I have a CC M on the way for my K Line scale Mikado with factory TMCC

Has anyone converted one of these locos?

Is this a plug and play install?

ERRs instructions show cutting and adding wires on some installs is that needed for this install? 

Thanks for the help....Dave

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As Norton states, it is simply procedure to do.  Down load the install manual if you have not, already, and follow clear instructions.  I installed my first on the K Line St Fe Berkshire in 2012.  Changed out the K Line/Lionel cruise board for the ERR CCM, along with newer can.  The ERR CCM controls cruise with back EMF from the motor, do not need the can with rpm reader circuit. Very happy with the improvement in slow speed control.  Have performed a couple more since then on other K Line engines, including the Rock Island E8s.  Excellent choice, IMHO.ERR Cruise M and new can in StFe Berk installed 2012

Jesse   TCA

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well my easy conversion has a snag...

I triple checked wiring  I have correct wire for pin 24  I checked wiring against earlier conversion, 

but loco is motionless in conv and command

whistle blows on bell and other buttons could it be a bad CCm ? how do you test one

I didn't do a schematic of my tester, it was sort of assembled ad-hoc.  I recently added the ability to test smoke regulators as I have been seeing a lot of them lately.  At the lower right I have a high current bulb and connections for the smoke regulator.

I can test most of the TMCC components with it.  When something pops up that I need, I just wire it in.

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I'm good on all my connections its odd that the whistle blows on many of the numbered buttons and on bell button

This board has 2 serial data wires on J4 connector I used pin 1 and soldered it to pin 24 on r2lc and left factory serial wires to tether as is   I didn't use wire on pin 2

The directions show it as data out to sound and as optional    Do they want serial data to flow thru ccm ?

How infrequently do you get bad boards?

Should I send it to Gunrunner John or back to ERR?

The whistle blowing on any button suggests it's in program mode and not run mode?  That will also preclude running.

Nothing you do with the serial data will prevent it from moving, it'll just take off like a rocket as a rule when you crack the throttle with no serial data.  Did you reconnect the DCDR and verify the locomotive still runs with that board?

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I didn't do a schematic of my tester, it was sort of assembled ad-hoc.  I recently added the ability to test smoke regulators as I have been seeing a lot of them lately.  At the lower right I have a high current bulb and connections for the smoke regulator.

I can test most of the TMCC components with it.  When something pops up that I need, I just wire it in.

That’ll help. I think I can copy. If you have time, what are the particulars on the switches? LEDs? In the front? I’m thinking about how to activate testing. Radio board and cab?

Chuck TCA LCCA ARRL BMWMOA

And we have a winner in the guess what the inexperienced installer messed up on contest....

Gunrunner John gets the big hi five from me...

Dopey me wasn't paying attention to the run/program switch and spent the afternoon rechecking wires and such !!! With the switch in the run position all works properly!!!  

Man do I feel dumb...…. and also very grateful for all the smart people on this site!!

Thanks for all your help 

I am also upgrading a K-line scale Mikado.  Everything in the instructions looks simple.  Then reading this thread, I am getting confused.  In the cruise M instructions, the example of the K-line Allegheny had the following instructions:

“3) Locate the 10-pin connector in the kit, and plug this into the mating “J4” connector as identified below.”

”4) Locate the serial data line cluster wire nut, and attach the wire from “J4”, pin-1 to this cluster and replace the wire nut.”

The instructions doesn’t mention soldering a serial wire to the R2LC 24 pin for the K-Line.  The instructions do mention that step for the Lionel examples.

early in the manual, it made the following distinction between K-Line and Lionel:

“Finally, the serial data must be connected to the Cruise “M” for speed step and setting the configuration information. This connection does not exist on Lionel locos, but does exist in K-Line cruise locos.”

I was thinking I should follow the instructions and not solder the serial wire to the 24 pin, but this discussion appears to contradict those instructions. I would like any advise before I make a mistake.2DE27A32-746A-47D4-AE98-7A5653B08204387A13B2-C8B4-4836-8CEC-EA96B90DA63D

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You can do either, if the K-Line has the serial data in a wire nut, you can find it there.  Of course, picking the wrong wire nut would be a very bad thing!

Personally, I usually just solder it to pin #24, I know that's serial data.

Now I have a new problem.  Installed and the cruise M and it works as expected.  But, my lights are now in reverse.  Headlight comes on in reverse, backup light comes on going forward.

One of the wires to the headlight came lose and I had to solder that when I reassembled.  Wouldn't think that would have caused this.

Did you do a TMCC ID reset on it?  I am having a problem with anything reversing the lights. 

I've never heard of it, but the CC-M could have the motor running backwards.  If all else fails, just plug in the DCDR you removed and see if sanity returns.  You can normally do that without taking the CC-M out, just make sure to insulate the DCDR and set it on top for a test.

Well, if it's starting in reverse, something is amiss!   Try clearing any lash-up and seeing if that helps.

1. Press TR on the remote
2. Press 00
3. Key in the engine ID ##
4. Press set

If it all went well, this gives you a whistle/horn and the lash-up is cleared.

That works with my CAB1L, for Legacy you can use the on-screen prompts.

Dave (and Pete), you guys are correct, I didn't even look closely at the pictures.  The board that is connected is actually the K-Line cruise module! Duh!!  I should look closer before I speak.

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