I got lucky that just the speaker failed open, on my meter. I didn't have a 8 ohm handy so I installed two 4ohm in series from MTH upgrade kits. I know, a little ugly with the hot melt .
I just added speaker baffles after the video to reduce the tender from rattling, but it still rattles.
I hear the smoke unit turn on with aux 9 and off with aux 8 (I think?). I don't see any form of cherry switch although the chuffing times fair with the drivers. The smoke unit chuffs too? Must be back EMF??
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I doubt it's back-emf, AFAIK it's only ERR that uses that. They don't generate chuffs, that looks like a TAS board. Some of those generated the chuffs from counting pulses on the flywheel sensor.
interesting! I didn't know.
I wonder if I could use that for a PS2 tach then?
Not that this has anything to do with the speaker. 
Joe, that failed speaker looks fairly beefy. One thing that will kill a speaker is DC current. There should not be any DC going to the speaker. An easy way to check for that is leave the tender shell off and watch the speaker as you apply power to it. It should not move up or down and maintain that position. Another way is disconnect one of the leads and insert your multimeter set to DC amps and see what it reads. If you see more that a few milliamps of DC it may mean a failed audio amp board.
Pete
Thanks Pete. I'll check on that.
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