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MELGAR
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Here is my recipe. 3mm hardboard cut to size. Then covered with a thin layer of Sculpt-a-mold, let dry and sanded smooth. Finally painted with acrylic paints using a few colors mixed together and lightly sanded (220 girt) when dry to bring out some detail and variation. I did the same at the rail crossings and filled in the gaps with Sculpt-a-mold.
Donald
If I were building a road today I would consider AutoMotionFX as part of the roadway construct.
Since I am rebuilding my city I will!
Although placing a roadway in front of a round-house is interesting as it uses what would be wasted real estate, it seems that it would interfere with the really nice setback ( a very nice use of space in front of a roundhouse.) you have in front of the turntable; where multiple engines would like to poke out and be seen.
With the curved road, you limit the poke-ing out. IMHO.
@kwisor posted:I have automotionfx
This is so cool'.. almost more fun than running trains'... What did this set you back'.. ?? Thanks for posting'...
Thanks ted I have not kept track Kevin
I used 1/8" wood sheets (4x4) and once I had what I wanted what I wanted, I painted it in 2 coats. The first was the Rust-Oleum black textured spray paint to get the road surface. Then once that was dry, I spray painted over it with the black color I wanted for the road (dull black).
Then I used the same board painted gray for the sidewalks to fit in with my station/crossing guard .
I used the same type of setup in my city but using 1/8" MDF with the roads painted to match my superstreets track and gray for the sidewalks.
@Larry Martin posted:I am considering using this roll of black Anti-slip tape for my roadways.. it is 4" wide and a gritty texture .. .. look pretty good, adhesive back. before I jump into using it does anyone have any feedback .. good or bad? I want to be a little careful when cutting it as I don't want any loose surface grit to get anywhere near the drive wheels etc of any engines and migrate to the grease on gear sets.
Also .. I have unrolled a few feet and have not seen or felt any loose grit .. at 4" wide and 65-1/2 feet .. it is pretty inexpensive (e-bay)
I picked some up. I thought it was a bit too "gritty"
Brendan
I've used several types of material to make roads, one was using floor tiles turned upside down as shown. They can be toned down with talc powder or cement dust and easy to work with. Used 1/8" masonite (or hardboard) for the cement area.
@GVDobler posted:I saw a movie and the person was trying to learn how to paint a bowl of fruit. The apples always just looked like circles. If your roads look like a strip of something you put there, it's kinda the same thing. Roads are not a perfect surface with no variation in color.
The artist gene is missing from my DNA
I hear you about the artist gene .. as a mechanical engineer, I have my layout running pretty flawless .. lots of auto zones, photo-eyes etc to control train movement .. but when it comes to scenery .. I know what I would like in my mind, but not quite sure that I have the inner talent nor the patience .. a little disappointed in myself in that aspect, but I am trying.
@sidehack posted:
I kind of really like your approach on both the roadways and cement areas and is worth looking at. I don't see me having the talent to go full blown realism, but I would like to meet somewhere between nothing and outstanding drop-dead realism
@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:This is so cool'.. almost more fun than running trains'... What did this set you back'.. ?? Thanks for posting'...
Really slick .. thanks for sharing
@RJT posted:Melgar where can you find this “task board material” sounds like a very good idea? I have some of the Harbor Freight stuff for my tool box and think it may be a little to think but also sounds like an interesting idea.
Dick Blick, has taskboard, and it is priced just right'..,.I purchased several very large sheets. I use it for scratch building. Haven't tried it for roads...
Over the years, I've seen many techniques, from using spackling compound, to painted 1/8" hard board, to piled up sand and dirt, to asphalt roofing paper (we use this for asphalt roads). All work well, but the level of crafting varies. Don "Industrial Models" Smith used spackling for his street-running industrial switching layout to a very impressive level.
It really depends on what the road is going to be doing with respect to the track or building bases. For MTH buildings, you need a 1/8" base road to compensate for the "sidewalks" surrounding the buildings. For grade crossings, you need to deal with flangeway clearances and have it low enough for the rail heads to make good contact.
I used asphalt roofing paper for a project layout.
The grade crossing in the first photo was done by applying lightweight spackle over a 1/16-inch thick piece of basswood and painting with acrylics.
The paved street in the second photo was done from a textured plastic sheet - also painted with acrylics.
MELGAR
Good looking roads Mel, any pixs of your task board roads...??
Likewise, Ray, some very nice looking realistic roads. In particular, I like your rounded support concrete walls under your track'... Very nice indeed'..👍⭐👌
Here is a few of my different versions: First is 1/8th " cork, painted with acrylic color pavement. weathered with pan pastels. white glue painted jet black for road tar patch..
This PVC (AKA) Foamy, no paint, white chalk weathering, and white out roller stripes..
This is 2 Home Depot large paint mixer sticks glued together. Covered with spackle and covered with jet black fine ballast solidified with white glue. I did want a grainy look'... Forum member, Toledo Ed, invented the ballast for black top..
Close up, distance shot
This is actual cork road bed for under the tracks. Painted with Woodland Scenics Topcoat' WHen I built these roads, I was unaware of all the other methods available. I also used Rust Oleum textured stone paint for certain areas. It looks like actual cement/concrete roads. As soon as I can find those pixs, I'll post it...
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