Great Northern railway

Another video from Joe on the 1309:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZS4G_vHw04

Repairing the UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported in 1999 (cont).

I took some 'time' from watching college football to work on this engine.

Tender.

A good size dent on the left side of the tender.

My initial 'instinct' was to 'beat' on it with a hammer from the inside but that 'thought' disappeared quickly.

I needed a lot of pressure so I used a C clamp and some wood to prevent leaving 'marks' on the brass surface.

I applied some heat from my 'heat shrink' gun and let it 'set' for a few hours.

The head caused the wood to stick to the paint and remove some of it but the tender is going to be 'stripped' anyway.

I couldn't see the dent anymore but I could feel a very small bump inside the tender wall...

I decided to use metal with the C clamp as it wouldn't 'give' like wood does.

That worked well as no 'bump' is felt inside the tender wall.

The front ladders were 'bent in' slightly but easy to straighten via the 'fingers'.

The back of the tender is going to be a problem.

There is access to the inside but it is limited as another piece of brass supports that area.

It would be nice to remove the back of the tender but I wouldn't be able to re-solder it from the inside and the 'soldering from the outside' would be messy.

I may have to 'bondo' the back and reapply rivets.

I have 2-part bondo that I, normally, use when I build my RC airplanes.

---------------

Boiler.

The bottom of the front of the smoke box was bent 'in' but an easy 'fix' with some needle nose pliers.

Boiler front fits nicely.

With this 'number plate' will have to decal this engine as '3985'.

==========

The 'elephant in the room'!

The 'overhang' on the cab is badly bent.

First, I used a piece of wood to push down on the 'bend'.

This didn't move it very far but it allowed me to use other tools on it.

Like the tender I figured a C clamp would give me plenty of 'power' to straighten the cab roof.

I used a piece of wood to keep from damaging the brass as the C clamp has a hole in the middle of the 'pad'.

After getting the roof 'kinda'  straight, I used the resistance soldering iron to remove the metal strip along the back of the roof that helps divert smoke from the cab.

A brass wire brush in a Dremel was used to 'clean up' the area so I can better evaluate my progress.

There was a small 'bump' in the center that needed 'work'.

I thought my small hammer with a brass end would work but 'changed my mind' as the C clamp worked much better, again.

Also, I used the 'stain glass' pliers with the curved jaws to help form the roof.

I need to get the 'overhang' to be parallel to the rest of the roof.

Tools of the 'trade'.

One of my old body tools and the modeling hammer was used to curve the outside area of the roof figuring it would raise the center of the roof.

It didn't 'work'.

One of my other 'body tools' may work but that's for another 'day'.

============

Gettin' lazy in my old age.

Usually, I install marker lights on all my cabeese so my signaling system knows when the train has left it's respective block.

I thought I'd try this 30 second method and just add a 1000 OHM resister to a truck and turn one wheel 180 degrees to make 'contact' with both rails (assuming your truck is plastic and not metal).

I had to add another resister for my 'signaling system' would 'notice it'.

Needed a cabeese for my NH electrics that Rapido 'brought out' this year.

==========

Bob stopped by with his friend, Jim from Detroit, to visit the layout.

'Cabeese' enhancements.

Added resistors to the remaining 'cabeese' that I obtained in the last few months at train shows.

One 2K resistor would work but I only had 1K so I soldered them in parallel.  These are needed to let the LCC signaling system know when a train has left a block.

The trucks are metal so I had to keep the insulated part of each wheel sets on the 'same side'.

Some very thin wire wrapped around each axle.

Drilled holes in the wood frame and routed wires from the resistors to each truck.

This is an all wood, either Silver Streak or Ambroid, and it can't be disassembled to insert any 'lighted' marker lights on the caboose.

Each caboose checked to insure it 'triggers' the LCC 'detection' system high lighting in red.

==========

When the trucks are just plastic, I just reversed one wheel set in each truck and wrapped the resistor around each axle.

Most of the wheel sets were insulated on both sides so I had to replace them with Intermountain wheels sets.

I've had this B&O caboose for a few years but I couldn't figure out how to disassemble it for marker lights.

Just adding the resistors to the trucks allows it to be functional on the layout.

The caboose is really nicely detailed and made by Spring Mills.

