

This new Lionel cab forward, from the photos, is truly a nice model.  Those of you with the bucks are truly lucky.

You cannot tell from the photo, but the rods on this are from my patterns, as are the tender trucks.  Domes are Pearce/Stevenson, drivers are USH, and the rest is from the local metal mart.

Bruce,

What did you do about the infrared sensor on the engine side?

Dave