Gargrave Track ?

Do not use nails. There are other methods but I use #4 Philip head screws. One inch to one and one quarter inch. Predrill with counter sink bit. They can be removed after you ballast, if you ballast.

Don has it right.  I use #4 x  1"  Twinthread Cabinet Screws.  They have dual direction threads, go in easy and hold tight.  They are available at True Value Hardware shops.

Thank You for the info.

Now do you predrill a hole before you run the screws in?

Thanks Again

You have to pre drill, and be careful when you do it, or you'll split the tie.

Greetings,

Is a #4 screw a common screw?

I did a search on True Value and Lowes and Amazon and the smallest I find is a #6.

 

Thanks All for the help!!!

You can buy the appropriate screws from most dealers who stock GarGraves track products, or order them directly from GarGraves.  They are available in at least a couple of lengths.

after drilling  through the wooden tie , drill  a little further into the table top  so the track doesn't raise up when putting in the screw. It has a tendency to lift  so you may have to hold it down.   After the first couple of screws it's a piece of cake.

Found them on GG's Web site.

 

Thanks Mr.Miller and every body who replied.

FWIW, this is what I use to hold my Gargraves track down. They may seem a little long at 1 5/8", but I use 1/2" fiberboard on top of 3/4" plywood. Sinking a short screw into the fiberboard has no grip. It needs to go into the plywood to hold. They're also cheaper by the pound.

I use 1/2" #2 wood screws with homasote. The screws are always contained in the track ties and homasote minimizing track sound.

Hot glue gun.

Screws.  This lets you remove track if necessary.  Be careful with countersunk screws, as the taper will split the tie if driven too tight.  I switched to pan head for that reason, but it does leave them visible & therefore unsightly.  An electric screw gun or drill, with clutch on weakest setting, lets you press down to avoid track lifting.  Avoid slotted screws--use phillips--to prevent tie-splitting slippage.

I use the Gargraves track screws and always pre-drill the holes for each screw.

All of our track was secured with 18ga brads. No need for screw heads showing even if you paint them. The brads get driven down into the tie with a center punch, and you never even notice them. You still have to pre-drill for the brads or the ties will split.

I buy my #4 screws at Sears Hardware.

Greetings All,

I am going to try Alex plus in a few spots in place of the hot glue suggestion and then a few #18 nails at the front middle and back of each track.

Can't wait to rip that scale trax out and start over again with GG track and Ross Switches :-)

As stiff as GG track is there should be no movement at all I hope ;-)