Not as 'cool' as having lighted marker lights but, at least, the new 'cabeese' are functional for the signaling system.

Was going to add resistors to this caboose but it has 'squared off' axles and rotating 'Timkin' bearings so it's a 'no go'.

Very nicely detailed caboose.

Lots of 'stuff' on the bottom that one never sees!

Nice 'see through' walk ways.

Another all wood caboose.

I really didn't 'need' the newly acquired GN 'cabeese' as I, already, have plenty of them but whoever built them did too 'nice of a job' to not purchase them!

Seattle's caboose track.

St. Paul's caboose track.

Newly 'enhanced' 'cabeese'.

All 'non GN' 'cabeese' are located 'off' the layout.

Nice techniques to straighten the challenger.  That’s a lot of cabeese!!

Thanks Mark,

Once in awhile I get something 'right'!

================================

Repairing the UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported in 1999 (cont).

Spent most of the day with my daughter but got 'some done'.

I figured I could raise the back of the cab roof if I could bend the center and that would force it 'upwards'.

I taped two small pieces of wood to the top outside edge of the 'stain glass' pliers and one small piece of wood to the bottom of the pliers.  I tested this 'theory' on a piece of scrap brass and it seemed to work.

Before.

After.

It did help a lot.

I files away some of the solder that secured the 'smoke deflector'.

There's still some 'dents' in the roof. 

I'm guessing I won't be able to remove all of them so my next step will be to put solder in the 'dents' and then file it smooth and then re-add the rivets. 

Looks pretty good from the 'rear'.

Several items.

Repairing the UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported in 1999, CNJ 4-6-4T arrived, more conifers arrived and Ross Club pictures.

==================

Repairing the UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported in 1999 (cont).

Smoothing out the cab roof.

Decided to used solder to fill in the 'bad spots' on the cab roof.

Used a 'test piece' of brass before 'working' on the cab.

Coated the 'test' brass with some flux after cleaning the surface.

Initially, tried the 'resistance' soldering but that didn't work well so I used the Weller's 'station' with a large 'tip'.

The solder flowed well onto the 'test' surface.

After filing, there was a hole in the solder so I added more solder.

I was able to get a smooth surface so onto the 'real thing'.

Before:

Lots of 'dents' to 'fill in'.

Wrapped a wet towel around the engine to help contain the 'heat'.

Added a layer of solder over the area and then another layer over those 'dents'.

First some 220 on a paint stick to remove the 'bulk' of solder; then a fine file to smooth the surface.

Finally, some wet 220 sandpaper to make it really smooth.

It looks good but, from experience restoring old cars and building my airplanes, I'll have to add primer to that area and sand the primer to get a nice smooth finish.

==============

'Smoke deflector' added.

I used large tin snips to cut about a 3/32" wide piece of brass for the 'smoke deflector'.

Soldered one piece to the test brass to insure it 'works'.

The tin snips 'curled' the brass, which was good, since it has to conform to the roof.

I pre-tinned the 'smoke deflector'.

Best way to hold the 'smoke deflector' but need some insulation from the 'heat'!

After soldering the 'smoke deflector' which protruded on both sides of the roof, I cut and filed the ends of the 'smoke deflector'.

===================

Tender.

Stripped the paint off the tender.  Tenshodo uses lacquer paint on their engines.

Went quickly using a 'black bristle' brush and the air compressor.

One jar to get most of the paint off and a second 'clean' jar to insure all residue is removed.

Glad I keep all those empty glass jars!

Right side.

The left side still has a very faint 'dimple' where there was a dent.

Probably will use primer to fill it 'in'.

The back of the tender, yet, has to be fixed.  Either bondo or solder: will have to 'sleep on it'.

==================

New arrival.

Central New Jersey 4-6-4T imported by PFM (United) in 1969.

Had to get this engine since it's unusual with no tender.

Comes in a 'shay' size box.

Nicely detail, especially for a model that is 53 years old!

Fortunately, I was able to get decals of it.

It appears the engine has been in the box all it's life!

Back truck is insulated and is the 'tender' version of providing the 'ground' side.

Looks new!

cool: there is a pilot for the back of the engine.  Has 2 screws to secure it to the engine.

I read awhile ago that CNJ didn't 'turn' the engines but just ran them 'back wards' to 'save time'.

