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I've long been a fan of Lionel Postwar F3s, but this year I've worked on a lot of early Alco sets and have come to really appreciate them. Recently, I decided to add a motor to the dummies (as well as add some LED lighting to them). The end result looks cool (from the standpoint of illumination) and run like bears. I built a drawbar pull test track and found that these sets now out pull my F3s (and even more so with the addition of lead ballast as you'll see below).

 

The photos below will show the mods necessary to add the second motor. Besides locating front power trucks and motors for them, it's necessary to take out the front truck pivot plate in the dummies and replace it with a motor plate (a bit difficult to find). The rest is straightforward. After the new motor is mounted to the new truck and to the dummy frame, I decided to connect the two motors in a similar fashion to the linked dual motors in the F3s. I used 22 gauge wire (3) for that and first connected to the front unit motor. Shrink tubing is used to hold them together. The wires are run out the hole in the rear door, down towards the couplers and then up and in the rear door of the dummy. I used a long piece of shrink tube to cover the wires as they emerge from the shells so that they look like a thick cable connecting the two engines. In reality, it's a tether. This way, the e-unit in the front engine connects both motors. As with the F3s, the motors face in opposite directions so you connect the middle contacts together and then the two outer ones together. Looking down.....right and right, left and left. 

 

For lighting, I added a brass tube (3/4 inch) over the headlight lens and put a 5 mm warm white bulb (from Evans) in the tube. I then removed the number boards, then Dremeled away the inside front of each board so that I could drop in a chip LED to illuminate the (formerly) unlit red marker lights. I Gooped all the bulbs in place and connected the leads to power and ground. I kept the incandescent bulb in there. 

 

The last thing I did was to add a 1 lb lead ingot just behind the motor in the dummy to increase it's traction (added about .2 lb of draw on my meter). The photos below show the process. It will finish with two short videos. The first is an Alco set with one motor and the second is a double motored set pulling the same consist. I had each set in neutral and shifted to forward and quickly raised the voltage to 14V. You will clearly see the difference in pulling power (and possibly hear the strain on the single motored Alco).  Hopefully the two videos will load with the photos below. If not, I'll add a second post. 

 

Roger

 

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Original Post

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John,

No.....I hadn't seen that thread until a few minutes ago. Nice job on that one!

 

Originally, I thought I'd have to find some old Alco frames and cannibalize them for the plates or......make some out of sheet metal or brass (which would be fairly easy, I think). But Jeff Kane, my parts guy had some plates. I originally was going to do it on one set, but bought the three he had and ended up doing three sets. I have a fourth set, but will leave that one (Erie) as is. It's amazing, the difference in performance of these already nice engines.

 

Roger

 

quote:
It never occurred to me that someone would have the motor plates, all of them appear to be welded to the frame.  Sounds like you ran Jeff out of those...



 

They are riveted, not welded.
You can get away with using the dummy bracket if you enlarge the pivot hole slightly. The truck will be just a tiny bit out of place. No clearance issues are created.  Most folks wouldn't notice, but a few might.

 

I've converted dummy chassis to power several times and have done it both ways. My source of power brackets are junk chassis.

 

It's easy to convert the dummy chassis. Just swap that bracket, knock out the filler plate from the battery hole, and tap a few holes for the correct size screws. The holes are already drilled.

Last edited by C W Burfle

The ones that I took off were spot-welded, no rivets anywhere in sight.  The original on the Phantom's motor is spot-welded as well.

 

I think the old PW ones may have been riveted, however the stuff from the 90's are not.

 

There was no dummy bracket in the Phantom, the truck was mounted directly on the frame plate.

 

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

Great work, guys.   I did this years ago with a set of 2023s.  I also used an E-unit umbilical.  Two motors, 1 E-unit, and one horn makes for one awesome Alco set! Nowadays, WBB makes all this rather unnecessary, with their tuccan Alco sets.  I've always had a soft spot for the little Alcos, being my first Lionel Diesels.

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