Does anyone have information on motor failure on Lionel EM-1, 72-8051-250? This engine was cataloged in 2000. I would like to replace Pittman motor which I believe has failed.
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Motor failures are kinda rare for Pittmans in the first place,….have you verified that the motor is kaput?…not saying it hasn’t happened, but still, it’s rare to see one soil the bed ….I’ve seen some fail due to a stall with power still being applied to the brushes, but no motor can withstand that …….
Pat
Well, for one thing, that's not the product number, that's just the manual.
Second thing is, I have a hard time, a very hard time believing a Pittman motor failed VS the far more likely motor driver failure in 22 year old electronics.
https://www.lionelsupport.com/...LOCO-ONLY-6208051001
We should confirm your exact product number off the box (example 6-28051) or based on road name and cab number.
Again, if I was in this situation, I would test the motor with a DC power source like an HO transformer or even a 9V battery.
Then If the motor driver electronics were bad, I would just put an ERR Cruise M into it vs putting another 20 year old motor driver into it from Lionel parts.
Direct link to the motor if you are sure that is the problem https://www.lionelsupport.com/....1V-NO-HARDWARE-61mm
Again if the motor driver is bad, then I would put this in before going back original to the 20+ year old first generation Odyssey motor driver.
http://www.3rdrail.com/err-3rd...ruiseCommanderM.html
VS
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One more thing to check outside of the can motor. The driveshafts on these tmcc em1's are prone to failure.
@RickO posted:One more thing to check outside of the can motor. The driveshafts on these tmcc em1's are prone to failure.
They certainly do Rick, and I have the fix for those as well,….try and break this beauty!….my son’s Legacy EM1 grenaded the shaft, …..we rebuilt that locomotive with this shaft, and handed the Cannon motor it’s walking papers while we were in there……😉
Pat 
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The drive shaft appears good, I did the upgrade nearly 21 years ago. I reset the program as well. The sounds and lights work too. When I crank up the speed and mute the sound, I can hear (Hard to hear it with the engine fully assembled) the actual motor spin up sound and can push the engine and the wheels turn freely but the engine will not go forward or backward on its own. Appears like there is no torque or maybe the drive shaft is bad again. I will take is apart again.
@JR posted:The drive shaft appears good, I did the upgrade nearly 21 years ago. I reset the program as well. The sounds and lights work too. When I crank up the speed and mute the sound, I can hear (Hard to hear it with the engine fully assembled) the actual motor spin up sound and can push the engine and the wheels turn freely but the engine will not go forward or backward on its own. Appears like there is no torque or maybe the drive shaft is bad again. I will take is apart again.
Ok, the earliest models of the EM1 has a known issue of the coupling head on the first worm shaft to come loose and spin on the worm shaft …..if you are handy with tools, the cup can easily be drilled and tapped for a set screw, and that will solve that issue, …but an investigation is needed ….
Pat
The part number is 6-28051, engine cab number 7616. I will take it apart today and look for the loose worm shaft. My goal is to fix this.
Thank you
@JR posted:The part number is 6-28051, engine cab number 7616. I will take it apart today and look for the loose worm shaft. My goal is to fix this.
Thank you
You are specifically looking for the circled part to be loose ….this would be the first shaft. Also inspect your plastic dog bone coupling shaft. I have seen a couple get wrecked when the coupler got loose and wandered down the worm shaft …
Pat
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Thanks Pat! The pin is missing which links the coupling to the drive shaft in the circle in Pat's picture. You can slide a paper clip through the hole which locks the shaft to the coupling. I cannot find the missing pin though. Can I still order a new coupling assembly or pin from Lionel? I now believe the motor and driver board are still good.
@JR posted:Thanks Pat! The pin is missing which links the coupling to the drive shaft in the circle in Pat's picture. You can slide a paper clip through the hole which locks the shaft to the coupling. I cannot find the missing pin though. Can I still order a new coupling assembly or pin from Lionel? I now believe the motor and driver board are still good.
Really no need to buy new parts, can you fashion a new pin, or tap one end of the coupling for a tiny screw that’ll pass though?…..even a tiny cotter key would do the deed,…..
Pat
I was attempting to use a section of paper clip to at least temporarily fix the problem when something moved around in the shaft hole and solidly locked the coupling to the shaft. I could no longer stick the paper clip through the hole. The engine now works great. I plan to order the dog bone coupling anyway as a backup. I am happy for now. Thanks again for all the suggestions which got me on track to solve this.