================

More trees arrived.

10 boxes of 5.5" conifers.  20 per box.

Still have 6 more boxes of the variable size trees; 40 per box, yet to arrive.

Separating them produces a lot of 'needles'!

====================

Ross Club meeting.

Videos:

Milwaukee S-3 4-8-4 passenger train at Tye:

Engine imported by BLI and passenger cars by Walthers.

Love those 'port hole' windows and 'beaver tail' observation car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox_1TupbLW4

Milwaukee S-3 departing Whitefish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrLREdoRZyc

Erie Triplex 2-8-8-8-2 imported by MTH.

Stopping at Hillyard due to a red signal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nxibn2NhXGM

Erie Triplex at Skykomish.

Havre.

Chumstick canyon trestle.

Milwaukee S-3 at Willmar.

AHHH: new trees make the picture look better!

Waverly.

St. Paul.

Waverly.

Joe dispatching.

Bob doing some 'switching'.

Repairing the UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported in 1999 and PM the CNJ 4-6-4T imported in 1969.

==============

UP 4-6-6-4 challenger.

Tender:

There was a dent on the side of the tender plus multiple dents on the rear of the tender.

I removed most of the dent on the side of the tender but there was one small dent that could be seen when 'angled just right'.

I figured a really small round piece of brass would remove the small dent.

I cut about an 1/8" piece from some brass sheeting and taped it over the small dent.

Again, I used two metal pieces and a C clamp to put pressure on the small piece of brass.

That seemed to work as I can't see the small dent anymore.

==========================

Dents on the rear of the tender.

Eureka!

I used the inner support wall, that is about a 1/4" away from the rear of the tender to my 'advantage'.

I used a hobby screw driver to push on the inside of the rear of the tender and used the inner wall as a 'fulcrum'.

I used my fingers to hold the edges of the rear of the tender while pushing on the 'dents'.

Before:

After.

I, also, used some needle nose pliers along the bottom of the tender.

Drilled some holes in the marker lights for LED's.

============================

CNJ 4-6-4T PM.

Replacing the motor.

Open frame.

Can motor with new universal tubing.

Some 'house' caulk to secure the can motor to a removable motor mount base.

Some tape to insure the caulk doesn't adhere to the frame.

Let that 'cook' overnight.

MMMM: 11 hours fixing a shop vac and working on trains: guess it's time to eat!

Sam, it is great seeing how you fix these engines!  53 years old and looking great!

Looks like a fun time with the Ross folks.

Thanks Mark.

It keeps me off the streets at night!

==============================

Repairing the UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported in 1999  and more conifers planted.

==============

Tenshodo UP challenger repair:

Stripped the paint off the boiler.

Steam dome and oil cover for tender.

Mixed up some of my 2 part primer.

Primer on the back of the tender and cab roof overhang.

plus over the dent on the side of the tender to insure it's not visable.

Primer reveals 'flaws'.

Cab roof.  I masked off the 'areas' to reduce 'over spray'.

Cooked in my toaster oven for 2 hours at 200 degrees.

Wet sanded with 600 grit.

Water reflecting the 'light' in the lower left hand corner.

Tender 'dent' seems 'good'.

Drilled hole in 'back head' for LED.

=================

The remaining 6 boxes of trees arrived.

5 boxes are just the large trees (5.5").

I bought one box of 80 trees that were 'different' from the other purchases.

More trees added to Willmar.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

Same picture but I 'straightened' the yellow trees!

That just 'gobbled up' 7 boxes of trees.

Just ordered another 10 boxes so total of 1200 trees, so far!

That’s a lot of trees!!  

Repairing the UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported in 1999.

Unfortunately, I had to strip the new paint as I 'strayed' from my usual 'painting routine'.

Taping off the boiler and tender plus paper towels when applying the 'primer' left 'tape residue and paper dust' on the engine and tender.  Noticed it after applying the first coat.

This picture is after the parts were stripped and the first coat of paint applied, again!

'Tools of the trade'.

My 50 year old Binks air brush; we've, probably, painted over a hundred engines over the last 50 years!

High gloss.

After the first paint application I applied 'rivets' to the part of the cab roof that was damaged.

These are 'rivet' decals.

