Engine Not on Track

Get it running again, then do a factory reset on the locomotive, delete it from your remote and then add it back in again.

Sure seems like a Battery issue. I would go back to a know good battery.

Or try this. .How long do sounds carry on after track power is cut off. If not at least 6 or 7 seconds the battery needs charging . SAme thing with BCR.

 If the battery is weak the engine really doesn't get reset, it only gets deleted from the remote. The engine will still have  an ID number created when the battery up to par.

You've got a bad battery. When you initiate a shutdown the last thing the loco does is save the loco address. It's not saving

It's possible the engine isn't charging the BCR or the battery snap is defective. Check the engine sound test like Gregg suggests. Cut off the  TRACK power with the engine running and see if the sounds continue for at least 6 to 7 seconds. Don't use the SHUT DOWN on the remote to test the battery or BCR.

I agree with the other posters, except that I was suggesting to cut to the chase and resolve the problem, rather than analyze it. This happened to me and this is how I resolved it.

I went ahead and took out the new BCR I had installed and just push a fresh new battery in the engine, did a factory reset and had the same result.  I also tested just shutting off the track power with the engine running with both the new battery in it and also with the BCR.  The engine continued to run for 7-8 seconds before shutting down.  So with that said I am guessing its something more than just the battery?

Very frustrating having a $800+ engine with less than 15 minutes of run time not function anymore properly!

 You could try to eliminate "delete and add "each time you want to run the engine.

Reset the remote.(warning everything will be deleted or lost)  If the factory reset was working the engine would add back at the lowest available ID . In this case ID1.  

Since it's not working ,the engine should add back at it's old ID number created when  things were working... If the engine adds back at say  ID 6 you won't have to delete and add  each time.  Something's still amiss though. .

Gregg posted:

 You could try to eliminate "delete and add "each time you want to run the engine.

Reset the remote.(warning everything will be deleted or lost)  If the factory reset was working the engine would add back at the lowest available ID . In this case ID1.  

Since it's not working ,the engine should add back at it's old ID number created when  things were working... If the engine adds back at say  ID 6 you won't have to delete and add  each time.  Something's still amiss though. .

I agree with resetting the remote, if you don't mind adding all engines back in.

Resetting the remote would mean losing all my AIU settings for my switches too?

AJLaBoe posted:

Resetting the remote would mean losing all my AIU settings for my switches too?

Yes it would. However you could delete all the engines one by one without losing your AIU & switch setting. Do you have  any idea what the old ID was ? you could make it available.   How many engines do you have? We're sort of getting in  to extreme measures . Normally a battery charge fixes this type of thing  . there's still the possibility of a bad board and  that no matter we do it's just not going to remember it's id no matter what it is.

I want to thank everyone for their input.  Looks like clearing out all the engines and adding the Blue Goose in with the change of address in the DCS fixed it.  

Glad to hear that. What ID# did it assign?

It assigned it to #1 address.

Then, you are good to go. I would say 100%.

AJLaBoe posted:

It assigned it to #1 address.

Interesting. I haven't seen this in a while. What version of DCS are you using?

I'm not sure what actually happened as well... Either the battery charged enough to do a factory reset and the engine then added to the lowest available ID which would be ID#1  after resetting the remote.  Or the engines ID was ID 1, created when the battery was good.   How would  you   test? Try editing the address to a different ID. if it sticks the battery was the problem. Then again, maybe best left alone if it's working....

Gregg,

I'm not sure what actually happened as well... Either the battery charged enough to do a factory reset and the engine then added to the lowest available ID which would be ID#1 after resetting the remote. Or the engines ID was ID 1, created when the battery was good. How would you test? Try editing the address to a different ID. if it sticks the battery was the problem. Then again, maybe best left alone if it's working....

If the reset worked, there would have been a fleeting message stating "Engine address changed to 1".

If the reset worked, there would have been a fleeting message stating "Engine address changed to 1".

Barry

Huh? you lost me on that one Barry.... Wouldn't you get that message if editing the address?  Having a good day at York I hope.

Gregg,

The only time that message appears is when the following happens:

• The engine is really factory-reset, which changes its engine ID# to the factory default, which would equate to a DCS ID# of zero (if there was a DCS ID# of zero)
• Whe the engine is added, it's engine ID# is changed to something in the DCS ID# range of 1-99
• That's when the message would appear.

If the engine wasn't actually factory-reset, the engine would re-add at it's previous DCS ID#, and the message would not appear.