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The grade would likely be too steep(even at recommended spacing, I think it's something like 4-5%). 

 

If you try to set it up temporarily, you may find that the track doesn't even flex enough for each pier to touch the table.

 

Another thought, these are assembled to the track by slipping in between the ties on the adjacent pieces of track when you use them in between each piece.  To properly assemble this in the middle of the track, I'd think you would need 2 very close spaced ties, which I don't think stock pieces of track have.

 

-Dave

 

Last edited by Dave45681

Not sure of your motivation for wanting to make such a steep grade, but I'd thought I'd throw in a comment about what I do.

 

I too use O27 tubular and the Lionel Graduated trestles.  What I like to do is use the 36" long pieces of track on the grade.  I put one trestle at the 'beginning', one in the middle, and one on the 'end'.  This cuts the grade considerably.  I also screw down the trestles which helps a LOT.

 

It is stable enough too.  I run Railking though, so I"m not willing to talk about something like  a Bigboy or such.

 

- walt

I see the larger problem as one of the other "T" words....Transition

 

Traction is one thing, but the transitions at the bottom and top of the grade as you would propose is quite another.  In fact, I can't even comprehend most O3R engines...diesel or steam...making that transition.  Cars staying coupled at the transitions of such a steep incline could be equally problematic.

 

But, hey, that's what experimentation is all about.  Try it.  Get a flat (no twist) 1X4 or 1x6 board about 10-12 feet long.  Lay out (floor level, preferably) a straight run of the tubular track with the risers fastened at your half-section spacing.  Then put some equipment on it and try it out....carefully....checking both the transitions as well as the traction.

 

BTW, I'd expect your only chance of having this work to your satisfaction would be to NOT have any curves in either incline.  Going up....a MAJOR traction reducer; Going down....a good opportunity for the train to become airborne.

 

Tell us what you found.

 

 

 

 

Last edited by dkdkrd

 

The trestle set comes with two 1/4" pieces that Lionel thought of as transitional to help reach the very first grade piece. Be sure to use these then add a wood shim, painted grey if you want, to add additional transition. Dkdkrd is correct, the transition an uncoupling will get you if the grade doesn't. 

 

I have steep grades on one of my loops, O-27 profile and I also use the long pieces that Walt described. I added some styrene sides and i use card board under the tracks so it doesn't look like flying tracks.  I violate all the rules, I have a GG turnout and some of the larger radius curves in the mix as well. Speed is important.

 

Ralph

Hi dkdkrd

Yes I do think speed is important - at all parts of the graded layout. On the way up there needs be enough power to get the train up the hill, on the leveled area - the plateau if you will - the power may need be pulled back a bit so it doesn't go wild. Then again on the downhill side, I found that the speed needed to be pulled back more since my downhill comes into a curve at the base to prevent derails.

 

The mainline track layout allows for trains to go up or down thru the graded area depending how they come out of the under table storage yards. The yard(s) themselves have graded entries into and out of the sidings - a 90^ crossover track just to make it real interesting.

 

As I mentioned earlier, there is a turnout at well and monitoring the speed to make this turnout is another important operational control must. 

 

I do know real RRs don't do the curves and turnouts, but the over and under of my layout gives me fun! 

 

Ralph

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