My 50 year old Solvaset bottle, finally, 'ran out'!

The new bottle should last until I 'croak'!

I use a very soft brush to apply the Solvaset.

One long set of rivets perpendicular to the cab roof and 2 short sets of rivets parallel to the roof.

2nd coat of black paint.

2 hours at 200 degrees.  Old toaster over works great.

Best not to use the 'oven' in the kitchen as the 'dial' could, accidentally, be turned 'up'.

No need to re-paint the 'running gear'.

===============

Unpacked the remaining boxes of trees.

I'm 'environmentally friendly'!

320 more conifers planted

BEFORE: Left to right.

AFTER:

Most of the 'golden rod' was removed.

Left of the new 'plantings' that I 'planted' previously.

Ran out of trees at this location.

Got 10 more boxes arriving.

Moved 3 of my 18" 'pines' behind the Tumwater canyon trestle.

Out with the 'old'!

The Ross club members took my last batch of boxes that the trees arrived 'in'.

Hopefully, they'll want 'more'!

7 boxes were used.

Dayton, Ohio train show.

Miles: 40

Fairgrounds.

First building.

All SP.

Something different: ponds.

Marklin catenary set.

Rocky owner of Dixie Union station hobby shop in Mason, Ohio.

Tracy and John owners of Hamilton Hobbies hobby shop.

Impressive builder of very large buidings.

Second building: mostly layouts.

Cigar box.

Booty.

5 bucks, each, for two of them and 10 for the other.

Flat car loads.

Frustration: 3 hours to locate a simple short!

3 of my 9 circuit breakers (CB) was 'shorting' (they are all on the same 'booster')

Besides 'on/off' toggles 'leaving' from each CB, I, also, have toggles along the facia to turn power 'on/off' to different tracks.

In the 'past' I had a short in the Seattle's yard where a turnout was shorting due to a 'frog'.

I started by turning off toggles to all the tracks in the yard but nada.

I turned off the 'main' toggle to Seattle's yard on the old 'control board' and the short disappeared.

OK, I surmise the problem is in the Seattle's yard.

After  extension checking I could find no problems so I routed the D1 (Seattle) CB to a spare CB.

Continues on 3rd picture.

Previously, I had trouble with shorts with all these turnouts but they checked out OK.

I connected the spare CB to D1 and all was working well so I figure the CB went 'bad'. I used alligator clips for temporary 'checks'.

One 'booster' goes to 3 blocks (D1, D6 and D9) so I needed to route the 'booster' to the spare CB for D6 and D9 but I got a 'short' again.

D6 is the St. Paul yard and this was causing the short so now I had to diagnose the St. Paul yard.

I put the wires back to the original CB for D1.

Since I route 2 wires (the bottom 2 on the left side of the CB) from D1 to D6, the D6 short was causing D1 to 'blink red' for a 'short'.

This is the main 'terminal strip' for the St. Paul yard.

I started disconnecting 'output' wires until the 'short' stopped.

This area of the St. Paul yard, now, had to be diagnosed.

I found no problems so disconnect wires leading from this area to the roundhouse.

I checked the 'lead tracks' going to the round house and all was 'good'.

I then turned off the toggles leading to the turntable and round house tracks and the round house tracks were causing the short.

After 3 hours I found out that one of the tender trucks was off the track and causing the short

After all the 'analysis' it made sense since 'logic dictated' that if I turn off the toggle to the 'affected' area, the short should have 'reset'.  I just didn't turn off enough toggles.

Also, I failed to realize that  removing the 'power' to D1 also removed power to D6.

I leave a couple tracks 'ON' for visual effects with all the LED's on the engine which was my 'down fall'!

Ugh!

SAMPERFITT, you are a courageous person!

Congrats on your tenacity !!!!

Repairing the UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported in 1999 (cont).

Making an 'elephant ear'.

I had one Tenshodo 'elephant ear' that I acquired back in the 80's which I used as a template to make the opposite side part.

I 'scratched' an outline on some brass sheeting using the existing 'smoke deflector', used tin snips to cut the straight edges and then used files to 'round'  the two top ends to match the existing 'smoke deflector'.

I used a wide 'vise grips' to hold the top of the 'smoke deflector' to a piece of metal pipe and bent the sheet metal.

