Confusing diagrams for wiring DZ1000 for non-derailing

Yikes! This  may be hard to explain with no pics however  the insulated outside  rail  section between the frog and the end of rail where it joins the next track section should be insulated .  An insulating pin would go here where it joins the next track section..

There should be 2 insulated sections on the turnout.. one  for the diverging route and one for the straight route.    Hook (solder) a wire to each of  these  sections  and each wire would go one of the outside connection on the switch controller.  If you get it backwards reverse the wires at the controller.

Gregg, here are photos of the two diagrams. First is the one from Ross and second is the one from Z-Stuff:

It's  difficult to come up with a straight answer because we don't know which Ross switch you're hooking up. I know the  rail between the frog and the end of the rail must be insulated from  all other rails.   Some Ross switches have ( had) a plastic frog so there would be no need of a second insulating pin . If the frog was metal than a second insulating pin might be necessary.   Do you have a continuity meter?   Which switch? plastic or metal frog.

It seem the Ross pic shows   the attaching  track with the 3 inch insulated  section and not the actual  switch. I'm not sure about that, I certainly wouldn't do it that way,.

I was confused by the same thing and called Steve at Ross. The insulated 3" rail in the instructions is on the track leading into the switch and not on the switch itself.  I was using the 11 degree switches and ended up cutting the one rail (on both tracks) on the track 3 inches in to create an insulated section. You may be able to insulate the rail on the switch if you have other switches but I had trouble with the 11 degree. The rail spikes were touching for the 2 rails by the frog and it wasn't working. 

If we numbered  the rails  at the top from left to right. Rails 3&4  .. and 9&10    would get insulated track pins.. 

I see now where I went wrong understanding where to cut. I cut the rail on the switch itself 3 inches from the frog, which is plastic. Being new to this I just didn't understand. Thanks guys for enlightening me. :-) Now what about the wiring itself? The Z-Stuff diagram shows the wires connecting to the wrong side of the switch motor and button controller.

Rick,

Just wire the R and L (green and yellow wires) to the opposite of the 'common' isolated sections.

Power up the transformer, do not power up the locomotives, and TEST your connections by taking a jumper and connect one end of the jumper to 'common'.  Touch the other end of your jumper to each isolated rail.

If the switch 'throws' to the side you just touched, your connections are good.  If the switch throws in the other direction, reverse the wires at one end only, either R or L.

Do yourself a big favor - the wires on the DZ1000 and DZ1002 are frail and small gage.  Use Euro style terminal blocks to make connections.  This will ease replacement or troubleshooting.

bruce

Thank you all for your help in understanding this. I have a lot of work to do to fix my switches and non-derailing wiring.

Regards,

Rick