Has anyone ever installed an Electric RR Cruise Commander in an MTH Premier F3 with PS 1.0? 

You can download the manual from electricrr.com. There are terminals for "front light", "rear light" and "feature". Feature can be cab lights, mars lights, or smoke unit depending on how you program it. The outputs are designed to drive 12v lamps. If these engines have smoke units you would want to find fixed power for the cab lights. If no smoke unit, you can use the feature output for the cab lights. To drive the lamp on the rear headlight from the board in the front unit you would need a tether. Or you can use a mini commander EX board to drive the lights and couplers in the trailing A unit.

Pete

Roger,

Yes, I installed the ERR Cruise and RS in an MTH PS1 StFe F3 20-2151LP last year with no difficulty.  I have all functions and much better sound, control.  I also used the manual I downloaded from ERR, great and easily understood for several different installations you can perform.  Very glad I made the change from PS1 to ERR TMCC and RS.

Jesse

TCA

No, but I did swap out the Locosounds for the ERR Cruise Commander and RailSounds Commander in my RailKing RS3.  Runs and sounds MUCH better.

Tight fit, but easy installation.  Seems like I had to do something to get the speaker to fit in the fuel tank cavity, maybe used the old speaker that came with the RS3.

The bulbs are powered from the CV Board and they are 6V bulbs.  Best to leave all connected to CV board, except headlight.  Take the headlight bulb out, and replace with 18V bulb wired to the ERR board.   G

Actually, an 18V bulb will be very dim when wired to the Cruise Commander as it outputs half-wave track power.  If you want to use an incandescent bulb, use a 12V bulb.  Of course, for a brighter and more focused headlight, I prefer replacing the bulbs with an LED.

If you want a rear electrocoupler and lighting on the trailing unit, you'll need a tether between them.

Many of the Premier A-A and A-B-A sets have both units powered.  The Cruise Commander will struggle with four motors, sometimes it's OK, other times it's not.  Best to either convert a trailing powered unit to a dummy or use another Cruise Commander for additional powered units.

When I installed ERR into my PS1 F3s, I did not need to change the headlight bulbs, but simply hooked them up to the necessary connectors as indicated.  Perhaps, it has to do with the early PS1 equipped engines?  As I stated. overall it was easy to perform the upgrade and very glad I did.  When I did the same, a couple of years earlier, to the PS1 Big Boy #4012, the only bulbs I had to change were the tender clearance lights (did not have the LEDs and pc board), put in grain-of-wheat bulbs, no problem then, or since.  Also, on the BB #4012, for the TMCC antenna I insulated/isolated the cast tender shell with nylon screws and black electrical tape, attached the antenna wire to the shell for reception.  Works great everywhere on my layout. 

They are 6V bulbs so at 18V track power they will burn much brighter and should not last as long.  Especially if you shift to conventional mode, when I think full wave goes to the bulbs, though at usually less track input voltage.  G