Soldered an 'L' brass piece to the 'smoke deflector'.

Used tin snips to cut some thin pieces from some brass sheeting for the upper support 'arms'.

After soldering the support arms, I used some 'dividers' to insure all support arms are the same length ( more accurate when you don't measure!).

Hard part done.

==========

Drill holes to secure to 'running boards'.

Used a sprung center punch to insure the drill bit doesn't 'wander'.

Hobby drill press.

Used a popsicle  stick for 'support'.

Used the 'smoke deflector' to drill the holes in the 'running boards'.

One hole drilled, tapped and 'smoke deflector' attached before drilling the 2nd hole.

A little black paint over the bare brass.

======

Cleaned and painted them.

Both painted to insure the grey paint matches the boiler with the same black 'sub base'.

Brass screws, also, painted.

It took a total of 5 hours to accomplish this task.

============

Figure I'd better run the 'track cleaner' over the layout after installing 800 trees as some 'pine needles' fall off the conifers while 'planting' them.

Trains looks much better with the new conifiers.

Got 800 more trees arriving; hopefully, that will be sufficient!

===========

New magazine arrived:

Sam,

Great work!  Thanks for the tutorial.

Where did you get all of those trees?

Thanks,

Ed

Thanks, Ed.

https://www.eve-modeler.com/

Ross club meeting.

videos:

SF PA A-B-B-A freight drag at Marias pass.

The 'bulk' of the freight cars are vintage metal Athearn/Varney and wood Silver Streak/Ambroid kits.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udjLpjeTCKg

Tumwater canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaPO4xiYfGQ

NH EP-5 electric freight at Tumwater canyon trestle.

The freight cars are Mark's.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGyKsgcgqnw

Gerry with the SF PA's.

Chumstick canyon trestle.

Waverly.

Willmar.

NY EP-5 electric at Willmar.

Some of Mark's 'rolling stock'.

Skykomish.

Seattle's freight yard.

The Ross gents may have found a home!  😄

Repairing the UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported in 1999 (cont).

Prep for painting the UP 2-tone grey colors.

===========

Painting is easy, the hard part is the 'prep'!

Masking.

'Tools of the trade'.

Regular masking tape, glass, metal straight edge, toothpick to 'lay down' the tape, X-acto knife, small scissors for cutting excess tape on the model and tweezers.

Masking tape is 'flexible' when cut in narrow strips.

Some tape has to be less than a 1/16" wide.

Tender.

Only way to have grey behind the ladder is to mask it 'off'!

It took 4 hours to mask the parts. 

Hah: and my daughter says I have no 'patience'!

Ready to be painted.

I've been waiting 4 months for my paint to arrive from Minuteman so I decided to 'google' the paint that I needed.

Surprisingly, I found most of the paint.

Also, I was surprised at how much Scalecoat paint the Walther's had.

Besides the UP harbor mist (for the lighter grey) I also purchase EL gray and NYC grey, just to be 'safe' on the 'color tone'.

Looking at the bottoms I thought the EL grey (left bottle) looked best versus the more darker UP grey (right bottle), but...

I got my KEY 2-tone grey and it matches the UP harbor mist so I used it.

Painting completed.

All tape removed before baking the paint as there is always some 'overspray'.

Toothpick is good at getting the edge of the tape from the part without scratching the surface and then the tweezers can be used.

Since the 'overspray' hasn't 'cooked' yet, it is easy to remove with 'spit' and a toothpick and/or a Q-tip.

All piping is hand painted as it won't show 'brush marks'.

Some 'brush' painted will be needed to make the rungs all black.

2 hours at 200 degrees.

Walther's list of paint that I purchased.

Some is water base as I should be able to apply over an 'oil base' ie the black paint.

Paint for the CNW streamlined engine.

Paint for the GTW streamlined engine.

=================

Had one signal block that was not working properly.

Joe came over and we resolved the problem in about 2 hours (counting software changes).

Tried different 'methods' but, finally, had to use a different 'port' as I'm guessing the 'old port' had a defect in the wires 'leading' to it ('wires' being those on the circuit board).

Looking good!

Thanks, Mark.

=======================

Painting a Virginian EL-2B set of electrics imported by Custom Brass in 1980.

