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If you want your first release U33c and/or first release SD70ACe engines to run better on layouts with less than perfect track work and/or cross-overs and certain switches here's what worked for me in both cases.  Prior to these measures both types of engines had their sounds cut out or stall unpredictably on our club layout (used and abused Gilbert AF track, cross-overs, switches), but both ran without issue on my home layout (S-Trax).  Both run fine now no matter where. 

 

First release U33c - order two "without magnet" wheel sets 6408142051 at Lionel.com in their parts section. They cost $6.20 each. On the front truck remove the half wide pulmor band and replace it with the full-wide band from the opposite wheel.  Remove the now bare (formerly full-width pulmor band clad) wheel by twisting it off the axle with your hand.  Replace it with the solid steel counterpart from one of the replacement wheel sets.  Repeat this for the rear truck.  Reassemble and run to your hearts content no matter track conditions.  You just vastly increased the engine's railhead contact and continuity.  

 

First release 70ACe - do the same as above, but use the remaining steel wheels on the U33c wheel sets you already purchased.  Those, however, you will need a gear/wheel puller to remove.  Same too for the pulmor wheels on the SD that you are going to replace with the solid steel leftovers from above.  

 

I did the above procedure to my SP U33c and my BNSF SD70ACe and both work interruption-free at home on my layout as before, but also now at shows on our club AF track based modular layout where previously I thought I'd never enjoy running them.  I haven't noticed any difference in pulling power.  In fact now, without parallel pulmors contending with each other, I'd say both engines run smoother at slow speeds through curves.  You know, many Gilbert twin-motor PA's have diagonally opposite pulmors and they are often some of the smoothest running.

 

Those of you with latter release U33c's and SD70ACe's don't have any of this to worry about.  Lionel refined both to run without interruption. In the case of the U33c the center wheels were flanged and in both cases I suspect Lionel added some capacitance to their circuitry to make them less sensitive to momentary current flow interruptions. 

 

Have fun.

 

Run 'em if you got 'em.

They're trains, not trophies.

Last edited by Sgaugian
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Originally Posted by Sgaugian:
 
I have the SD70ACe and had contacted Lionel about the problem you mentioned. At that time I was told no wheel set were available, I would have to purchase a power truck and cannibalize it. Thank you for this info, I am heading for the Lionel site now.
Ray

If you want your first release U33c and/or first release SD70ACe engines to run better on layouts with less than perfect track work and/or cross-overs and certain switches here's what worked for me in both cases.  Prior to these measures both types of engines had their sounds cut out or stall unpredictably on our club layout (used and abused Gilbert AF track, cross-overs, switches), but both ran without issue on my home layout (S-Trax).  Both run fine now no matter where. 

 

First release U33c - order two "without magnet" wheel sets 6408142051 at Lionel.com in their parts section. They cost $6.20 each. On the front truck remove the half wide pulmor band and replace it with the full-wide band from the opposite wheel.  Remove the now bare (formerly full-width pulmor band clad) wheel by twisting it off the axle with your hand.  Replace it with the solid steel counterpart from one of the replacement wheel sets.  Repeat this for the rear truck.  Reassemble and run to your hearts content no matter track conditions.  You just vastly increased the engine's railhead contact and continuity.  

 

First release 70ACe - do the same as above, but use the remaining steel wheels on the U33c wheel sets you already purchased.  Those, however, you will need a gear/wheel puller to remove.  Same too for the pulmor wheels on the SD that you are going to replace with the solid steel leftovers from above.  

 

I did the above procedure to my SP U33c and my BNSF SD70ACe and both work interruption-free at home on my layout as before, but also now at shows on our club AF track based modular layout where previously I thought I'd never enjoy running them.  I haven't noticed any difference in pulling power.  In fact now, without parallel pulmors contending with each other, I'd say both engines run smoother at slow speeds through curves.  You know, many Gilbert twin-motor PA's have diagonally opposite pulmors and they are often some of the smoothest running.

