Best Transformer For Conventional Use?

ADCX Rob - Yes you are correct on the rated wattage for the Power Chief-my mistake, sorry.

John
TCA

Z-1000 to be sure.

The problem with the Z-1000 is that it has a "chopped" sine wave output.
Not all conventional control electronics will work with it eg. early WEAVER QSI
equipped engines.

If you have engines with electronics from the late eighties or early nineties, the Z-4000 with the remote is tough tobeat.

Forgive me if this information is on here and I've missed it, but what is the starting voltage on the throttles of the Z-4000? I was told that it's programmable - is that true?

I run 6 trains on my medium sized layout. Two trains are run in the command mode of DCS and TMCC off of one Z4000. I have another Z4000 which I primarily use for running accessories.

I'm using three MTH Z750 transformers to run conventional engines and one small Lionel 40 watt transformer to run a small O27 oval around a village.

The Z750's are the earlier MTH transformers that were upgraded to the Z1000 units. They also have the built in circuit breaker and have worked perfectly for me for over 10 years.

If I ever needed to replace the Z750 transformers I would upgrade to the Z1000 models.

Steve Tapper

I use an MRC PPD with the gauges. It's plenty powerful enough, and the gauges are really nice to have. The MRC PPD also lets you know immediately if there is a wheel off the track at startup. The throttle becomes hard to advance. If you don't take that hint, the circuit breaker gives you the next one very quickly. It handles modern sound systems well, but finds post war whistles to be a challenge at times.

Ginsaw,
To each their own. I've been running two prewar Z type, two TW's & two KW's without problems. With prewar and postwar units make sure they are fully serviced BEFORE you use them. My two newer Z4K's are nice units as well. I'm not running any electronics so they are just pretty to look at.
God Bless,

Thanks, Cab. By the way, you were awesome in The Blues Brothers.

quote:

Originally posted by chuck:

quote:

ROW or Z4000 by MTH, either/or, hands down.

You can only run TWO trains with a Z-4000 and you can buy four Z-1000's for less money (which would allow you tun run FOUR trains).

Agreed... and if something breaks or stops working on one of your 4 z1000s, you still have three transfomers that work and only a $75 replacement coast for the broken one.
If all you have is one z4000 and your z4000 breaks, you are at a stand still till you cough up $300 to replace it.

Sure wish I saw this posting BEFORE I bought 3 KW's
All three are currently being shipped and will be combined with my existing KW, a 1033 and 2 American flyers for my layout.
I will have 4 KW's to run 6 trains with reserve.
Most of my trains were purchased in the 1990's, Williams, MTH, Atlas, Lionel.
Will I be OK with these and adding some exterior breakers?
I am only interested in running my trains in conventional mode.

I like the MTH Z4000 and the Z1000's.They will operate everything in conventional you throw at them.Personally,I use two Z4000's on my large test layout.I have DCS and Legacy working together on all 4 loops.

Ricky

quote:

The problem with the Z-1000 is that it has a "chopped" sine wave output.
Not all conventional control electronics will work with it eg. early WEAVER QSI
equipped engines.

Charlie, I haven't see anything here yet that did NOT work great with the Z-1000. From MTH to Lionel CC, Williams and post war. In fact, the Z-1000 runs all my trains better and smoother than any of my Post war transformers.It will sound post war whistles better than any post war transformers I have. I have seen Z-4000's that would not work the horn/bell on newer Lionel CC engines.
Rob

All good possibilities have been covered here, but I just want to throw my hat in the ring for the MRC Dual Pure Power:

(1) Great price with discounts, making it available for about $250

(2) Pure sinewave output, meaning it runs ALL locomotives without problems

(3) Unmatched service, if needed, as attested to by many on other threads

As far as blowing the whistle on post-war locos, you can do what I did, even back in the post-war period -- crank up the voltage slightly, simultaneously with pressing the whistle button. This pretty much cancels out the slowing down effect of the whistle taking some small additional voltage.

paul m.

quote:

As far as blowing the whistle on post-war locos, you can do what I did, even back in the post-war period -- crank up the voltage slightly, simultaneously with pressing the whistle button. This pretty much cancels out the slowing down effect of the whistle taking some small additional voltage.

One positive thing I can say about using either the 135 watt ZWC or its stable mate, the 180 watt New ZW, is that in conventional running the whistle/horn and bell controls work real well without doing anything extra. That's on all engines from PreWar to PostWar to modern.

But, I have no MTH engines to try with them, although I don't know why that wouldn't be OK too.

Once you turn on the Command Base the manual buttons for whistle/bell cut out and you have to work the whistle/bell using the Cab-1.

Gentlemen,
Its the Z4K and the ZW for me, and a couple of each, the old KW works well also on medium sized conventional layouts. I never under power my layouts. Have even Retro fit the old ZW's & KW
for banana plugs.
PCRR/Dave

quote:

Originally posted by Tiffany:
Hello guys and gals........
if the Z1000 had horns and tail then i would call it ugly LOL. I never had any trouble with it so far so i guess its worth more than its weight in gold !!!!!
the woman who loves toy trains
Tiffany

Ugly is in the eye of the beholder. Love my Z-1000's!

Hello Dewey Trogdon,

Thanks for your encouragement.

When I read your posting I see two thigns:

1 The KW will need breakers for INPUT (110V)

2 TVS for output on each circuit/

Correct or confused?

Thank you!!

opticsguy
No, the breaker or fuse you install to protect your transformer is located on the low voltage output or secondary side of the KW that connects to the center rail of your track. [The 120 volt input side is protected by a breaker located in the household panel that controls the household circuit and receptacle your KWs or power strip is plugged in to. You don't want to mess with the 120 volt side].

Clarification:
On a 3-rail o-gauge layout a circuit breaker or fuse protects your transformer against overcurent surges from a derailment or other shorting of the circuit or rails on the layout.

A TVS [Transient Voltage Suppressor]protects your locomotive's electronics and the very small,fragile wiring against Voltage Spikes [voltage spikes are generated from the transformer--they do not normally trip breakers or blow fuses].

So, breakers or fuses installed on the secondary side[output-to-track]of your transformer protect the tranformer itself from overcurrent surge. The TVS protects your ontrack equipment from voltage spikes.

A circuit breaker or fuse holder is wired inline on each of the Hot wires extended from your transformer binding posts out to center rail.

The TVS is wired accross the line between your Hot and Common transformer posts or some other place in the wire run such as at a terminal strip.
The TVS is wired like a short but will not act as a short, is simply clamps down on voltage spikes.

Thank you, since this is off topic for this subject "What is Best Transformer" Maybe I should start a new thread for protecting a KW transformer and the train electronics. I do need a lot more information. Greenberg's book on wiring does not cover these advanced concepts. I will need to know what to buy and a more accurate wire diagram.

Opticsguy,
Purchase Barrys Book Vol2 and the Video Guide to DCS, both these formats have the information you are going to need.
PCRR/Dave