Issues/Precaution if buying Loco with PS2 5v Board

gunrunnerjohn posted:
BobbyD posted:

I was told by a dealer if it has the rectangular 9V looking battery it is a 5V board, and if it has the cordless phone "shrink wrapped" style battery it is a 3V board.  Are there 5V boards with this 2.4V battery? (The images are from Traintekllc.com)

The point of the exercise is to determine the type without taking the locomotive or tender apart.

I understand that John, have some Proto2 without a charging port, some round port , others with the 3.2 port. Installed BCR's rather than ever open them up again.

I was asking Marty about this reply. It seemed to infer that other than a 8.4V battery did not mean 3V board. "Marty Fitzhenry posted: By saying a board is a 5V board, that relates to the components in the board and has nothing to do with the battery."

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Obviously both 9V batteries.  The 1999 one is a PS/1 version.

Delivery Status: 

Delivered MAR. 1999

Delivery Status: 

Delivered JUL. 2000

Ok You will be proud of me! Last evening I changed out the battery in the 1999 Camelback with a BCR! The battery removed was a Gray 8.4V Model PB 1605.

 

Playing with Trains since 1948

TCA #66-1559

Coming back around to thank everyone for the wealth of good info. I have a much better understanding of the different board types than ever expected now. I am much more comfortable with the differences and moving forward looking at older ps2 locos now.

The rectangular battery is for the 5V system.  I have a large number of engines and they all have a battery.  No BCR on my layout.   I will buy an engine with a 5V system if the price leaves enough room to update it to PS2  3V or PS32.   Some of those engines were great (minus the board) and were powered by the giant Pittman motor.  They make great conversions.   I have many former 5V engines that were converted to PS2  3V or PS32.

 

 

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I recently had my MTH 20-2595-1 Harley Davidson SD60 with the 5 volt board die. I just took it over to one of the only places in SoCal that does MTH work at all. I could likely do it but I was not willing to risk ordering a board set with no warranty since I am not a certified MTH tech. I can work on Lionel and TMCC ERR stuff so oh well. It is worth it to be since I did some horse trading for the engine. Now back to working on my old tech Dorfan.......

Captaincog posted:

I recently had my MTH 20-2595-1 Harley Davidson SD60 with the 5 volt board die. I just took it over to one of the only places in SoCal that does MTH work at all. I could likely do it but I was not willing to risk ordering a board set with no warranty since I am not a certified MTH tech. I can work on Lionel and TMCC ERR stuff so oh well. It is worth it to be since I did some horse trading for the engine. Now back to working on my old tech Dorfan.......

Just curious, in some case would it be cheaper to buy a new Premier SD60 and swap the shell? I've done this a couple of times on the Railking line but not sure how well it would work on the Premier end.

H1000

H1000 posted:
Captaincog posted:

I recently had my MTH 20-2595-1 Harley Davidson SD60 with the 5 volt board die. I just took it over to one of the only places in SoCal that does MTH work at all. I could likely do it but I was not willing to risk ordering a board set with no warranty since I am not a certified MTH tech. I can work on Lionel and TMCC ERR stuff so oh well. It is worth it to be since I did some horse trading for the engine. Now back to working on my old tech Dorfan.......

Just curious, in some case would it be cheaper to buy a new Premier SD60 and swap the shell? I've done this a couple of times on the Railking line but not sure how well it would work on the Premier end.

I did look at that idea but aside from having just put on some traction tires there was nothing else wrong with the drivetrain. In fact the night before it died I ran it just fine on my layout with no issues. I took it to a show where my friend was running Fastrack loops using a z4000 and it moved a little with no sound then stopped running completely. I also had a sound power board let go on a Lionel Dash8 but I repaired that easily myself. When I looked at the cost of a new sd60 it was more than the cost of the boards and likely labor so might as well fix what is there.

