Brand New to trains

Welcome DK.

 

Since you're  brand-new to the hobby, I'd recommend reading everything you can, on the net and on printed pages, before going much further with your 242.  PW Lionel locomotives ("early Sixties" still qualifies as "postwar") are very rugged, but it's still possible to unwittingly do damage that you'll regret later.  You might start here:

 

http://www.justtrains.com/Service/maint-main.asp

 

As for the rusted trucks, I always use a bronze brush (manual, not chucked in a power tool) to remove the rust, followed by cold gun bluing (applied according to instructions), then a light coating of oil.  I remove crud from the wheels by scraping with a small screwdriver, followed by Q-tips moistened with alcohol.

 

If the track is badly rusted, I wouldn't bother trying to rehabilitate it, myself.  New 027 track isn't horribly expensive, and it'll save you a lot of work.

 

I wish you the enjoyment of the hobby!

Welcome to the Forum DK81!  I am not all that knowledgeable about Post War locomotives, but there are many on this forum who are and I am sure some will answer your call.  There may be other solutions for removing the rust from the track, but it can be remove using sandpaper.  I wouldn't use anything more course than what is absolutely necessary to do the job.  After you have removed the rust, you can use an extremely fine grit (1000 or 1200 grit) paper to polish up the rails.  I think Balshis is right that if your track is badly rusted and you are anxious to get things running you may want to consider replacing it.  Again, welcome to the Forum.  Bo        

DK81, welcome to the forum!

 

Here is a great resource you should become familiar with:

 

http://thortrains.net/

 

Thor Shiel has numerous articles on 3-rail trains that will get you started on cleaning, lubricating and running your items. Enjoy!! 

 

Thanks guys!  I will post pics when I finished cleaning them up!

I haven't looked up those sites that others mentioned, but to answer your question about rehabbing your track:  No, it's not necessary to get it all sparkling clean for it to operate. Just clean the top surface of each rail is much as possible (some pitting won't hurt - Lionel engines are very forgiving).  Shine the pins and twist a pin into each hole a few times.  If the pin/hole fit is sloppy it is well to tighten it up with needlenose pliers.  Good luck, and have fun. 

I just found a great train store here in NJ (Mountain Lakes) on my lunch hour.  Those guys told me to bring in my train tomorrow and they will lube it up and take a look at it.  Just from hanging out in the store for 20 minutes I realized that this is going to be my new hobby.  I was amazed at how much stuff they had and how busy the store was!  I didn't know model railroading was as big as it is!

 

Well, hey, welcome then.  There are so many ways you can go with the trains.  It's great!

DK, welcome to the forum and to your new hobby.  It is a wonderful hobby to be part of.  I hope you enjoy it.

Make sure you have LOTS of cash with you at Mountain Lakes store! LOL! They ain't cheap. If your track is rusty and doesn't clean up easily, toss it and buy new, or get some good used track at a train show. Do not use steel wool(ever) or sand paper on your track. Try a green meanie kitchen scrub pad and follow up with alcohol and a cotton rag. Train stores sell a "Bright boy" rubberized pad for cleaning track.

Rob

If the 242 is like it's cousin the 235 scout engine, you may want to spend money on getting it repaired by a pro.

As for the track, if it is pitted replace it! Pitted track causes derailments.

Sandpaper is best to remove stubborn rust, about 600 grain.

 

Lee F.

never use simple green.....

Save yourself a headache and get some new track. oil the wheel axles where they contact any metal, no to much. Good luck, hopefully you will get bitten.

John

Welcome to the hobby!  Wanted to echo the suggestion to just do away with the existing track.  A nice oval of shiny new 027 can be had for ~$20 and you don't have to worry about track issues affecting performance.

 

You absolutely do not have to spend a lot of money to enjoy this hobby.  Secondhand locos and rolling stock can be had for peanuts on the secondary market.

 

Welcome to the club! Have Fun!

 

Mike R

Welcome... There is a Train Show this Sun Dec.2 In Dover NJ.http://www.dovertrainshow.com/

It would be a good place to start .

I, too, would strongly recommend starting with new track.  There are several types available, including current examples of the track you already have.

Welcome to the hobby and this forum!

 

Model railroading has much to offer ... it can be very addictive. So many options. I've had many varied interests in life, but always came home to my trains, too.

