I have my winter layout, that is in 4 sections, in my garage with an uneven floor. Each year when putting it up I have been having trouble getting the sections, modules, to line up evenly so as to have no rises in the track. I have 2- 2x8ft. sections connected to 2- 2.5 x 3.5ft. sections. These sections used to be 1-4x8ft. platform to 1 5x7.5ft. platform. I use bolts through holes in the framing to hold them but still have a problem keeping them lined up. The bolt holes are a little reamed out by reusing them each year so this is some of the problem. I am looking for a way to keep these sections lined up so they won't shift or settle while they are set up without having to keep getting larger bolts. I am going to the show in New Eagle, Pa. today and if there is a modular setup there I will check it out.

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I use thumbscrews and wing nuts with fender washers to secure my modules.  As stated above, the holes start out slightly oversized and  get reamed out after several setups.

One solution is to use alignment pins, or if you'll be leaving yours up for several years, sheet rock screws to hold them in alignment after you first get them aligned.

Jan

I went to the show and two different clubs were there. They both used c-clamps for their modules, saying that it was the easiest  to do quickly. The o gauge club said if up for a longer time the put pins in the outer rails, even though it was a pain, but held the rails even for a long time. I have used t-nuts for a lot of other things but think the holes will still get reamed out over time. I like the roto-lock and might give them a try. thanks for the advice everyone.

I use Freeman's square brass dowels for modules and lift outs.

IMG_8656IMG_8661winding down over view 003winding down over view 004winding down over view 005Three bridges 006

These are the same  dowels I used on Mike Reagons TAS traveling modules.  They come in 10 different sizes for almost any application.  Those European cam locks are slick but not too many folks are up to installing them.

Despite the naa sayers the brass dowels work well for passing track power.  You can make wireless lift outs with them.

Coupled with a micro switch you can isolate track to protect open voids.

Eternity is a long time to have been wrong.

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Modular group I belonged to would level one module,  then just line up the track pins and clamp the section together.   Usually the quick grip clamps were all we needed.  Metal c clamps only if started running low on the quick clamps although we did often use c clamps in the corners. 

May God Bless us all.

For past modules I've used T-nuts on the bottom of the legs with carriage bolts to adjust height, and standard hardware store half-and-half hinges. Adjust the height to match the hinge halves, put the hinge-pins in and away you go.

Firewood

 

"Nice try, Lao Che!"

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