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Hey Guys,

I have been buying a lot of used Postwar O22 switches lately. Most of them work well, after I go through the great Servicing instructions that are posted here in the old Search categories.

But, a few of them have been duds, for one reason or another.  Bent lantern holders, bent upward internal contact tabs that won't re-bend down flat, internal solenoid rod  that has become separated from the thin copper operating rod which hooks onto the switch gear pin.  etc.

  (Yesterday, I installed one, powered it up,  and the bayonet lamp bulb wouldn't make contact.  I pushed down hard on the bulb and re-turned it.  The light flickered on,  and then smoke poured out of the motor and it was fried.  A tough lesson at $35 a switch !)

I need to buy a few more switches, and have seen for sale several of the later versions of the switches, bearing parts numbers 6-14062 (Right) and 6-14063 (Left).  Many of them seem to look excellent, with little use.

What is the general consensus on this newer version?   Are they as good as the original Post War?  Are there any known problems?  The only mechanical difference I see compared to the Post War is that the Post War had one short false rail (not electrified) in the middle of the switch to protect the plastic housing from the train wheels, and the newer version has a small diagonal of false rails in the center for the same purpose.

Thanks for all info, experiences and advice.


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Mannyrock, I have 16 switches on my layout, most are O22 switches, a couple are more modern ones that are very similar to the 022 switches, and a couple are the manual version near my two Z4000 transformers.

All are working fine, especially after using LED bulbs. That eliminated the problem of melting the plastic lantern hats. Also, all my remote control switches are independently powered by a single ZW dedicated exclusively to provide power to the switches. I used to have the power set at 16 to 18 volts, but now that I use the LED bulbs, I have the power set at the maximum, which I believe is 22 volts. That completely eliminated the occasional sluggish operation of some of the switches.

To directly answer your question, I tend to prefer the 022 switches over the more modern similar ones, but I don't know why.

I have at least 6 spare 022 switches in good working order, and maybe another 6 to 8 spare switches that need repairs. For instance, some do not have the non-derailing feature working properly. I think it's a very good idea to have a few spare 022 switches.

I am very happy with my 022 switches, which have stood the test of time. Arnold

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