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Jack had your the answer.  The MTH system is very basic, but it is the only O gauge one currently available.  You can also power your electrics through the MTH system if you want.

Since I run 3 rail, having a catenary capable of power is a low priority for me.  I would like one that is more realistic looking than MTH's, but it doesn't have to be scale detailed.  I keep hoping Menards will come up with something that looks good and not be too expensive.

Robert Coniglio posted:

I was wondering if there are any manufacturers who make a complete catenary system

 

Bob C.

Modelmemories.com in o scale and ho ,  cantenary systems , tell tales , high power transiton poles         , there o scale wire for the pantagrafs  to run on premade 4 /36" pieces for $40 . techman 

techman posted:
Robert Coniglio posted:

I was wondering if there are any manufacturers who make a complete catenary system

 

Bob C.

Modelmemories.com in o scale and ho ,  cantenary systems , tell tales , high power transiton poles         , there o scale wire for the pantagrafs  to run on premade 4 /36" pieces for $40 . techman 

they are listed on the o'gauge scenery source list  techman

Couple of negatives about the MTH system. You need to bend the overhead wire on curves, This is not how the prototype works and to me it looks toylike. I'm lucky with building the Milwaukee Road. Their system was simple and easy to build. Many short lines and a few class one railroads used the system. As a model it is amazingly strong. Dowels are drilled into the wood base. Also the Marklin wire  comes in three lengths. The shortest is adjustable. MTH is a good system but not cheap. Wood dowels, brass rod and Marklin wire is all you need. Donbox cab on high bridge

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I have studied your catenary for a long time Don.  It spells Milwaukee all the way.  It is very well done.  My issue was a bit different as on my side of this great country catenary supports are steel and some places I beam.  I being a toy train guy, wanted something that looked like Lionel could have made it in 1954.  I feel I hit it with the 153 block signal caps on top.   It is one hundred percent operational and I do not have any rollers under the locomotive

Metroliner 001

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  • Metroliner 001
Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry
Marty Fitzhenry posted:

I have studied your catenary for a long time Don.  It spells Milwaukee all the way.  It is very well done.  My issue was a bit different as on my side of this great country catenary supports are steel and some places I beam.  I being a toy train guy, wanted something that looked like Lionel could have made it in 1954.  I feel I hit it with the 153 block signal caps on top.   It is one hundred percent operational and I do not have any rollers under the locomotive

Metroliner 001

  1. Marty, Mickey is not setting a very good example for the little ones. 
RideTheRails posted:
Dan Padova posted:

MTH makes a very nice one.  I have just completed installation of mine.  It's not terribly expensive and goes together well.  IMG_3067IMG_3068IMG_3069IMG_3070IMG_3071

Dan, do you have problems with the overhead wire in the MTH system flexing or twisting, etc? I have the MTH system but haven't set it up it. The overhead wire seemed awful flimsy.

Steve

If you don't place the contact wire too low, there is no flexing.  As I was setting the height of the wire, I used the E-33 you see in my photos as a template.  At first, I had the wire lower because I wanted to run my GG1 under wire also.  However, the GG1 is not as tall as the E-33, so the Pantograph on the E-33 was pushing too hard on the wire.  I didn't see any flexing even then on the straight runs.  I hadn't installed the curved wire at that point.  

I decided that since this is a small switching layout, that I would only run the E-33.   If I ever build a larger layout in the garage attic, I will certainly have the GG1 in mind when building the catenary.  

Back in the eighties I had a layout with scratch-built catenary.  At that time I used 1/16" brass rod for the contact wire.  The pantograph on the E-33 I had at the time glided smoothly on the brass, so I was able to lower the wire to accommodate the GG1.  It seems the MTH contact wire isn't quite as smooth as the brass wire, so when I had the present contact wire lower, the Pantograph was dragging more.  I attached a piece of LGB track cleaning eraser to the top of the pantograph and let the locomotive run around the circuit a few times.  It smoothed out the bottom the contact wire enough that I could feel the difference.  

The MTH wire is stamped, so in the stamping process, there is always some burr on one side.  That burr can translate downward to the running surface of the wire.

I like MTH's system.  I thought of scratch-building one this time, but had the funds available so I opted for the MTH catenary.   

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