Have to wait for delivery of the UP dark grey to arrive to finish painted the UP challenger so onto the next project.

Back in July this set was purchased.

The set I have is unpainted.

This is what I'm hoping they will look like when I finish painting them!

All the 'tower' gears where white nylon and were cracked so the engine did not operate.

Fortunately, NWSL had made 'special' gear sets for this engine so I replaced them.

They run well, now.

Decals are very difficult to locate but I managed to find them in 2 different sets.

I'll be using the decal labeled 'VIRGINIAN' but not the stripes as those will be painted.

Some dish washing fluid to clean the parts.

painting:

For the stripes.

One yellow line along the 'number plates' and one along the base of the engine.

The last electric I painted was, probably, the GN W-1.

The yellow as applied first and then the rest of the colors.

Yellow and red are difficult colors to get good 'coverage' so those, usually, are applied 'first'.

=========

While the yellow paint is 'cooking' in the toaster oven;

Disassembly.

I have little experience painting electrics (and none for painting diesels) so everything is labeled to insure all parts are reassemble as them 'came apart'.

Label the A unit and the B unit, then  the first 'engine set' as '1' or '2' and then each truck as 'F' and 'R' (front and back).

I put scotch tape over the labels so I can remove the scotch tape after the paint obscures the labels.

Each truck has it's own 'contact wires' so another 'reason' for labeling all parts.

A unit labeled.

B unit labeled.

I, always, work on motive power with the front facing to the left so the B unit is no exception.

As with the steam engines everything 'in order'.

Parts ready to be cleaned and then painted.

Painting a Virginian EL-2B set of electrics imported by Custom Brass in 1980 (cont) and more conifers arrived.

The units get 2 yellow stripes.

I used a divider to mark the back of the engine to insure the line is parallel to the bottom of the engine.

A small 'scratch mark' is sufficient.

Dividers, again, to get the correct width of the 'number boards' that the yellow stripe matches.

Had to get a larger piece of glass so I could have one continuous piece of tape.

Used a piece of paper to slide under the 'hand rails' to pull the tape under them, versus over the 'hand rails' as less likely to get paint 'bleeding'.

Care taken to not stretch the tape and reseal all edges 2-3 times with fingers and tooth pick.

Of course one 'rung' is at the same location to the yellow stripe.

Some extra small pieces of tape used to seal the edges.

My 'go to' black paint; high gloss.

Tape removed before 'cooking'.

Tape pulled off at a 'low angle' to insure not pulling any newly wet paint from the surface.

A few 'over sprays'; again, a wet tooth pick to remove the excess paint.

==============

8 more boxes of conifers; 40 per box.

Surprised that they 'seal' them so robustly!

I like the look of your trees in previous photos, are they ready made?

@Genemed posted:

I like the look of your trees in previous photos, are they ready made?

I have 'tons' of different trees. You'll have to be more specific on which picture/post.

A 'copy/paste' will work.

Painting a Virginian EL-2B set of electrics imported by Custom Brass in 1980 (cont).

Painted these engines in 2 stages.

The first was the super structure.

The second is the 'running gear'.

There's so many parts that I wanted to keep everything in it's respective order for assembly.

Used some of my RC airplane 'mold release' on the contact wires on each truck.

Hopefully, it makes for easy removal of paint as I didn't want to put tape on them for fear of damaging them.

The parts that can't be 'cooked' in the toaster oven stays in the box top for painting.

All critical areas were taped to keep paint off of them.

Did 2 'coats' tonight as it's suppose to rain tomorrow plus get cold.

All painting is done in the detached shop; I've got a torpedo heater.

It cost about 10 bucks to heat per day: not bad for a day or two but not every day for a month!

The 'motor' assemblies can't be seen so no need to paint them.

================

Decaling.

Tools of the trade.

These engines are 42 years old so I had to find 2 decal sets for this engine; which isn't 'easy'!

The Champ decal 'Virginian' was way too short but I found another set of decals that had the proper 'spacing'.

Unusual in that one side gets 'Virginian' and..

the other side gets "VGN'.

Glad I obtained 2 sets of these decals.

In the past I've had some Champ decals disintegrate and the older set (top in picture) did 'just that'.

The 'flying' yellow lines are suppose to be parallel to the bottom yellow line but we can't get 'picky' with 40 year old engines and decals plus there were very few of these engines made!

