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So I think I have finally come up with a layout that I like.  I would like to know what everyone thinks, any tips on how I can improve my layout would be appreciated,  the section of track at the top of the layout I am thinking of doing a city scene and using superstreet or something equivalent.  also I am thinking about doing an elevated subway in that area as well.  Over where the "yard" is I plan on using that area as a plan to store train cars and possibly an engine.  I want to be able to run multiple trains on this layout.

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Sal,

   Your FT track design looks real good, however I think you are making a mistake with 036 FT switches, IMO 060's are much better and if you have the space the 072 better yet.  I use nothing smaller than the 048's and they are for sidings.   All my different trains run perfectly engineering in this manner, even my original Tin Plate, with all the big rolling stock.  Also if you are going to get into Legacy purchase the FT Command Control Switches, that are controlled from your Cab2 or Cab1 remotes.  IMO 036 switches are to tight for all the different engines and rolling stock, my advise is to use

at least 060 or bigger on your main line and 048's for your sidings.

PCRR/Dave

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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
Thanks for the tip.  ill have to take a look at the design to see if I can use different size switches.  I might try O48 switches for the yard and possibly for the main line.  not sure if I can get O60 to work in my space.  I am trying to avoid having to cut fastrack.
 
Originally Posted by Pine Creek Railroad:

Sal,

   Your FT track design looks real good, however I think you are making a mistake with 036 FT switches, IMO 060's are much better and if you have the space the 072 better yet.  I use nothing smaller than the 048's and they are for sidings.   All my different trains run perfectly engineering in this manner, even my original Tin Plate, with all the big rolling stock.  Also if you are going to get into Legacy purchase the FT Command Control Switches, that are controlled from your Cab2 or Cab1 remotes.  IMO 036 switches are to tight for all the different engines and rolling stock, my advise is to use

at least 060 or bigger on your main line and 048's for your sidings.

PCRR/Dave

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DSCN0927

 

PCRR
 
I started looking into what you suggested then I got to thinking I have O36 curves on this layout so the biggest engine that I would be able to use then would be something that could handle the O36 curves.  So am I wrong to think then that making the switch to bigger diameter switches is a mute point because the largest engine I will be able to run is O36.  I am new to this hobby, sorry if my thinking is amateurish.
 
Originally Posted by Pine Creek Railroad:

Sal,

   Your FT track design looks real good, however I think you are making a mistake with 036 FT switches, IMO 060's are much better and if you have the space the 072 better yet.  I use nothing smaller than the 048's and they are for sidings.   All my different trains run perfectly engineering in this manner, even my original Tin Plate, with all the big rolling stock.  Also if you are going to get into Legacy purchase the FT Command Control Switches, that are controlled from your Cab2 or Cab1 remotes.  IMO 036 switches are to tight for all the different engines and rolling stock, my advise is to use

at least 060 or bigger on your main line and 048's for your sidings.

PCRR/Dave

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DSCN0938

DSCN0927

 

Last edited by Salvagni

Salvagni,

For Layout 12.18.14, the 072 switches would give a smoother transition for the interlockings (crossovers) and include a 1 3/8' if you wanted to isolate the two loops into separate power districts.

 

The 036 switches will work well for the yard ladder due to the space restrictions. You don't gain much with the 031.

I would use a 1 3/8" as the piece to control power with a switch just after the turn-out in the yard. That will preserve the length.

 

Then, you could split a 10" if you want an uncoupler. UNC + 5" straight.

 

Do you have the FasTrack lengths pdf to help fitting? The 072 switch length makes it interesting as I am sure you have discovered.

Moonman I took your suggestions and here is what I came up with.  with the whole layout the way it is I think there is 2 pieces that I have to cut.
 
Originally Posted by Moonman:

I would use a 1 3/8" as the piece to control power with a switch just after the turn-out in the yard. That will preserve the length.

 

Then, you could split a 10" if you want an uncoupler. UNC + 5" straight.

 

Do you have the FasTrack lengths pdf to help fitting? The 072 switch length makes it interesting as I am sure you have discovered.