 

The Train Station in Mountain Lakes has been there for 40 years I think. They know old trains .... they do alot of work on them, and also sell them. They are a good place to ask questions ... in addition to all the great people on these OGR forums

DK81  Welcome.

You're in for an amazing ride.

 

Scrapiron

DK81

Welcome, it's easy to get carried away reading on this site, but so much fun.

Larry

Welcome. I love trains. O gauge is kind of like an enema for my bank account. 

 

Have fun!

Welcome.

As has already been suggested, your 242 locomotive is a member of the Lionel Scout family. I happen to like scouts, and service them with some regularity. A few thoughts:

 

The scout locomotives have two hollow collector shoes on the bottom of the motor case. For the best operation, it is important that these shoes (rollers) be clean. I like to slip a qtip shaft inside each hollow shoe (you'll need to bend the qtip) and carefully clean it. For dirt and grime, I use mineral spirits. For heavy dirt, a fiberglass eraser, wire brush, or fine sandpaper is OK. If you use one of these, be certain to wipe away the reside with a qtip or rag moistened with mineral sprrits.
Depending on your technique, you may have to turn the roller by hand, or stop the roller from turning.

 

Because of the operational characteristics of these collector shoes, it might be best to stay with 027 track, or O track. The shoes may have problems with other track systems. Perhaps someone with experience running scouts over some of the other track systems could comment.

 

A common characteristic of these engines, is that sometimes they get stuck and will not run. To solve this, set the power to off, and flip the little fiber switch lever on the top of the engine back and forth several times. Some folks just leave the engine locked in forward (lever up).

 

I like the writeup that was linked earlier in this thread, but I do not think it covers Lionel Scouts. Basic service is something anybody handy should be able to do. However, an extensive service is best left to someone who is familar with the engine, and has the proper tools. This is because the drive wheels must be removed to open up the motor housing. That written, there is a very good chance your engine does not require the extensive service.

 

Basic service can be done.

I think this message is long enough.

If someone does not beat me to it, I will post more about doing this basic service on a scout motor.

Normally, I would refer you to an online resource to see the original Lionel factory service manual pages for your locomotive. Currently that site is down, so I am posting some material here.

There are several variations of the scout motor / locomotive. This material is close, but not exact.

First, there are two pages on the 1050/1060 locomotive. These pages show the basic assembly of the scouts that were made in the 1960s. Note that these engines have a modified motor that only runs forward. I beleive your engine reverses. These drawings should show how to remove the motor from the body. The front of the motor is held in place by the front bracket (two screws). The rear of the motor is held by a pin that runs across the opening of the body. One end of the pin is splined. I like to use a pin punch to drive out the pin. I drive it out from the plain end. If you look closely at the edges of hole in each side, you should be able to see which one has the splined (ridged) end. Later when reinserting the pin, I like to insert it into the hole with the ridges, plain end first. When the splines reach the hole, I make certain the splines are aligned with the ridges in the hole, and push in the pin the rest of the way. If they are aligned, it will not take much force.

More to come.

 

 

Here's my 224 after complete overhaul and paint.  It needed a new smoke box, hand rail,bell, valve rods, brushes and springs, e-unit, and lubrication.  Now its a new engine.

 

You are lucky to have such a great train store nearby. Classic Toy Trains magazine did a 5 page article on them in the November issue. I'd like to visit on one of my visits to my mother in Basking Ridge. In the meantime, I've got N.Smith trains a few miles away.

 

Wait until you start attending train shows and meets (especially the TCA York Meet)...

 

Welcome aboard!

 

Andy

 

 "I didn't know model railroading was as big as it is!"

It's bigger than the "Beatles"

Below you will find five more pages from the Lionel factory Service manual. These pages date back to 1951. Some of the details will be different from your locomotive, but the basics are the same. I guess the most notable mechanical difference will be in the brushes and brush holders. Lionel changed the diameter of the brushes, so these part numbers are different. And the fasteners that hold the brush holder cover plate will be different.

But the basic description is good, and the service tips are good. I have just a little to add. Pay special attention to the section on page two where they describe how to re-install the brush holders.

 

I like to lubricate the armature bearing directly, bypassing the oil wick. In order to do this, the brush holders and brushes must be removed.

