FASTRACK TRACK ACTIVATION SECTIONS

Since it's so easy to just do insulated track sections with standard Fastrack pieces, I've never been remotely tempted to spend more money for these.

Bought one of these kits early on in my Fastrack use.  Put them together and took them apart several times over the course of many years on my carpet layout.  When I finally built a real layout, I just rolled my own as I needed a few around the layout.  As GRJ says above, they are pretty simple to make your own.

Gary

Sorry to hear Guru that your activator pack had issues.  I have bought and used several with no problems.  Mine are probably 10-12 years old.  Maybe there is a problem with a new run of them.  Are you using the plug-n-play version or the traditional Fastrack?

Steims...No, I am not using the plug and play, but my dealer told me that this is new production for the traditional ones.  I think you are correct about a recent production problem.  I was completely flabbergasted when the center pins practically disintegrated into small bits.  What a shame.  Some other O Gauge friends have indicated that these are easy to make.  I watched a video and actually did one myself.  But easy?  After you loosen the tabs on the rails, if you are not very careful, you won't be able to get the rail to sit flush with the road bed when you attempt to put them back in.  I'm hoping I didn't make a mistake by going with Fastrack.  A part of me really wanted to stay with the traditional tubular.  As I said in my original post, so far I'm really loving the look. 

I'm planning on buying some starter sets this Xmas for my grandkids.  I think I may go with Williams starter sets and the traditional track.  It is likely that their parents will put these sets around the tree for a couple of years.  I'm thinking that the Fastrack pieces will not stand up to that.

Thanks again for responding (and thanks to everyone else too).

HR Guru posted:

 I watched a video and actually did one myself.  But easy?  After you loosen the tabs on the rails, if you are not very careful, you won't be able to get the rail to sit flush with the road bed when you attempt to put them back in.

There's no reason the track should lift by just removing the cross connectors, I've done dozens of them and I didn't even think about that issue.  It's actually harder than you think to lift the track up, that shouldn't be an issue.  Remember, you're only bending a couple of the tabs, not all of them.

He might be talking about lifting the rail to take the pin out. I usually just cut the pin or the rail with a Dremel.

I've also taken a number of pins out.  In that case, I do lift the rail, but you can use a rubber jaw vice to gently seat the rails after the surgery, I've never had any issue with that operation either.  I do confess, it takes longer than just removing the connecting bars, but it's no big deal.

Thanks GunRunner.  I can do that but I guess I'm stuck on why the system isn't simple enough that I should not have to.  I'm less of a builder and technician of layouts and more the type that just wants to run the trains.  Also I think the design engineers at Lionel should have anticipated the need for a simple track activation section with one isolated rail and good old fashioned fiber pins.  Remember those?  Easy peasy.   I have a few motion activated activation devices left over from my last layout.  I can use those.

Well, they do have Fastrack insulated rail sections, so they did somewhat anticipate it.  Personally, when I wanted an insulated track run, I either took the connector bars out or used the insulated track sections.  For the ends of the insulated section, I either use the Dremel to simply sever the track rail or lop off the connecting pin on that track segment.