I FINALLY FOUND IT!

It looks great! It sounds great! It smokes great!

Watching a driver crank pin and listening to the chuff rate, I'd say you hit the four per revolution. Nice job! (what is your procedure to get it to that rate?)

 

Very well done Sir!

Yes, 4-chuffs per revolution. Very nice.

Sorry Alex, I missed the JB Weld line. But, I have not heard of this method either.

Are you Kidding me? That thing sounds and smokes Great, WOW!!!.

Alex, you just can't keep your hands off your enegines, can you?!?!?!? 

 

Sounds and looks great as usual!  Did it blow smokerings before the upgrade?

 

Who's the dead worker by the switch machine?

 

 

Looking great Alex. Someday I've got to get to see your layout. 

 

Gerry

Alex....you got it right on the money!!  I have the Smithsonian edition of this model with the older sound system but it is sure a beautiful model!

 

Another expert job done by the "master"!

 

Alan

Sounds great Alex. The chuff is right on.

 

that employee on your layout has been laying down on the job since I was there a couple of weeks ago. 

Thanks Henry, Hot water, Casey, and Chris for the input.

 

Henry I used JB Weld which you can purchase at any hardware store, you then have to take off the shell and locate the cherry switch which will be somewhere towards the bottom of the engine. Most likely you will have to take some of the circuit boards out of the way to locate and get to the cherry switch. Then you will have to take off the cherry switch to locate the bearing which will only have two lobes on it. The existing  two lobes will be 180 degrees from each other ,  now you will  have to put the other two lobes 180 degrees from each other with the JB Weld. This will create 4 lobes which will now be in quarters, this will net you 4 chuffs per revolution.

 

Thanks, Alex

 

Sounds better than any of the ones I did using JB Weld!  I'll send my next one to you!

That train looks, sounds and smokes great! That lazy yard worker though should get fired for sleeping on the job...with the broom handle in hand still, no less.

More nice work Alex! Chuff is great. If you watch your video and stare at the rear driver pin the chuffs are at 12 O clock, 3-6 and nine, four chuffs indeed.

 

My only problem is, I'm not sure if I wanna pick up one of those century club niagaras, or j3a hudson, and send it your way for upgrades

Thanks guys for the input, I listened to the chuff so many times as I was working on it,I couldn't tell anymore if it sounded right. So I'm glad you guys heard it and said it sounds right.

 

Chris it didn't blow smoke rings before the upgrade, just a faint straight stream,

I keep forgetting to pick up the worker that's dead on the floor. LOL

 

Gerry, thanks I'm having a huge get together in the summer I will let you know the date soon.

 

Alan, I thank you very much !!!!!!!

 

Dave thanks, I keep forgetting to pick the worker on the layout. I think it's been like that for at least a month.

 

Thanks Larry, Bob, and RickO for the input, I will gladly upgrade your engine's for you guys.!!!!!!!

 

Thanks again, Alex

Oh.... I thought you found MikeF's missing Berkshire screw. He can't find it.

Alex,

 

Looks and sounds like you nailed it, chuff rate and all.  Good job! 

Looks great to me Alex.   Obviously, it's not a fan driven smoke unit, but that's pretty darned good for a puffer, and the chuff rate seems right on.

 

Have you got sufficient miles on any of these cam modifications to see how they're wearing with the JB Weld?  I'm wondering if it'll start wearing.

Great job, as usual. You have to be the king of smoke.

Alex looks great.

 

Just a couple weeks ago I upgraded Chris Bojanower's but I did use a reed switch, and put a old TAS Turbo smoke unit in it.  The reed switch on the smaller tender wheels allowed 4 chuffs a rev and the smoke is still synced.

 

Interesting to see how well the JB Weld holds up pushing down the switch.  JB weld is great stuff.  I've even used to fix a 6ft crack in a camper holding tank.  Also good for putting metal details back on engines.

 

Jim

Thanks  to all of you guys for the nice comments and input. I appreciate it

 

Gunrunner I've only done a few in the past months, so not long enough to put the JB Weld to the test. But one thing about JB Weld it's really strong, it was very very hard to file so my guess would be the cherry switch wouldn't have much effect on the JB Weld.

 

Jim Yes I agree with you with the reed switches. I normally use them on my chuff up grades, but thought I give the JB Weld a try.

