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For those who may remember, I'm the now 76-year-old who's embarking upon his last layout. Benchwork is completed, design is done, and now I'm going through over 6oo pieces of tubular track to determine what I'll use. I have a lot of vintage pieces easily identified by the markings "Lionel" on one side of the tie and "NY" on the other. Also, most of my vintage has the typical muted gray tone and many pieces have some corrosion. Where I'm having difficulty is between two other "types" of Lionel track pieces. From the top, both look the same, but one is marked "Lionel" on the outer edge of the tie, and "Made in China" in very small markings is stamped through the rest of the tie. These track pieces have both the top and bottom black. Now my confusing pieces. These are marked "Lionel" on the ties, with no other imprint marks, black on the top and gray on the bottom. Were these pieces manufactured in Michigan before everything went overseas to S. Korea and China? These pieces (and the China ones) are "like new" in appearance. I'm sure all the variations will blend together, but my question is more of curiosity. The "unknown" pieces are in 072 and 054 curves and I need many for the layout I'm developing. On a parallel note, I have maybe 35-40 pieces of Lionel and K-line straights ranging in length from 36" to 40". I know that fewer connections aid in continuity, but I'm hesitant because I want to develop blocks in various places so that the crossing gate goes down, the lights blink, or the gateman comes out when a train enters the block. With fiber pins on the ends, will a simple cut into the rail of a long piece work as well as a fiber pin? Enough chatter from me. I'm open to anything you all can share.

Ken

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I too have developed many tubular layouts and have many long 36"– 40" K-Line tubular sections.  I have used these to great benefit and I always have electrical blocks.  They don’t interfere with blocks and you can insert short pieces anywhere.  They cut noise and wear on traction tires (Fewer joints), better electrical conductivity and they look good.  Advance planning will certainly facilitate this.  Laying out a track plan on paper (or in track planning software) and also laying out the blocks in advance on paper will help.  I recommend using the long pieces anywhere that they will fit.

Bill

Yes, the fewer joints the better, so the long pieces will be used. I've laid out the plan so I believe I can "see ahead" where blocks will be needed. I just came in from sorting all the track pieces I've gathered and the "new" pieces that have no corrosion and a pristine look are what initially confused me. Menards pieces have no "mode in" stamping, but each piece has a bar code strip on the underside of a tie. Then there are the "Lionel/Made in China" stamped pieces and the "Lionel" only stamped pieces as I posted yesterday--distinguished by the color differences in the underside of the ties. My huge amount of vintage Lionel seems to have a bit more heft to it, but otherwise no difference. Likewise for the gray-bottom ties over the black-bottom ties I previously described. The gray seems a bit heavier. In any case, I realize my inquiry does not rise to any great conclusion; I'm simply curious if there would be a discernable difference in using the vintage track over the "new" track I received. For me, I think at 76 I just want to get my layout up and running! Cleaning vintage track will consume far too much of my time and I feel it's best left to purists and those looking for bargains. I'll be selling several hundred vintage pieces at the next few shows I'll be at yet this year.  Still, I'm curious if any of you have definitive answers to Ken"s Track Mystery.

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