 

Those of you with latter release U33c's and SD70ACe's don't have any of this to worry about.  Lionel refined both to run without interruption. In the case of the U33c the center wheels were flanged and in both cases I suspect Lionel added some capacitance to their circuitry to make them less sensitive to momentary current flow interruptions. 

 

Have fun.

 

Run 'em if you got 'em.

They're trains, not trophies.

 

Hi Sgaugian,

 

"Remove the now bare (formerly full-width pulmor band clad) wheel by twisting it off the axle with your hand.  Replace it with the solid steel counterpart from one of the replacement wheel sets."

 

I have purchased the wheel sets you suggested. First issue U33's are to be modified, as per your instructions. If you could, would you clarify what you mean by "twisting it off the axle with your hand". My sample will not budge by hand. Does one require a wheel puller or other tools for gripping the axle and wheel for this step?

 

Thanks in advance for your suggestion and help.

 

Bob 

Bob,

The wheel on the end of the axle without the gear will pull off if you grab it with your hand, twist, and pull.  IOW, the right wheel in the attached photo.  The wheel on the gear end of the axle does require a wheel/gear puller to remove it, and that is used to upgrade an early run AF SD70ACe in a similar fashion.  Hope that helps.  

 

BTW - I see now where this wheel set is no longer available from Lionel.  I hope that's not from anyone hoarding these to sell them at marked-up prices.  Not inferring that it was you Bob, but anyone.  Wouldn't be the first time.  Sucks anytime it happens.  I mean really.  To those who can't help themselves, get a life.    

 

AF U33c wheel set w-o magnet

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Images (1)
  • AF U33c wheel set w-o magnet: Twist and pull the right wheel off.  Use a puller on the left one.

My friend and I have now refitted our two U33's as per Sgaugian's instructions posted above. My U33C generally ran pretty well, but my friend's had a severe case of the herky-gerkies on Gilbert track. Both engines now run without any difficulties on Gilbert track and turnouts. One may still need to keep an eye on track cleanliness. The wheels on our 640-8142-051 sets would not twist off by hand, but if one starts the process of removal by tapping on the end of the axle with a small diameter nail driver, they are easily removed. 

 

I bought just enough wheel sets to retrofit our two engines. I do not believe that there is any great conspiracy about the wheel set availability. Lionel obtains its spare parts by disassembling finished pieces and, then, carefully bagging and inventorying the cannibalized parts. As a consequence, the supply was likely to be limited to start with.

 

Thanks, Sgaugian, for passing along this procedure for this important retrofit. 

 

Bob

Sgaugian - I write the Roundhouse for the S Gaugian Magazine.  I have just followed the instrctions to complete this proceedure on my two U33 and two SD70s.  It worked fine and I like to write about this is a subject for my column.  Of course I will credit you and this website for finding out about it.  

 

I would like to make contact with you so I can credit you by name.  contact me at billstrains@aol.com please.

 

Thanks

I met with Lioenl at York and discussed the need for more solid wheels to fix this issue.  My contact was Matt Ashiba, Director of Product Planning.  He said he would look into it.  I also sent him the message from Sgaugian that started this conversation.

 

I did think of a sourse for the wheels today and checked it out.  The non powered units of these engines have 12 solid wheels.  I looked at my UP SD70 non powered unit to be sure.  So there is a souce for wheels for you guys that couldn't get the wheels from Lionel before they were gone who also happened to have a non powered locomotive.

Just thought I'd follow-up on this with my test runs of my recently purchased AF LV ES44ac on our club (less than perfect track work) layout.  It ran without any interruptions to the sound system or any stalling.  It ran fine.  This engine, knock on wood, runs and ran well without modification out-of-the box even under less than ideal conditions.  First one, but finally.  The closest to this otherwise so far was the N&W Y3 which only "required" me to improve its smoke production.  Otherwise flawless also.  Early SD70 and U33c units, Challengers, and Big Boy -- a different story, at least for me, but now enjoy running all of them now too.  Thanks Lionel for providing new motive power and improving them along the way.  

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