The last decal to add is the 'number boards'.

They only had 4 sets of these electrics and they only lasted about 10 years before being scrapped.

@samparfitt posted:

I have 'tons' of different trees. You'll have to be more specific on which picture/post.

A 'copy/paste' will work.

I’m referring to either one of these.
Gene

Gene,

Those were purchased from Evemodels:

https://www.eve-modeler.com/

They vary from about 1.5" to 5.5" and came 40 to a box.

The large ones I made.

Painting a Virginian EL-2B set of electrics imported by Custom Brass in 1980 (cont), more conifers and testing passenger cars.

===============

Applying the 'clear' finish.

Had to cover the tray with aluminum foil to get to the detached shop as it was raining.

The satin gives the a look of an engine that has been operating about a month.

It also seals all the decals and protects the paint.

Running gear as well as the trucks, etc. 'clear' coated. 

Removing the scotch tape allowed me to identify the parts.

A popsicle stick and an X-acto blade used to scrape off the paint from the contact wires.

Truck parts as well as the super structure was baked for 2 hours at 200 degrees.

===================

8 boxes arrived of the remaining 20 boxes were open and 'preped'. 

BEFORE:

Old trees (golden rod) removed.

AFTER.

Took about 5 boxes.

Will need the 'top side' creeper to finish the rest of the mountain to the right.

=================

Gerry brought some passenger cars to test.

An old Walther's passenger car kit with wood roof and base and metal sides.

Someone spent a lot of time on the interior detailing.

The paint job on the Virginian is looking great, as are the mountains growing trees!

@samparfitt posted:

Gene,

Those were purchased from Evemodels:

https://www.eve-modeler.com/

They vary from about 1.5" to 5.5" and came 40 to a box.

The large ones I made.

Thank you

SWOOPS.

swoops is for 'out of towners' to visit local Cincinnati, Ohio layouts on a week end.

A very nice group arrived at my house Saturday night.

I, thoroughly, enjoyed having them visit.

If my 'old brain' remembers correctly, they were from Georgia, St. Louis, Tennessee, Alabama and Wilmington, Ohio and Dayton, Ohio.   

I may have 2 new 'operators' from the Ohio cities especially since one has a passenger train that he would like to operate.

Of course I had to 'show off' all my new conifers

Also the LCC dispatcher's panel and signaling system and my two wood trestles that I built 60 years ago when I was '16' and all 'hand laid' rail on individual wood ties.

video:

GN P-2 4-8-2 freight drag at Marias pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWR4hZqD2EE

A very friendly group arrived.

GN R-2 2-8-8-2 freight drag and GN S-2 4-8-4 passenger train.

My new trees!

GN R-2 at Waverly.

GN S-2 at Havre.

GN R-2 at Marias pass.

OOPS: got a 'new' tree to 'fix'!

GN N-3 2-8-8-0 at Hillyard.

GN S-2 on my 60 year old trestles.

Meet at Hillyard.

Paul getting a GN P-2 4-8-2 train 'ready' to depart Seattle's freight yard.

GN P-2 leaving Seattle's freight yard.

GN N-3 at Hillyard.

Brian from Tennessee operating the GN R-2.

Brian enjoyed taking the incoming 'cabeese' and 'turning them around' on the turn table so they will be 'oriented correctly' for the next train.

=================

That morning I added more conifers.

Before with the old 'golden rod'.

Golden rod removed.

Conifers 'planted'.

'Getting there'!

Got 12 more boxes of 'trees' arriving in 2-3 weeks to finish this area...

and this area.

This Waverly area is done.

After 'planting trees' I'm glad I used the 'track cleaning' car on the mainline as some 'pine needles' got on the track under the 'mountain'.

First 'snow fall' of this season.  About an inch but it didn't 'stick' to the roads as it was around 70 a few days ago.

Local squirrel doesn't mind me giving him a water tray, peanuts and left over parts of strawberries, apple cores, etc.!

Every day he comes to the screen door and looks in saying "HEY where's my food!".

That’s great you got to meet modelers from other places.  Great they got to see the layout!

Trees!  So many of us never get to the point of approaching enough trees

NMRA MCR DIV 7 meeting and some post layout PM work.

