Greasing a 18009 Mohawk

If you don’t want to take the boiler off and remove the gearbox cover then greasing through the under body holes is the only way to do it. You’ll need a a way to squeeze lube into the hole, especially the hole under the worm gear. 

You can try what Rod said to do and see if you can squeeze grease from a small tube into the holes marked grease....I find that a lot of these Mohawks with their age, have the grease dried up in them. This makes it necessary to remove the worm gear cover and the worm shaft and clean out all that dried up gook for smooth performance......if you are uncomfortable doing that, then have it serviced by someone that can..........Pat  

romiller49 posted:

If you don’t want to take the boiler off and remove the gearbox cover then greasing through the under body holes is the only way to do it. You’ll need a a way to squeeze lube into the hole, especially the hole under the worm gear. 

Rod - will that grease I mentioned be OK?

harmonyards posted:

You can try what Rod said to do and see if you can squeeze grease from a small tube into the holes marked grease....I find that a lot of these Mohawks with their age, have the grease dried up in them. This makes it necessary to remove the worm gear cover and the worm shaft and clean out all that dried up gook for smooth performance......if you are uncomfortable doing that, then have it serviced by someone that can..........Pat  

Will that grease I mentioned be OK?

Ponz posted:

harmonyards posted:

You can try what Rod said to do and see if you can squeeze grease from a small tube into the holes marked grease....I find that a lot of these Mohawks with their age, have the grease dried up in them. This makes it necessary to remove the worm gear cover and the worm shaft and clean out all that dried up gook for smooth performance......if you are uncomfortable doing that, then have it serviced by someone that can..........Pat  

Will that grease I mentioned be OK?

Ain’t gonna hurt it, that’s for sure...your only problem is getting it out of the can and into the tiny hole.....most of us keep a small tube of grease, or what’s called a pin grease gun handy for such jobs.....any grease is better than dried up rocks........Pat

harmonyards posted:

Ponz posted:

harmonyards posted:

You can try what Rod said to do and see if you can squeeze grease from a small tube into the holes marked grease....I find that a lot of these Mohawks with their age, have the grease dried up in them. This makes it necessary to remove the worm gear cover and the worm shaft and clean out all that dried up gook for smooth performance......if you are uncomfortable doing that, then have it serviced by someone that can..........Pat  

Will that grease I mentioned be OK?

Ain’t gonna hurt it, that’s for sure...your only problem is getting it out of the can and into the tiny hole.....most of us keep a small tube of grease, or what’s called a pin grease gun handy for such jobs.....any grease is better than dried up rocks........Pat

Well, I found an applicator that worked.  She seems to be running a bit smoother, although it just might be my imagination.  I'll look again after some run time to see if she'll accept more grease.

Thank you

Ponz

Ponz posted:

harmonyards posted:

You can try what Rod said to do and see if you can squeeze grease from a small tube into the holes marked grease....I find that a lot of these Mohawks with their age, have the grease dried up in them. This makes it necessary to remove the worm gear cover and the worm shaft and clean out all that dried up gook for smooth performance......if you are uncomfortable doing that, then have it serviced by someone that can..........Pat  

Will that grease I mentioned be OK?

Ponz posted:

harmonyards posted:

You can try what Rod said to do and see if you can squeeze grease from a small tube into the holes marked grease....I find that a lot of these Mohawks with their age, have the grease dried up in them. This makes it necessary to remove the worm gear cover and the worm shaft and clean out all that dried up gook for smooth performance......if you are uncomfortable doing that, then have it serviced by someone that can..........Pat  

Will that grease I mentioned be OK?

I’ve used this grease for years. Never solidifies. Yours looks ok to me. You’ll need some type of dispenser. 

Don’t pump it to full John, it’ll start oozing out of wheel bearings and the gear box ends and sling everywhere.....and make s.........mess......Pat

harmonyards posted:

Don’t pump it to full John, it’ll start oozing out of wheel bearings and the gear box ends and sling everywhere.....and make s.........mess......Pat

Too late!  

Ain’t the end of the world John, wipe up what you can with q tips and rags and keep repeating until it settles down and stops spuin’ grease....you’ll be alright......she’s just pukin out what she don’t want..........Pat

Actually, if you want this engine to run right, you are less than halfway done. You really need to pull the shell and pull the motor. The bearings at both ends of the shaft where it goes through the motor mount are bone dry. You need to pull the bearings out, clean the gunk out of them and their housings, and repack with a high quality grease. You do this, and the engine will run forever. If you don't, you will find that after a half hour or so of steady running the voltage will need to be increased to keep the engine moving. Eventually it will barely crawl. Take it off and cool it down, and it will run again, for a while. Do the grease job, and it will stay running.

BTW, the early Reading T-1 has the same issue. It has the same drive mechanism.

Chris

LVHR

lehighline posted:

Actually, if you want this engine to run right, you are less than halfway done. You really need to pull the shell and pull the motor. The bearings at both ends of the shaft where it goes through the motor mount are bone dry. You need to pull the bearings out, clean the gunk out of them and their housings, and repack with a high quality grease. You do this, and the engine will run forever. If you don't, you will find that after a half hour or so of steady running the voltage will need to be increased to keep the engine moving. Eventually it will barely crawl. Take it off and cool it down, and it will run again, for a while. Do the grease job, and it will stay running.

BTW, the early Reading T-1 has the same issue. It has the same drive mechanism.

 

Chris

LVHR

I love the look of that T1.  I had to send one back because it was faulty.  I'm trying to find a schematic/diagram of this engine to no avail. 

Thanks - Ponz

Where can I find a diagram?  I'd like to open her up and look inside. I'm a bit leery without some instructions.

Ponz

Blow these up and use these.........Pat

Wow, what book is that, Pat?

Mark in Oregon 

Strummer posted:

Wow, what book is that, Pat?

Mark in Oregon 

It’s a book with words and pictures Mark.....ha ha ha......I couldn’t resist.......here ya go buddy....

Or, ya know, one could just pull-up the documents on Lionel's website:

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...161-8009Complete.pdf

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...8009-T01Complete.pdf

Should be fairly easy/straight forward to take the shell off and grease everything up. Remove the armature from the motor and grease the bearings. Pop the cover off the worm wheel and grease the worm and worm gear. Don't forget to oil the drive wheel bearings and the side rods. 

Everyone will give their opinion on grease and oil and what common stuff you can use from the auto parts/home improvement store. I stick with Labelle 106 grease and Labelle 107 oil. They are designed for models and work very well. It's more expensive per ounce than the adapted stuff but it's designed specifically for model trains. 

PaperTRW posted:

Or, ya know, one could just pull-up the documents on Lionel's website:

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...161-8009Complete.pdf

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...8009-T01Complete.pdf

Whenever I typed in 6-18009 in their support page, the engines does not come up