Fast track losing voltage

AVR conductor posted:

 prior  to me going to work.  I was running the train, then it just stopped altogether.

Your boss from work slipped in a bum section?

Does the train run OK without those 2 sections? If not, it may be a single "bad" section of FasTrack near the home-made section. That happened to me back in 2005.

I have many home made fastrack isolation sections on my layout. Once you have removed the pin, I use a grinder to shorten the track about 1/32" or so to create a "gap" to ensure proper isolation. You then have to be sure the other outside rail has a good connection. I often bend the pin to give a better connection. You may need to bend the center pin as well, especially if you are having voltage issues.

It was running fine. Just lost voltage. Now  nothing. As soon as the engine clears the homage isolated section  it dies

Which pins did you remove, and how many sections are insulated?

I assume you do not have a multi meter so as to take voltage readings at your track sections. If you don't go to Sears, Radio Shack, or any home store and pick one up. They run about thirty dollars but are worth their weight in gold at times like this.

But, if you wont to test without all that running out to the store take a jumper wire hook it to a section of track where the train runs well and run it to a questionable track section. Do center rail to center rail then each outside rail to outside rail.

If you have a lighted car remove your engines from the track and place the car on the track. Putting full power on the track pushing it around the track should show you where your voltage drop is happening. Could be a pin, could be very dirty track.

If you have a pin corrosion, or such issue it should show up. But, nothing beats having and learning how to use a multi meter. It's a very simple procedure and tells you a ton of things a jumper wire could only hint at.

I'm sorry you did title the thread "Fast Track". In that case the above all holds true but you have to check the rail connection points underneath your track.

Good Luck and have fun!

I actually have a multimeter that I bought for testing resistance in PW whistle tenders. It didn't dawn on me till I was out doing some errands to pull it out. Anyway thanks for all the advice. I should have just stuck with the tubular track that I know. But in any case I got it figured out. The one piece of isolated section was loose. I think, either way it straightened out. So thanks again everyone