I seem to be having a problem with my fastrack direct lockon (34120) and my uncoupling track. Basically, the circuit breaker trips (light turns red) when ever I push the uncouple button. I’m using a KW for track power set to 18 volts to operate my Lionchief Plus engines, everything else is operating just fine. The issue happens regardless if I have the uncoupling track powered from track power or auxiliary power (track power is from the “B” side and Aux is from the “A” side, set to 10 volts). If I take away the direct lockon (34120), which is protection for my new engines, everything works just fine - engines, switches, and uncoupling tracks! Is there something I missing? Or should I try a different CB set up? Happy to provide more information / pictures if needed. Thanks in advance!

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ZIRBEL227,

   Using the old KW for tack power get rid of the 34120 direct Lock on. Safe Guard your layout with a 10 Amp Resettable Breaker on your Red Middle Line, as we do with DCS /Legacy layouts.   Everything should work fine when you do, and the Resettable Breaker safe guards your layout.

PCRR/Dave

 

Never worry about what other people think, be strong and walk in the way of the Lord.

zirbel227 posted:

I seem to be having a problem with my fastrack direct lockon (34120) and my uncoupling track. Basically, the circuit breaker trips (light turns red) when ever I push the uncouple button. I’m using a KW for track power set to 18 volts to operate my Lionchief Plus engines, everything else is operating just fine. The issue happens regardless if I have the uncoupling track powered from track power or auxiliary power (track power is from the “B” side and Aux is from the “A” side, set to 10 volts). If I take away the direct lockon (34120), which is protection for my new engines, everything works just fine - engines, switches, and uncoupling tracks! Is there something I missing? Or should I try a different CB set up? Happy to provide more information / pictures if needed. Thanks in advance!

I assume that you have 6-34120.

Since the KW is 190W, do you have the internal switch at 180? It mat be tripping if it is on 135w.

A (Hot) and U(common) is correct or B/U with the variable voltage set to 18 volts for the KW

They are a fast breaker. I would try to discover how to make it happy. Or use a PSX-AC if you cannot.

Let me know what the setting is and if a change helps.

Carl

Arctic Railroad

Dave & Carl thanks for getting back to me!

I tried switching from 135 to 180, both with track power and aux power, it wasn’t happy with either... Any thought to trying a different transformer? I have a ZW I was planning on using when the layout got bigger. 

Thanks again for the help!

My experience with the TMCC Direct Lockon is that it's very sensitive to certain operation.  I have a few TMCC, and even one Legacy locomotive that will trip it just driving by.  That issue, coupled with the fact that it stomps on the MTH DCS signal convinced me to lose the and stick with the PH180 bricks.

Thanks for all the advice!

John, I know I could look up some older posts, but what size breaker, amp-wise, should I be looking for? 

Dave, my thinking exactly! I like the fixed volts on the KW, and I shouldn’t have any problem running my 5x9 layout with a ZW! Hopefully some day I’ll double the size! I’m working with a very temporary layout right now, planning on new bench work and a more permanent (for now) layout!

Thanks Again!

 

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I realize it's been a while since you posted your question, but I wanted to share this with you since I had the exact same situation and this solved the problem. You'll notice that the lockon shack does not trip when you press the uncoupling button but it's when you release the button that it breaks the circuit. Here's why: when the current to an electromagnetic coil is cut, there is a surge of current out of the coil that is much higher than the original voltage. These spikes are common problems in some motors and lots of relays.

A combination of a resistor and capacitor (R/C) in a bypass or shunt will prevent the spike and it's the spike that trips the lockon's sensitive electronics. Personally, I like the extra protection the lockon gives my expensive locomotive electronics, so I was very happy when this solution worked with 100% perfection.

I used a 0.1 MFD disc capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor. Solder the resistor and capacitor together and cover that common leg with shrink wrap or tape to prevent it from shorting against the center rail tab (see pic). Solder the resistor to the ground plate and the capacitor to the tab where one of the two black coil wires is soldered.

DCS_3479 [1)

I run my uncoupling tracks from a Lionel accessory transformer and set it very low so there's just a faint buzz when the car passes over. It's never tripped the lockon since I made the mod and the four uncoupling tracks all work perfectly. 

I don't understand all I know about that.

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