Are there specific symptoms exhibited by a bad PS2 5V board or are they totally unresponsive?   Never had a PS1 or PS2 go south on me before.  I have a GG1 equipped with 5V PS2 that quit working when I had to physically stop the engine from running away.  It responds to nothing, other than if I move the power pickup switch to the pantograph position. After a few silent seconds it produces a high pitch tone, exactly like that of a smoke detector.  I will probably swap the electronics with a PS3 Railking GG1 if indeed it really is dead. 

Bruce

There are various symptoms, many times they're either totally dead, or they present a short and trip the breaker.

Note that the GG1 board with the operating pantographs is a special FLASH board.

Guys, why not do things right and have a PS32 board installed.   The test of time is taking down 5V boards every day.    Bruce, I would not do that.  Buy the PS32 board and have a great running GG-1.   I am almost clear of them on my layout.  When they go, replace them the right way.

Many times a member thinks the board went and it could be any number of chassis related situations.   

 

 

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Marty Fitzhenry posted:

Guys, why not do things right and have a PS32 board installed.   The test of time is taking down 5V boards every day.    Bruce, I would not do that.  Buy the PS32 board and have a great running GG-1.   I am almost clear of them on my layout.  When they go, replace them the right way.

Many times a member thinks the board went and it could be any number of chassis related situations.   

I agree so that is why I took it in to have them do the job.

The inquiry was to see if some type of reset could be performed given the symptoms experienced.  Sounds pretty hopeless from what you all say.  Before the runaway incident, it was running perfectly and I had just revived the automatic pans with new belts.  On second thought, cannibalizing a perfectly good Railking G is just plain silly........I'll put it on hold until money and time permits.

  A new PS32 kit will be a whole new learning curve, as I've never installed sound files or ever upgraded a TIU, remote, or even attempted any Legacy version upgrades.  I appreciate the advise...it will save a lot of unnecessary investigative work.  thanks guys.

Bruce

PS3 needs many files to be downloaded.  These are referred to as chain files and after they are put in, you then need to install the sound file.   Not a big deal.  Anyone in fear of doing that can just send the board to an MTH tech that can do it for you.  Bruce, if you need help, I have some friends in your area that can help you out.  

 

 

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If you're replacing a PS/2 board with the PS32, you shouldn't have to load the chain files, the PS32 board comes with chain files that emulates the PS/2 environment.  All you need to do is load the correct sound file.  One thing, you have to use a 3V sound file for the PS32 board, you can't load the 5V sound file.  Typically, there is an "upgrade" 3V sound file available for most engines, and MTH will provide one if it's not available on the site.

John they come with an SD-70 file.  That is ok if you are putting the board in a diesel.  Not so good for a steam engine.  Remember, MTH sent us the list of chain files to be used in the PS32 boards a long time ago.  I know you do not care for the PS32 board but my experience has been one hundred percent.    I have done a large number of them with no issue.  What I do love is using the PS2  3V sound files.   I believe those are also the files you favor.  I am fortunate as most of the people in my area with bad PS2 3V boards point them in my direction.   When I get a bunch together, they go to George (GGG) down in Virginia.  

 

 

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Good point Marty, I did download them when they were available.  I have a bad PS32 board (from an upgrade kit) sitting here now.  It never worked right, I took it out of the sealed bag.  Since I bought the kit last year, I'm sure MTH will just turn up their nose at replacing it.  I'm still not a fan.

There's so much I need to learn about DCS, if it weren't for the operating pans, I'd cheat and forego it by upgrading with ERR.  For now though, the repair can wait until I familiarize myself with the DCS basics and feel confident tackling the different aspects of the repair myself, not to mention completing 3 ERR upgrades already in the works.  I appreciate the offer of recommended repair guys in my area, Marty.  I can always fall back on that in a worst case scenario.

2 steamers are next in line for ERR upgrades but I absolutely can't order a pair of John's Super Chuffer's until after SWMBO gets a birthday present.

Bruce

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repair technicianDave Zucal
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