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Hi Guys,  To answer the above question  "You start with an ear"

I haven't been here in a long time but I am need of basic help.  I want to start my layout design with my classification yard.  This shall be my starting point.  My hardware is as follows.  O gauge 3 Rail,  RCS,  GG Track, DCS,  RR Track Software.  Now this is it that I would to start with.  At least a 10' length yard.  Max. 30' reach across tracks. Would love to have  5 classification siding plus a passing siding (or Two), plus an arrival siding (or 2)  plus an engine and cab storage area.  I can dream can't I??  One or two switchers will do the dirty work.   BTW Yes I have the space and maybe a little more.

If any of you gentlemen have the time and/or desire to work and help me thru the design process for this yard it would be greatly appreciated.  I also MAY remember you in my will.

My very best regards

Tommy

 

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Here is a photo from several years ago of my main yard.  Click on the photo to see a full screen version.

Left to right, the tracks are the Mainline (with light ballast), two Arrival/Departure tracks (one on each side of the street support posts), 5 classification tracks and a locomotive thoroughfare track.  You can see the Diesel engine house at the far end of the thoroughfare.

These 9 tracks require 33.75 inches of table depth.  Note that the yard ladder for 5 class tracks (made with Ross "regular" switches) is about 6.5 feet long.

Yard

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  • Yard
thebeeman posted:

Hi Guys,  To answer the above question  "You start with an ear"

I haven't been here in a long time but I am need of basic help.  I want to start my layout design with my classification yard.  This shall be my starting point.  My hardware is as follows.  O gauge 3 Rail,  RCS,  GG Track, DCS,  RR Track Software.  Now this is it that I would to start with.  At least a 10' length yard.  Max. 30' reach across tracks. Would love to have  5 classification siding plus a passing siding (or Two), plus an arrival siding (or 2)  plus an engine and cab storage area.  I can dream can't I??  One or two switchers will do the dirty work.   BTW Yes I have the space and maybe a little more.

If any of you gentlemen have the time and/or desire to work and help me thru the design process for this yard it would be greatly appreciated.  I also MAY remember you in my will.

My very best regards

Tommy

 

Hey Tommy,

Do you like Bob's configuration?

You can squeeze it down to 30" from his 33.75". He has extra space for the support footings . The Ross #4 (9.5°) will give you a natural set of 4" on the yard ladder.

He used the Ross Reg or (11°) which gives you a natural set of 4.25" center rail spacing for the ladder.

4" centers on the main straight is ok. 4.5" is easier to work with when you get to the curves for dual mains.

I find 3.5" inches from the edge to center rail is ok for the main. Again, 4.5" from the edge will keep the overhang at the turn safer for articulated engines and 21" passenger cars if you are up against a wall.

Also, the GG sectional curves are grouped by different natural center rail spacing. Using flex you can make what you need, but that's another story.

email me if you want me start the RR-Track file. There are too many variables to communicate here.

Tommy,

I think that dealing with honey bees would be a lot more difficult than designing a yard.  I find the best way to design a yard to it take the switches and track and try various configurations in you actual space.    This is how I designed the yards on my layout and on my club's layout.  

There are just too many variables to get advice over the internet.  Your minimum radius and switch size all have an effect on the design.

I recommend that you get a track planning book and study it or get a local model railroad friend to give you a hand.  They do not have to be O gauge people.  The basics of designing a good yard are the same in all scales.  

NH Joe

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