 

 

Thanks, Alex

    

 

 

Wow, that really does make a difference

Alex

 

First, nice work - but then, that's what I would expect. Second, a question. I've used JB Weld and JB Kwik for all kinds of things, but I've never seen the Steel Stik in your photo. Could you comment on its handling characteristics and what are its most appropriate uses? Thanks. 

Alex, I have a huge favor to ask. If you own an American-made Lionel scale Hudson, is there any way you could check to see if the main drive rod on the Dreyfuss is compatible? These Dreyfuss Hudsons come with "roller-bearing" drive rods, and I would like to have them on my model of 5344 in its later configuration. See the photo here:

 

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...e-pt-tender-and-more

I use the JB Weld and the JB Quik a lot, but I also haven't tried the Steel Stik, is that what you used for the lobes?

Good morning everyone, I thank you all the nice comments and the input.

 

John and Southwest Hiawatha, I'm finding the JB Weld steel stik to be very very strong. it's extremely hard to file, and to my understanding it can with stand very high temperatures.Here's some of the details, work time 3 to 5 minutes, compressive strength 8,000 PSI, electrical resistance 30,000 megaohms, dielectric strength 300 volts, and temperatures  up to  300 degrees. John yes this is what I used for the lobes because I figured it would hold up.

 

Hi Nick, I would love to help you out,but the only Hudson's I own are the Dreyfus in this post and the Vision Line. Let me know if there's anything else I can do for you .

 

Thanks to all, Alex

Really nice Alex - chuffs sound good and smoke is greatly increased. Am curious as to how it looks at speed. We had a couple of K-Line steamers (B6, Mikado, Pacific, Hudson) all with the puffers. They put out well enough but the 2 puffs were so 'far apart' that the plume didn't start to look full until the locomotive was really moving and by then it dissipated too quickly due to the speed!

I'm guessing with the puffs doubled as you've done it will look great! 

Hi Sam thanks, I will shoot a quick video at speed to see how the smoke reacts

Stay tuned. LOL

 

Thanks, Alex

Hi Sam,

 

Here's the engine at speed.

 

Alex

 

Ha!  That's great Alex!

Someone asked about the rings....

Loved the video Alex.  You're right, that is a terrrific whistle!!  I'm not much of a steam guy, but after seeing and hearing that it's giving me second thoughts!

 

 

 

- Mike

Since the Vision Line Hudson is based on the American 700E, I wonder if it would be worth checking it out on that one.

 

I also realize it may be asking a bit much to disassemble a part of your model just to see if something might work, so it's really okay if you'd rather not 

Hi Nick, just to make sure, you're talking about the side main drive rod, you would like to know if my Vision line Hudson has  roller bearings on the main side rod. Is this correct.

 

Alex

Alex, compare the main drive rod on your Vision and Dreyfuss Hudsons. You'll notice they are two different styles. The Vision Hudson will have the typical style of drive rod, while your Dreyfuss has a different style, best described as larger and rounder at the points of attachment. These rods reflect the evolution of the actual Hudsons - they started out with the typical style of drive rod then over time were upgraded to the rounder rods. These rounder rods are called "roller bearing rods". Since I am modelling a J1e that was upgraded with these rods in real life, my question is if I were to locate a set of (Chinese made) Dreyfuss rods, would they fit on the older American style of Hudson?

 

Convoluted I know, but just one little prototypical detail I'd like to pursue if it's shown to be possible. And again, I'm basically asking you to take the main rod off your Dreyfuss and see if it fits on your Vision Hudson. I realize this is a bit of a hassle and I would completely understand if you'd rather not do that.

Ahh now I understand, that's no problem to do.It's actually pretty easy. I will try it tomorrow and let you know.

 

Alex

Alex,

That looks great! That is a great upgrade. Your funny, only you would take a brand new engine apart for an upgrade. Lol!!

By the way, AAAAHHHAAA!!! I knew there was a by the way in there somewhere.

The high speed runby video looks great! It's got smoke coming out all over the place. Just awesome!!

Mike R

Very cool, great effect!

I never would have thought of building extra cam lobes with jb weld. Ingenious.

I know how long you have been looking for this engine and it is a real treat when you finally get your hands on one. With you upgrades, you sure have a beautiful engine.

Thanks Mike R , Ken, Wowak, and Brian for the kind comments

 

Mike I love to take engine's apart, you should have seen the engine I worked on today. It was in pieces. Lol

 

thanks, Alex

Alex, I have the Lionel Century Hudson (and the ESE), and now you've given me an

idea - just what I need - another project.