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Put in a 6A bridge rectifier.  The AC pins labeled with the ~ sign go to the track and wheels.  The + and - go to the motor.  If you want the option of a manual reverse, find a spot for a DPDT switch with crossover wiring to reverse the polarity to the motor.  In some cases, the AC input is actually labeled AC as in this example.

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Are you doing this because the electronics is broken?  If you're going to toss the electronics, you can probably extract the bridge rectifier from it which is more than likely perfectly functional...then do what GRJ says.

OTOH, if the electronics is functional...or even partially functional...it might still function as a basic electronic reversing unit (FWD-NEUTRAL-REV-NEUTRAL).  And if you have a train transformer with Bell and Whistle control you might be able to lock the engine in FWD (or REV).  If you can configure the engine as such, you can disconnect the harness wiring going to the lights, couplers, smoke unit, etc.. should that be the cause of your electronic woes.  The point is you would not need to fuss with soldering track power wires to a bridge rectifier and messing with the 2 pairs of motor wires.  That is, these wires are already cabled and properly connected to the board set.  So in effect you are bypassing the electronics...except doing so via software.

 

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