Skip to main content

Note: Please advise if I'm in the wrong forum for this question. 

 

I beg for your mercy as I'm a newbie (got my first train set in 30+ years in December - used PolEx).

 

I was doing a local pick-up of an ebay transaction (MTH billboard) and the seller offered me a RailKing Denver-Rio Grande 4-6-2 Pacific Steamer (PS1) while there. The seller was very nice but admittedly not into trains at all. He just buys collections at estate sales and sells stuff piece by piece. The loco was super clean but he warned me that it was a return due to the sound not working. Still, for the price, it was too tempting. Note that this is my first time even seeing a PS1 loco.

 

My "layout" is a loop of Fastrack on the living room carpet (from the PolEx) powered by a Z-1000 I got here on OGR. I let it charge in neutral for 30 min or so in case the battery was dead. The headlight was on while doing this. I then pressed the direction button and the train moved just fine. It reversed fine as well. I pressed the whistle and that worked. Pressing the bell button, however, did nothing. I looked in the manual and tried to understand how it was saying to do reset #18 (reset to default). I did the repeated raising and lowering of the track voltage but it seems to have done nothing (I didn't hear the "clink, clink" sounds the manual describes). 

 

I've done a bit of reading this afternoon and I saw recommendations to put in a new battery as soon as you buy an old PS1. Too late for that I guess! Based on what I've described, is there something more I can do to reset to default or do I need to find someone with a full DCS set-up (which I also read about)?

 

Many thanks,

James

Last edited by James in VA
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Jim,  Look in the tender and if the battery is white, go a head and change it.  You can use a new 9V alkaline temporarily.

 

Does your bell button work with other engines?

 

To do the reset, turn the track voltage up full and let the engine start up.  THe engine is in the reset mode.  Do you hear engine sounds?

 

Move the throttle down about 1/3 and back up near full.  Do you hear one ding?  If so do it again.  Should get 2 dings.  If so, keep doing it until you get 3 clanks and 3 dings.  At that point push the whistle and hold until you hear garbled and clear bell.  Let go of whistle button.  Press again for a second or two and release.

 

Now move throttle down to about 1/3 and press direction button and hold for 1 second and release engine should move with sounds.  Bell only works when engine is in fwd or neutral.  G

GGG,

 

Thanks so much for taking the time to reply! I'll have to open up the tender to check the battery when I get home from work. I've never opened up any train item but I'm guessing that shouldn't be too difficult. If the battery is white, what type would it be? Ni-MH rechargeable? If the existing battery is not white, what does that mean? If the new alkaline does the trick for now, I'll probably get a BCR while at York (just learned about those on Saturday from another OGR member).

 

Yes, the bell button does operate on other locos. Pending the alkaline battery working, I'll do the throttle manipulation as you described. Based on what I described in my first post, is there a chance that I inadvertently fried the PS1 board since I didn't replace the battery right off the bat?

 

Once again, I appreciate your help. Especially as a fellow Virginian! Oh, and I used to live right across the cotton field from you in Suffolk before moving up to Springfield (to stay employed). I miss the relative peace of Southern VA!

 

Gratefully,

James

Originally Posted by James in VA:
................. If the battery is white, what type would it be? Ni-MH rechargeable? If the existing battery is not white, what does that mean? If the new alkaline does the trick for now, I'll probably get a BCR while at York (just learned about those on Saturday from another OGR member)..............

If it's white, it's a Ni-Cd.  Ni-MH wasn't available as a consumer product yet when these locos were produced.

 

-Dave

Your welcome.  White is NiCad, the newer ones are Green NiMh.  As long as a good 8.4V rechargeable it doesn't really matter.


Since it is running I don't think it is scrambled.  The sequence has to be correct and it can only be done from Reset position.  Not neutral.

 

Reset is only there when you first apply power, and before you get the engine running.  G

GGG & Dave:

Well, I told you I was a clueless rookie! I believe that what I have is the loco and tender without PS1 from when PS1 was an option. Bummer!

 

Here was my first clue that something was amiss with my PS1. No battery!  

IMG_20150317_001810_rewind[1]

 

I then read the end of the box (sorry this is upside down) and saw the dreaded "optionally equipped." 

  

IMG_20150317_001915_rewind[1] 

Lastly, I saw the 30-1035:

http://www.mthtrains.com/30-1035

 

At least I now know that this is from a '97 RTR set. So I guess I'll just have the whistle? At least the smoker works well.

 

Best,

James

 

Attachments

Images (2)
  • IMG_20150317_001810_rewind[1]
  • IMG_20150317_001915_rewind[1]

James,  Yes That is the DCRU with whistle board.  It can be upgrade to PS-1.

 

Normally if the stock # is 30-xxxx-0 or no end # it is basic.

 

The 30-xxxx-1 normally had PS-1.  Same carries over for PS-2.  The end 0 was locosounds conventional, and -1 is PS-2.  

 

The good news it works as designed.  G

My sincere thanks again for the information! At least it is a pretty loco/tender and it came to me fairly inexpensively.

 

@RoyBoy: Out of curiosity, was it your preference to buy these whistle-only engines? I'd imagine that they are easy to come by these days and with steeply reduced prices. Keep in mind that I'm so new to this that I know precious little about what is desirable to which groups of collectors/operators.

Originally Posted by James in VA:

My sincere thanks again for the information! At least it is a pretty loco/tender and it came to me fairly inexpensively.

 

@RoyBoy: Out of curiosity, was it your preference to buy these whistle-only engines? I'd imagine that they are easy to come by these days and with steeply reduced prices. Keep in mind that I'm so new to this that I know precious little about what is desirable to which groups of collectors/operators.

Proto one got a bad reputation early in the game for being fussy to run with different transformers and for getting its brain scrambled when the battery got low. The whistle only versions ran perfectly all the time.

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×