Electrical suggestions for new layout

Well, being in Canada, I'd consider how you're going to heat the place, I'd think about that up front!  There's no huge electrical demand for a decent size layout unless you do something really wild.  My 12 x 24 layout with a 15 foot 10 track yard extension is powered using four 180 watt transformers and a couple smaller bricks for switches and the like.  I'm sure I'm not using more than 300-400 watts most of the time, and it's all powered off one outlet.

Lighting is another topic, since you have the luxury of starting from scratch, consider some variable color LED lighting so you can simulate different environments.  I have hi-hats in the ceiling, but track lighting works well too, it allows you to customize the lighting to the layout features.

I'd suggest work lights and layout lights be separate.  Some LED shop lights (6 or 8 feet hard wired, regular on/off switch) for working on the layout.  Then, as gunrunner mentioned, the option to have strategically placed floods that can be dimmed or color changed to simulate different lighting such as day, sunrise, sunset, night or just to spot light scenes.  Keep in mind switch ratings for the number of lights they can handle.  If your layout will be double decked anywhere you might also need lighting for the lower level as it will be shadowed by the upper.  So a separate circuit may be needed for that depending on your plan.

I expect that building codes will require you to have more circuits/wall outlets than you could possibly use.  Lighting options as suggest above will exceed what would normally be required.  Several large layout owners have mentioned using LED light tapes under the layout because that area becomes the peinciple storage area for boxes, etc.

Jan

I used some under counter LED lights and connected them to a wireless controller so I could control them remotely.  I used a dozen of them around under the layout.

Whenever I learn that someone is planning on an outbuilding with a concrete floor (in temperate or northern zones) I recommend that they consider radiant heat (electric or hydronic) in the floor. Nothing beats having a toasty floor while working on a car, hobby or other activity. Heating the air around your head is scientifically illogical. The human head is where the "thermostat" is located, and if your head is toasty, from heat sourced above, your feet will gradually get colder, as you turn down the heat.  Cold feet = inefficient work and gradual discomfort.

In the good ol' USA, the NEC covers residential occupancies that require receptacles no more than 12 feet apart (the length of a standard lamp cord being 7 feet). If you ever tire of trains (God Forbid) and want to use the addition for some other residential occupancy, you'll be glad you installed the outlets. I'm pretty certain that the Canadian equivalent is the CEC/CSA and that the rules are the same or close.

I say "yes" you will probably be required to install lots of receptacles, and "yes" you should consider floor heat.

Thanks for all the replies. Some good ideas on lighting above and underneath.  You are correct I’ll have to wire this to code as a detached garage so will be lots of receptacles. I plan on having a couple higher up for some clocks and neon lights. Generally was planning for an around the room layout with fingers coming in towards the center of the room. In floor heat would be nice. I will likely go with some foam mats on the floor as there won’t be water so electric would be the only in floor option. I will have to explore this more. I will post the garage plans soon and get the creative juices flowing for a layout plan.

Congratulations on your new "train cave"!

I just put up a 400 sq ft detached (insulated) shed in Michigan which is housing my 5X16 layout (plus other tools and toys).   Here's how I wired it:

-a single 15 amp circuit for lighting.  With all LED lights, this was more than enough.

-Two 20 amp lines for the GFCI wall outlets.  The best advice that I got was to have every other outlet just above 4' from the floor.   That way, when you inevitably lean a 4X8 sheet of plywood on its side, you can easily access an outlet without having to move (or crawl behind) the plywood.  

-Per Gunrunnerjohn, heating is the biggest question.  If you're using natural gas or propane, then a 50 amp service and breaker panel should be good.  If you're planning on using electric heat, you may need something bigger.

Good luck, and post pictures of your progress...

Put in some floor outlets. When we built our house six years ago. I made sure I had a floor outlet in the train room part of the basement. Now I wish I had put a few more of them. My layout is an 10’x34’ island layout.

Thanks.  Regarding electrical, the main service will be coming through the garage and then on to the house and will be 200 amp so no issues there. We are doing solar panels on the roof as well so am considering electric heat although that is the more expensive option vs natural gas here for fuel source. I have to trench electrical wire to the garage anyways so I will trench natural gas at same time so we have options. I may try baseboard heat one winter and monitor usage and cost.  Lots to ponder!

Gerhardt, after many years of dreaming I added a second garage behind my first garage (20' x 44') and built my office above it. I also decorated the office with my train collection. I put a duplex receptacle outlet every 4'-0" o.c. and have something plugged into almost every outlet. For protection I ran the circuits with the first receptacle (outlet) being a GFI and then every one after is then protected by the GFI. By the time you plug in the train layout (dedicated circuit) and a microwave and tv and coffee maker and small refrigerator and battery chargers and computers they get used up quickly. I would add up the loads based on the items you will use and adjust the circuits accordingly.

I used 4w LED wafer lights in ceiling which save on power.

Used a split system (220v) with cassette in ceiling to heat and cool without having to run gas out to the detached garage. Very efficient system. Used a 20 amp 220v breaker and draws maximum 17 amps. 18,000 BTU.

20 amp circuit should be about 2400 watts so I would go no more than 8 outlets per circuit. (300w per outlet)

At 15 amp circuit you are at 1800 watts (AKA Hairdryer) and I would reduce the receptacle down to 6 on the circuit. (300w per outlet)

Bathrooms should always have a dedicated circuit for things like the hairdryer. Our house before we re-wired it had knob and tube. Had to turn off everything on the second floor for the wife to use the hairdryer!

I kept the lighting on a separate circuit from the receptacles in the new office.

This is only a suggestion and not gospel, but would be a good benchmark for your project.

Gerhardt,

Don’t dismiss infloor radiant heat because you won’t have water to the garage. It is a closed loop system and there is no need for a water supply. The heat transfer liquid is a mix of glycol and water. You would need expert advice on sizing the system and determining the ratio of antifreeze to water. You can heat the liquid with either gas or electricity, your choice.

The comfort of infloor radiant heat cannot be underestimated. Do check it out before you pour that slab.
Bob. (Also way up in Canada.)

Hello Gerhardt,

Many good suggestions from others here, my thoughts are:

I live outside Seattle on an Island where I was an electrical contractor and building contractor prior to retiring a few years back.

I would consider having insulating foam shot or foam panels between the earth and the concrete slab. Then I would use a mini splits for efficient heating with a couple of in wall forced electric as backup heat if the temp drops too low for the mini split ductless system to operate efficiently.

Regarding lighting, Gunner John suggested track lighting. I agree maximum flexibility if you use 2 circuit tracks with a combination of flood and spot LED lamps in multiple track heads. Consider looking at JUNO track lighting and Lutron remote control scene control systems.

Install good remote 350cfm or better, with variable speed control remote fan exhausts.

I like carpeting on a thick pad over a slab for warmth and sound suppression.

In most cases the electrical code will ensure a minimum number of circuits if the room is designated family room. Most likely a 20-amp 120 VAC for layout power and one 15-amp 120 VAC. I don't believe I would consider floor outlets in a slab for layout purposes. Pretty easy to run MC or armor flex from a wall outlet on the underside of layout to power distribution point.

Good Luck, no matter have fun. kevin

You may want to consider a single surge protector for the circuit in your new garage.

Depending on your location and ground water levels, consider and take any necessary precautionary measures to prevent potential water penetration.