Lionel's New Berkshire Mars Light

No photo.

I use #30 wire-wrap wire all the time for lighting projects.  I have some really small heatshrink, I can normally stuff them anywhere an LED will fit.

Another trick is to file off the flange on the rear of the LED for better clearance in tight spaces.

Chuck, can't view the photo

Alex

I'm can't see it either.

How about now. I edited and added the finished photos.

I like this one better right side up .

There is no flange on the shoulderless LED from Lionel. They get them that way I guess. It's still tight because the leads are right at, and slightly out on one side, of the 3 mm. I tried shaving the flange off one of my 3 mm LEDs and ordered the ones from Lionel to see if they were any better lead wise...they're not...but they work.

When you push the LED into the black grommet in the headlight, you have to use a small blade screwdriver inserted between the leads on the back of the LED and press it in firmly to get it forward where it belongs.

I ended up soldering the tiny leads onto the pins. Supported the pins in a small hobby vise without too much pressure and lightly tinned both the wire and the pin. Then tacked the lead onto the pin. That leaves the crimp for the insulation to bend down which can be done with a very pointed needle nose pliers. A little flippy floppy but a third or fourth try on each tab caught it just right and bent it down. Then note where the black and white wires are in relation to left and right of the plug figuring that they are diodes on DC...but never checked...just made them the same as the one in the engine. 

Ok on the heat shrink John. I bought some of that on the bay for a class light install. I found, I think, 0.8 mm, 1.0 mm 1.5 mm, etc. A life time supply...but I hope not .

Chuck,

Very nicely done!!

Alex

i am waiting for them to have the correct part with the connector.  that kind of soldering is beyond me.

When trying to fit them into a close space, I tack the wires inside the LED leads to minimize the projection.  Then I use very small heatshrink to insulate them.

What does the MARS light operation look like, is it realistic?

Didn't put it on yet, but seems like someone or somewhere there was a video.

Has anyone come up with a clever (not having to remove the front pilot, etc.) way to take out the bottom screw holding the boiler front to it's hinge?

Maybe a homemade tiny stubby screwdriver...or some kind of right angle one might work best (if I were a machinist...).