 

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Looks good. You have to refit around the 072 switches. There is a 1 3/8" half-roadbed piece on the thru leg of the turnout end. The 1 3/8" no roadbed in between fit when the two turnouts are together, which you have in there already. They also have a jumper wire if you need to electrically isolate the two loops.

 

I am still not sure if you want to use 031 switches for the yard ladder.

 

Everything fits nicely, with the exception of the switch piece, so it will build as you have it.

Moonman is this what your talking about?  I haven't put much thought into doing O31 for the ladder section.  Im not sure what the benefit would be.
 
Originally Posted by Moonman:

Looks good. You have to refit around the 072 switches. There is a 1 3/8" half-roadbed piece on the thru leg of the turnout end. The 1 3/8" no roadbed in between fit when the two turnouts are together, which you have in there already. They also have a jumper wire if you need to electrically isolate the two loops.

 

I am still not sure if you want to use 031 switches for the yard ladder.

 

Everything fits nicely, with the exception of the switch piece, so it will build as you have it.

 

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Moonman...
nice catch.  I had not noticed that.  do you think that those switches should be manual or remote?  do you think I will run into any issues with all the small fitter pieces?
 
Originally Posted by Moonman:

Yeppur, you have the 072 switch pieces correct now.

 

If you haven't noticed, you have 031 switches for the ladder. They are close in the library and easy to select instead of 036.

 

The reach for the switches will determine manual or remote. You may need the two farthest to be remotes.

 

You can always replace a manual with a remote when you find some at a good deal.

 

The small fitters only cause a cash problem. It takes a couple of practice pieces to get really nice custom cut pieces. But, the first one will still work. I like to work with 10" and 4 1/2" because of the way the bay supports fall. Sometimes a 5" is needed.

Last edited by Moonman

Sal,

   I do use some 048 switches on my layout, for sidings they work well also.  Now just because you are using 036 curve track in some places does not make the larger switches a mute point.  The larger switches make it easy for all trains to run thru them on a repetitive basis.  Especially if you plan to run any Tin Plate trains.  Further the longer you build layouts the bigger engines you will want to purchase, most people go thru the switch replacement phase of layout building, starting with either 027 or 036 and then replacing them with larger switches as they become more experienced.  Because I ran a lot of Tin Plate trains as a young guy, I needed the larger switches to accommodate the Tin plate engines and rolling stock, this saved me lots of money, I never went thru the switch upgrading phase of layout building.

My suggestion is 2 fold, one money and 2 great repeat running of most all different kinds of trains when using 060 and above switches on your main line.

PCRR/Dave      

I decided to use O72 switches for my mainlines and O36 for my yard.
 
Originally Posted by Pine Creek Railroad:

Sal,

   I do use some 048 switches on my layout, for sidings they work well also.  Now just because you are using 036 curve track in some places does not make the larger switches a mute point.  The larger switches make it easy for all trains to run thru them on a repetitive basis.  Especially if you plan to run any Tin Plate trains.  Further the longer you build layouts the bigger engines you will want to purchase, most people go thru the switch replacement phase of layout building, starting with either 027 or 036 and then replacing them with larger switches as they become more experienced.  Because I ran a lot of Tin Plate trains as a young guy, I needed the larger switches to accommodate the Tin plate engines and rolling stock, this saved me lots of money, I never went thru the switch upgrading phase of layout building.

My suggestion is 2 fold, one money and 2 great repeat running of most all different kinds of trains when using 060 and above switches on your main line.

PCRR/Dave      

 

Just select a track in SCARM(left-click), it will outline in red. Now hold the CTRL button down and select all of the tracks that you want to know the total length of, then right-click and select length of selected track from the context menu.

 

Cars are 12",15" 18" 19" 21" and engines are 18" to 30". add'em up and compare to the track length.

 

Happy New Year to you and your family!

Last edited by Moonman
Thanks Moon.  The engine size does that include a tender as well?
 
