cutting ABS/plastic shells

I'd probably use my bandsaw, I have several blades, including one that is for fine cuts.  I think the chop saw or even a table saw will make a mess and melt a lot of plastic.

gunrunnerjohn, I think I have every saw ever made except a band saw, probably can find someone with one. What about a scroll saw?

John (rattler 21), what did you use to make the cuts on the K-LINE?

Mike

Mohawk Mike - the only filler that I use is automotive Bondo. I get it in a tube from

any auto parts store. It's oxide red; I do not know if there are different formulations.

It is tough, of course - designed for the real world (the highway). It is immune to oils, etc. It is easy and friendly to work.

I used to use Squadron Green "hobby" putty - but it is delicate, not resistant to damage

and will eventually crumble when exposed to - guess what? - smoke fluid!

Don't ask me how I know that; I'll cuss some more. 

The Bondo is workable just like the "hobby" putty. But it's durable.

D500,

I found that the Squadron Green shrinks after a while leaving dimples and cracks. I'll try the Bondo. Thanks

Two techniques i have used in both cases required making a jig out of a few pieces of scrap pine to hold the carbody in position. A friend has a band saw with a very fine toothed blade that he can run very slowly as not to melt the plastic. This worked like a champ when we had to cut the window strips out of 9 American Flyer Osgood Bradly coaches which were made in the early 1950's (with very soft plastic). The other method i've used is to scribe (After clamping in the aforementioned jig) the body with an Xacto knife, and then saw it with a wide blade Zona saw using the jig as a guide.

For a filler i use either the red autobody filler i get at NAPA or Squadron white putty. The auto body filler seems more durable.

jackson

Photo of one of the Osgood Bradley coaches made by grafting AF window strips into KLine coaches.

For a smooth even cut, I think the bandsaw is going to be the ticket.  A scroll saw is going to be a lot more likely not to cut a perfectly straight line, at least when I use them.

OK guys, band saw and bondo it is. I'll post the project as I go along.

Thanks for your input

Mike

I use a 'chop saw' to modifiy my models.

To turn this Industrial Rail hopper into a shorty for my BEEP I put the car in the saw, made sure it was square and cut. It cut so square and clean I did not have to putty,sand....only a VERY small touch up of the paint was needed.

If you are only doing a couple of cuts this hand saw might work.

http://www.micromark.com/zona-...utting-saw,8298.html

I use it for cutting down/kitbashing other styrene kits (e.g. rocket models, ship models).  You will need to come up with a blade guide/miter or scribe your guidelines with a carbide scribing tool or a very sharp Xacto knife.

AMC Dave,

How many TPI on the chop saw blade you used?

Joe

AMC Dave,

I thought a chop saw blade would run too fast and too hot but it looks like it worked OK for you. Like coach joe, I would be interested in knowing what type of blade you used.

Mike

Thank's Chuck

Boy it doesn't take long for everyone to veer off course.

Mike ,get a nice Zona  or whatever brand Razor saw you like ,fine tooth I'm pretty sure,

Look em up,and research the different blades

measure and cut,don't reinvent the wheel.

Or E mail Alan Graziano,and ask him,I'm sure he will be more that glad to give you accurate and good advice

Do it by hand as suggested by Modeltrainparts, Chuck and Transman. The razor saws have a very thin blade. Carefully mark your cut, scribe with an X-acto blade (I use the back side), then cut with the razor saw.

Do you guys use a miter box when you use a razor saw or is that not necessary? How do you keep the cut 90 degrees? I'm cutting an FM shell which is 2 3/4 " high.

Mike

As i said in my earlier post, i made a jig out of some scrap pine to hold the carbody in position and serve as a cutting guide to keep my razor saw true. Yes, 2 3/4" high, but the FM shell is LESS than 1/8" thick.

jackson

All cuts where done with zona saw,  my kitbashed SDL39