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All:

I've used insulated rails to activate accessories before, but I have always wondered about this:

Is it possible to use the same insulated rail to activate 2 accessories?  Or is it better practice to use an insulated rail to fire a relay or sets of relays to achieve the same thing.  My drawing below shows the 2 choices.  Do you prefer "A" or "B"?  Why?  Is there a 3rd way or a best way to go about it?

Thanks,

George

Insulated Rail Question v001

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I have multiple accessories activated by a single insulated rail section at several points on my layout. I have two 140 banjo signals at one grade crossing, 2 252 crossing gates and a 145 gateman (well a modern remake of the gateman) at another, and a 155 bell ringing signal and a 145 gateman at a third section. They all get their power from the same 135 watt brick that is feeding a Powermaster so I can turn them off or adjust the voltage as needed.

 

I also have a pair of 154 flashers at another grade crossing, but I want to say that's not an insulated rail that triggers those, or at least not on one of the tracks.

 

J White

 

G3750 posted:

Thanks all.  Your answers were a big help.  I have two DZ-10xx 2 track crossings (a DZ-1020 and DZ-1010) about 18" apart.  I didn't want to set up a bunch of DZ-1011 IR detectors.  I will use the insulated rail to activate both crossings gates/signals.

George

By the way, all switch machines (21) and signals (6) are running off the 15VAC tap of a single K-Line PowerChief 120F transformer.  I think that's adequate power.

George

Last edited by G3750
guitar nut posted:

I have insulated rail running multiple accessories, but have a problem with the train slowing down. I tried running ground feeds to the other rail but still have the problem. Any ideas?

My idea is you provide additional info.  Does the train slow only when running across the insulated rail section?  Are your accessories running on track power (or an independent power source)?   How big is the layout?  What kind of transformer?  What kind of accessories (high power motorized items or a few lamps)?  Did you also try running additional center-rail power feeds?  If possible/practical does turning off some/all of the accessories improve the behavior?

I think the quality/relevance of suggestions will improve if we know a bit more about your situation.

Layout is 6'x4'  One outside oval, The transformer is a Lionel LW, I use track power for the train only and accessory side for accessories only. the accessories are gateman - two crossing gates and 445 switch tower. I do have 4 feeders around the loop plus ground feeders on the other rail of the insulated track. The train slows only at the insulated rail section. I did not try turning off accessories

and I'm sorry I did not provide the additional Info. Thank you for your reply.

Tony

Tony,

 

I would guess that the wheels and/ or the the outer rails need to be cleaned, or the engines have traction tires on the wheels that hit the regular outer rail on the insulated rail section. If there are traction tires, does the engine do the same if it is running the opposite direction? (Not as in just throwing it in reverse, but picking the engine up and turning it around and running it)

 

On the rest of the track, the engine can get its return (or power) from both outer wheels  which are  typically fed from two conductors (the outer rails). On the insulated rail section, you lose one of those conductors, at least until a car bridges the insulated joint.

 

Of course, you have 4 solenoids running at one time (assuming the crossing gates are postwar types like the two other items), which is a fair amount of power. I would guess about 5 amps, or 60 to 75 watts. Your LW is rated at 125 watts peak I think, leaving around half the capacity for running the train. If it's also a postwar item, your LW may be pretty well maxed out. It may be time to add another LW for accessories (or whatever other transformer may be available) Disconnecting the accessories will likely determine if this is the case.

 

Hope this helps,

 

J White

 

If you happen to have an incandescent bulb (not LED type) lock-on or maybe a lighted passenger car (bulb style, not LED style), does the brightness dim when the accessories turn on?  If the train slows down this suggests the engine is receiving a lower voltage.  If this is because the transformer is under-powered and is sagging under the combined load of train and accessories, then a bulb connected to track power will also dim.  A voltmeter could indicate the same but you may not have one. 

In any event this might help isolate whether the reduction in voltage as seen by the engine is from the source (the transfomer) or from something along the way (wiring, wheels, track, roller pickups, etc.).

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