Lionel Electronic E unit?

Think of it like this...you're buying two things. One thing is the E unit and the other thing is a shipping service. Taken by them selves, they are each quite a bargain.

True.  Thanks I was thinking the same.

You could also try to add some more items to the order like smoke wicks or whatever else you might use regularly to spread the shipping costs over a larger selection of products. That would make it less per item anyway. 

What kind of transformer are you using?

Some electronic transformers never go fully "off", and therefore the e-unit never cycles.

If you do use an electronic transformer, try sequencing the reverse unit by removing one track wire from the transformer, and then reconnect and apply power. Any different?

TRW

You might lower the shipping if you go thru Jeff Kane www.ttender.com 

laz1957 posted:

 

...Why does it just sit there in neutral?

That black spider-like component is a digital chip that steps through the neutral -> fwd -> neutral -> rev sequence when you press the direction button on the transformer.  When you initially apply power it starts in neutral (before fwd).  So it sounds like you can step it to fwd and it goes...and then step to neutral...and then it can't get out of neutral despite repeated direction button presses.

So there's a component failure.  Turning power off and waiting resets the circuit, so it starts over in the neutral (before fwd).  Lather, rinse, repeat.

While the parts to repair this would be, say, $1 unless you're handy with a soldering iron and troubleshooting small electronic components I'm thinking $27.  I can't imagine any repair shop taking this on for less than the cost of a new board.

Thank you STAN for your insight on this.  I have heard that if a electronic e unit goes out you should get a new dc motor too?  Any advice on this?  Thank you.

I have had problems with lionel A/F. Twice I found that one of the capacitors had a loose solder connection. I would look at the back of the board and see if any if the capicitors have a bad solder connection. And of course look at the caps to see if they are in good condition. 

Since your engine apparently behaves OK in fwd (presumably responsive to voltage changes) I think your DC motor is OK.  It appears there are no connectors on this board. 

Since you have to cut wires anyway to swap in a new board how about this simple experiment.  Swap the two wires going to the motor and hook it back up.  Now, you should only be able to run in reverse.

This would confirm that the motor is functional in both directions.  I guess with an over-active imagination one could conceive of a scenario where applying the reverse voltage to a DC motor locks up the logic circuit on the E-unit.  The simple experiment should only take a minute or so and would put that to rest.

My experience with these is the output transistors are the typical failure.  If you cycle power three more times, do you get forward again when it stops?

Laz1957,

The 6100107100 is being substituted by the 6100103100.  I just pulled a perfectly working one out of my Polar Express to upgrade to ERR.  You can have my old E unit for the cost of shipping.  Contact me directly.