Originally Posted by Moonman:

Just select a track in SCARM(left-click), it will outline in red. Now hold the CTRL button down and select all of the tracks that you want to know the total length of, then right-click and select length of selected track from the context menu.

 

Cars are 12",15" 18" 19" 21" and engines are 18" to 30". add'em up and compare to the track length.

 

Happy New Year to you and your family!

 

Sal,

   The 072 switches for the main line are good, remember if you use 036 for your yard and sidings there are some big engines you will not be able run thru them, its one of the reasons I use 048's for my sidings.  Also you want to know about certain track pieces, I recommend you look into purchasing a Rockwell X2 portable table saw for making custom FasTrack pieces at any length and radius you may need for planning your new layout.  These new X2 saws are just incredible for making FasTrack custom pieces. 

PCRR/Dave

 

Great, very light portable table saw, and the over head in the 2nd picture is completely removable while working/cutting custom FT pieces.  It's an under table mounted Jig Saw, that works at high speed and at any angle you need for making custom FasTrack pieces for building your layout.   No more looking for exacting FasTrack pieces, you simply cut your own with the BladeRunner X2

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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
I think I am going to go with O36 for the yard, if I go with O48 I lose a row and the track lengths are much shorter.  Do you have any pics of a cut piece of track? 
 
Originally Posted by Pine Creek Railroad:

Sal,

   The 072 switches for the main line are good, remember if you use 036 for your yard and sidings there are some big engines you will not be able run thru them, its one of the reasons I use 048's for my sidings.  Also you want to know about certain track pieces, I recommend you look into purchasing a Rockwell X2 portable table saw for making custom FasTrack pieces at any length and radius you may need for planning your new layout.  These new X2 saws are just incredible for making FasTrack custom pieces. 

PCRR/Dave

 

Great, very light portable table saw, and the over head in the 2nd picture is completely removable while working/cutting custom FT pieces.  It's an under table mounted Jig Saw, that works at high speed and at any angle you need for making custom FasTrack pieces for building your layout.   No more looking for exacting FasTrack pieces, you simply cut your own with the BladeRunner X2

DSCN0959

DSCN0960

 

Moonman...
 
I went on lionels website and in their track catalog the O72 switches seem to be at a different angle then the scram ones.  Seems like there is more track in the SCARM file.  Is this an error in SCARM?
 
Originally Posted by Moonman:

Looks good. You have to refit around the 072 switches. There is a 1 3/8" half-roadbed piece on the thru leg of the turnout end. The 1 3/8" no roadbed in between fit when the two turnouts are together, which you have in there already. They also have a jumper wire if you need to electrically isolate the two loops.

 

I am still not sure if you want to use 031 switches for the yard ladder.

 

Everything fits nicely, with the exception of the switch piece, so it will build as you have it.

 

Moonman

You are really excellent with that software stuff.

 

Salvagni

 

I have to just add some info for you. You have a nice layout  plan started. I wasted money with 036 switches. Even giving up space I think in switches bigger is better.

 

And, if you practice cutting some fastrack after a few times you will see how easy it is. Fastrack comes in all types of sizes but you can spend big bucks buying those small sizes. Been there done that. Learn to cut it and you will save money. It really is easy.

 

Good luck with your fun project.

 

Larry

Here is my latest and "greatest".  I know I am using O36 switches because I wanted more than 2 sidings on my layout plus I didn't want my reversing loops to be too large.  I want to have a trestle bridge in the back.  The long mountain area I plan on having a "waterfall" and being able to see the train go through the falls with the trestle bridge in the front. 

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Sal,

   That is a very nice FT layout, you may want to design some access panels into your mountain tunnel runs, in several places however.  You could also put a cross over in your right hand portion of the layout, adding a couple switches, if you want.  I would use Command Control 048 and larger switches thru out, Larry gives good advise about switch sizes, and then you have yourself a real nice custom layout, you can now make this happen fairly easy with the new Rockwell X2 Saw, when you need to make a few custom FasTrack pieces for your track design close out.  Real nice FT layout Sal.

PCRR/Dave

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

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