After the meeting an excellent presentation by Stephen Priest on 'creating urban scenery' and then we visited 2 layouts.

Info on Sintra board that Stephen uses:

https://www.printmoz.com/blog/...-board-vs-foam-board

Model and photo contest.

Larry Goodridge's layouts.

He has several from HO to 3-rail.

Living and dining room:

Sorry for the blurry pictures!

Basement 3-rail.

'Turn of the century' layout.

Other side of basement is another 3-rail layout.

Larry is, also, an artist.

Very nicely painted B-17 'side gunners'.

===========

Bob Kress's layout.

======================

Some post PM work on my layout after SWOOPS.

I thought this GN R-2 2-8-8-2 was shorting but it must of been one of the freight cars as I found no problems!

Another GN R-2 had a screw come loose on the valve linkage.

Most engines have rivets securing the linkages but Tenshodo uses screws so it was an easy fix.

The 'incoming escape' tracks for the motive power was 'dead'.

I connected my 'audio' alarm to the tracks so I could tell when I found the 'problem'.

I had to feed a new 'ground' wire to the tracks.

Some of the turnouts in the Seattle's freight yard was not conducting electricity.

Some needed 'cleaning'.

Another needed 'adjusting' of the 'choke cable'.

Just had to move the screw holding the other end of the choke cable on the 'underside' of the layout.

Two couplers had to be re-glued.

A different perspective of the layout from the 'back side'.

Seattle's  roundhouse and freight yard.

The 'far right' turnout and track leads to the new passenger yard as the 'old' passenger yard only had 2 tracks.

Wow!  Larry has trains everywhere.  Bob’s layout looks nice!  

@samparfitt,

Thank you for sharing this.  The layouts are amazing. I typed in the MNRA MCR Div 7 and discovered they are in Cincinnati.  That is a little too far for me to visit.  Certainly, respect the photos.

Lots of 'stuff':

Virginian EL-2B electrics assembly, turning 3 passenger trains 'around' and Ross meeting.

Virginian EL-2B electrics assembly.

Need to combine this....

with this!

Assembling the 4 trucks to each 'power unit' insuring 'contact' wires are properly oriented.

While pulling off the tape that kept the center brass from getting paint 'on it', the 'contact' wire went 'flying' to 'who knows where' so a new piece of brass wire was soldered to the truck.

Insulation washers have different size 'collars' so need to use them in the appropriate locations.

Ditto on the screws.

One 'power unit' done.

One electric done. Next: insure all's run 'well' on the track.

=============

Reversing passenger car sets via the mainline.

GN S-2 4-8-4 brass hybrid by BLI.

Videos:

Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIhjKSP2dvc

Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXmS3JysdBc

Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bphkWsTTQsM

Willmar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GL8BzXIhGAM

Glacier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USO9hXAWmz4

Approaching Hillyard;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J489E9NhuTw

Waverly.

===============

UP E-6 A-B-B passenger train by BLI.

Videos:

Waverly:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZnukTkgU6E

Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLIhB-gANyg

Hillyard.

================

GN Z-6 4-6-6-4 by Tenshodo.

Video:

Testing the decoder as it's 'clicking' so, probably, needs replacing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiT7c4CPjKQ

========

Parked the two GN R-2's after the PM.

==============

Milwaukee bi-polar electric by MTH with powered pantographs and cast metal superstructure.

Videos:

Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apjEYKtNxg0

Waverly:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9mlf55b2uA

Tumwater canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cmw7NE7nQD0

Havre:

Basin tunnel.

Waverly.

Jerry operating the Milwaukee bi-polar.

Willmar.

Bob operating the Erie Triplex 2-8-8-8-2 by MTH with cast metal boiler and tender.

Videos:

Departing Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UraTFldDkgw

Waverly:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zF-IMDq-6rA

St. Paul:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1p7KvwoK-A

Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6pQG46SOEg

Seattle.

Hillyard.

Skykomish.

Bob operating the Erie Triplex.

Some 'switching'.

===============

Jerry operated the GN RDC-3 by Hallmark. Silver coating over the brass so I didn't have to paint it.

Video:

Departing Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzRzfEzYKtw

Tye.

Front view.

TCS Kam-4 decoder with LED's installed.

Rear view.

Trainfest video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSLWc2m8vVI