I use a fine tipped needlepoint oiler to put one or two drops of oil on the bearing that is centered between the opening for the brushes. There is a bearing on the opposite side that also will need a drop or two of oil. Be careful to only apply a small amount. Too much oil will collect dust, dirt, and grit, ultimately fouling the motor, and perhaps spoiling the brushes. (but new ones are available).

 

The good news is that I have found that the brushes in a scout motor rarely need replacing. I believe that this is because few people tried to lubricate that bearing directly (remember, use very little oil there).

While you are in there, moisten a qtip with some mineral spirits, and gently push the qtip into one of the holes where the brushes go. Turn the wheels to spin the armature, cleaning the surface of the contact plate (commutator). Reaching through the hole with a toothpick, clean out any gunk in the slot between each metal segment.

Clean the insides of each brush hold with a qtip moistened with mineral spirits. If the qtip will not fit, use a folded pipe cleaner.

(whenever using qtips or pipe cleaners, be careful not to leave any fuzzies behind)

(more to follow)

(cont)

I like to polish the metal segments on the outsides of the brush holders with a fiberglass burnishing tool, as well as the drum contact springs.

If the brushes don't look greasy, I think I would suggest just leaving them alone.

I usually gently wipe them across a strip of fine sandpaper to expose a fresh surface.

When I do this, I am looking to only remove a bit of material.

 

Be careful to match the instructions and picture on page two when reassembling the brush housing.

 

I would also put a drop of oil on the gear shafts, and a bit of grease on the gears.

(when you oil the shaft closest to the armature, you have to put the oil inbetween the gear and the shaft. The end fits tightly into the plastic. Oil put on the end will not make its way to the gear)

 

If anybody has tips on getting some lubricant to the axles, I would like to read about it.
I usually either remove the wheels, and grease the cast in axle bearings with labelle 106 grease, or partially remove the wheels, and use a needlepoint oiler to get some oil on the exposed axle. (I have the special tools to do this).

 

Remember, too much lubricant is almost as bad as no lubricant.

 

Here are the pages.

 

Thanks a lot BLT!  The train show would have passed me right by and I would've been annoyed to have missed it because its literally 7 miles away from me.  I'll be there with a wad of cash and ready to purchase some new track and some cleaning materials.

 

 

 

I really liked the store and the guys in there seem very nice and knowledgeable.

Wow! Thank you for all of this info C.W.,  I really appreciate it.  At this time a lot of this is over my head  but I plan to keep reading up on it and learning to do things as I go along.  Your info is very helpful and will be put to good use.

I have a chance to buy a 152 Engine from my cousin for $75.  He said it is a great runner.  Does this seem like a good deal?

looks good!  Mine is pretty rough, I've cleaned the wheels and and got all the dust and grime off,  I plan to open it up tonight and see what it looks like inside.

Last night I cleaned a loop of the old track so that I could test my engine.  It ran very sluggish and needed a little push to get it going. I just brought my 242 to the train store and they tested it on their track and it ran like a champ.  So thank you to all of you that advised me to get new track because that seemed to make all of the difference.  I'll look for new track at the train show this Sunday.

DK81 Send me a email to day if you have time. I don't live to far from you or Dover. 

blt2go(at)hotmail.com I'm going to try to make it to Dover too.

Sorry Brad, I never checked this thread before I went to Dover.  Had a great time there though!  Maybe I'll meet you at the next one.

So I have gotten a little carried away with this new hobby of mine.  I've already bought a 2037 smoking unit with mangetraction (because the 242 I bought just wasn't cutting it) and I also bought a 252 Pre-War set.

 

I'm loving it!

And now you have the bug.

Be careful, it can run into some serious money.

 

That said, WELCOME to the madness  

I now have thousands of dollars in trains sitting on my crappy basement layout all purchased in only about 5 years. Many do not fit my theme and get low usage now. But I had fun finding them! 

I definitely have the bug!  My problem is that I live in an apartment, so I don't even have room for a layout.

It sounds as though you have now developed a classic case of the train bug. There is no known cure, and you will spend the rest of your (,hopefully long,) life very happy, but probably poor. 

This forum provides an excellent self-help support group for fellow sufferers. We are pleased to be able to welcome you aboard.