Is there any way to rework couplers on an O54 car to have it run O42?

Here's photo. I am not sure what the coupler type is called.

It's probably not possible without making some permanent modifications to the car. I'm not 100% sure, but off the top of my head I'd say you'd probably have to do one or all of the following:

1) cut off the side steps on each end of the car so that the truck/coupler can swing out further.

2) raise the car up above the truck with the use of some washers...which would make the car look rather silly.

3) Install some of the MTH long articulated couplers, if possible. Again, however, it would end up looking awfully silly.

If it were me and I was stuck with O-42 curves, I would make it easier on myself and limit myself to buying trains that were designed to run on O-42. 

Thanks and good luck.

Eric Siegel

Eric, you make sense. Thanks. Guess I'll have to pass on the cars.

ericstrains.com posted:

It's probably not possible without making some permanent modifications to the car. I'm not 100% sure, but off the top of my head I'd say you'd probably have to do one or all of the following:

1) cut off the side steps on each end of the car so that the truck/coupler can swing out further.

2) raise the car up above the truck with the use of some washers...which would make the car look rather silly.

3) Install some of the MTH long articulated couplers, if possible. Again, however, it would end up looking awfully silly.

If it were me and I was stuck with O-42 curves, I would make it easier on myself and limit myself to buying trains that were designed to run on O-42. 

Thanks and good luck.

Eric Siegel

 

 

Exactly. I modify/bash things all the time, but there gets to be a point where the unavoidable physics and the appearance and functioning of the piece just part ways.

That truck in the photo does indeed have an articulated coupler (it pivots on its own pin, separately from the truck pivot), BTW.

I'm guessing that car will already do O42, but I'd find someone with one to test.  Forget about O31 I suspect, that's probably too extreme.

The visual of center car overhang  (string line) isn't the only concern with a long car. The string line nature of the two trucks distance from each other being longer, adds more sideload to be pulled against too; making it harder to pull in a curve than a short car. 

   The shank doesn't look very long and if articulated  and truck mounted should be no worry on binding. Especially on larger dia. curves. Issues like coupler bind are usually only on 0-27 & 0-31/32... Maybe S curves on fixed long shanks and body mounts 

  I'd think the steps would need to go or changed if there is even a mod needed.  Sometimes mininums are exaggerated.  If I really wanted the car, I'd 'hold off on jumping , and wait, and /or research for a owner experience or opinion.

On a Weaver N&W lumber car,I put plastic washers between the body and truck to get the drawbar to allow the knuckle to swing by the end steps. 

And that was on 042 track.

Sorry I'm not sure of the thickness.

But remember to change the height of the body not the drawbar of course.

  Maybe rig a clearance car of the correct wheelbase out of old trucks and a skeleton frame. Then see how you feel.

Two trucks, two screws, some weight, tape, and a branch (or two; width)  . You'll make some logging ghost's day on top of it