manual vs automated switching

It would be great to be able to work completely hands free but that's probably wishful thinking.

Uncoupling doesn't seem to be very problematic but coupling is the issue.

The newest Lionel couplers improved the odds dramatically though. 

The other component is keeping a car that you're trying to couple to, from simply being pushed away by the impact of the train when coupling. I've thought of applying some layers masking tape to the inside surface of the outer rails to provide some resistance and act as sort of a "brake" for those cars that are spotted at industries.

One of the reasons I started using Kadees was because they couple at much lower speeds than hi-rail couplers and once coupled, they stay coupled.

I find that electro couplers effectiveness varies with the actual car, and the magnetic force needed to pull the coupler pin. Some cars work great, others so-so, and some not really at all. I try to weed out the poor acting couplers, by changing the trucks on the car. With the different truck and pin designs, I have a reliability of between 50% and 75%.

Coupling the cars requires a ramming speed of about 10 smph, and this still only works some of the time, again depending on the specific car and its coupler "stiffness".

I think that realistically, the sidings need to be within arms reach, as 100% reliability is not likely with the oversized couplers. Not sure about Kadees, as I currently do not use them.

Joe K posted:

Not sure about Kadees, as I currently do not use them.

Try some, you'll REALLY like them. All my freight equipment, and most of my passenger equipment have all been up-graded to Kadee couplers. No more undesired uncoupling, no matter how long the train is, and no more bashing cars together in order to couple. Plus, the cars are much more closely coupled together, and thus look SO MUCH better.

I'm not familiar with them.  Does the entire truck need to be replaced or can the coupler be independently replaced?

Thanks

When uncoupling, I always prefer to use the tab, if the car has one. For me, the "magic" of remote control is much outweighed by the fun of pretending to be the brakeman.

 I do add cars to the train by backing the train into them. I find this works much better when I am adding cuts of cars. Single cars like to roll away sometimes. Coupling is kind of hit-or-miss, in my experience, though the probability of success seems to go up significantly if both cars were made by the same manufacturer. Over time, I have gained knowledge of my collection, and I know which cars are good for switching, and which ones are better left in the middle of the train.

Even if I didn't prefer 'hands-on' uncoupling, I would want everything within arm's reach, just in case.

All manual coupling for us here. It ends up being easier in the long run for us and my three year olds little hands. He sometimes was having issues with the buttons on the uncoupler controller. I just have my little guy run over and couple and uncouple them. It is part of the fun for him.

Switching is the same too, sorta. I have a lot of the Brown O27 automatic switches with the manual switch levers. I have my son move the switch to send the train down different paths, but then let the automatic switching take over elsewhere to prevent derails.

Garrett76 posted:

I'm not familiar with them.  Does the entire truck need to be replaced or can the coupler be independently replaced?

Thanks

You might try checking out the "sticky threads" on the 3RS (3-Rail SCALE) Forum. Generally Kadee couplers are body mounted as they come with their own draft gear box, and pretty much have nothing to do with the truck. I simply remove the "big coupler" from the truck assembly and throw them in the trash.

O-gauge couplers in general suck. You never know when one will pop open for no obvious reason and have the tail of your train slammed into by the engine.  In fact it would be cool if one of the manufactures would build an engine that stops it's self when the track is fouled. 

For guaranteed never pull apart couplers, you can't beat tab and slot couplers.   

I've tried remote uncoupling but manual  couplers and switches up close to the front of the layout is more fun. More "play value "  if you will.

handyandy posted:

For guaranteed never pull apart couplers, you can't beat tab and slot couplers.   

Well, I've never had a "pull apart" with Kadee couplers either.

I've tried remote uncoupling but manual  couplers and switches up close to the front of the layout is more fun. More "play value "  if you will.

I like automated coupling and uncoupling.  I find rolling stock couplers will close OK if you bang them together at 10-11 smph.   It doesn't look bad doing it either.

Dennis

Generally, Kadee couplers are designed for body mount.    You would have to develop a system to truck moiunt them.    If you body mount, you remove the truck mount lobster claw, and use the same truck.

But will K's work o the tighter cures like O-36 and less diameter.

I too prefer manual switching - for the fun of it - and, like you mentioned, I put everything within two feet of the front of the layout. I manually change a switch, back in the engine, pick up or drop off a car using an uncoupling tool or my 'five-fingered-skyhook' to open, close or 'lift' the coupler, move the engine and change the switch. I like being the brakeman. 

I got the idea from this forum years ago to make the uncoupling tool from a bamboo kebab skewer that fits neatly under a static coupler (like on some of my cheaper K-line vans) to easily lift it or open a traditional Lionel coupler. I don't using uncoupling tracks - just a personal preference to keep things simpler. 

I do manual coupling and uncoupling including throwing the switches. With DCS and LC+ I have the remote in hand and I'm part of the action doing it all manually. It's just more fun for me.

Kadees will work on any radius.    Body mountings will work with scale 40 ft cars at least down to 24 inch radius which is as small as I have tested.    

Couplers in Fixed pilots on locos will probably not work on that small radius. 

If you are using larger modern cars, you can test them.

You can always mount the coupler on a pivot (make your own) without a box and increase the swing a lot for smaller radii.

Do the Kadee couplers used for 3-Rail O-Gauge trains (ours) work the same as the HO Kadee's? All my HO trains (years ago) had Kadee's, and they were fine, but the uncoupling required a bit of finesse. IIRC, we had to spot the couplers over the magnet, relieve pressure on the couplers to allow them to open, and then push the uncoupled car(s) away from the magnet. Coupling was straight forward.

Alex

I do manual right now.  Automated would be nice, but my small railroad can't afford an investment of this kind at this time.

I like automated switching, but sometimes remote coupling can be hit or miss with traditional sized couplers. With remote or automated coupling you must have the two cars or engine & car line up or you may not couple but push the couplers closed and have to start all over again. My MTH steam engine is fine as long as I couple to the tender and the rest of the freight train.

Also I have found that some traditional sized couplers; especially Williams diesel engines won't stay closed, so I tie wrap them permanently closed.

I have looked at Kadee couplers but it would involve too much work for my large fleet of O scale to make it financially affordable. I have used Kadee couplers in H.O. scale and like them, but to mount Kadee couplers in O scale is a lot of extra work. H.O. all you do is change the coupler and/or the mounting area, with O scale it is more involved as you must make a new location to mount the coupler and remove the old coupler.

Lee Fritz

Try viewing Laidoffsick's video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q35NxsNxRcw Doug used to be a member of this forum, not sure why he left it.

I used Kadee couplers in HO, but ended up coupling and uncoupling by hand and the skewer like has been mentioned.  In O, I am happy manually uncoupling and switching.  In my small space it is no trouble locating everything within arms length.  Yes I agree it makes me feel more like the brakeman.

I prefer manual switching over automated switching. 

My current tabletop layout has 17 switches, 5 manual and 12 remote.  My revised layout will be around the room will have about 12 switches, 9 manual and 3 remote.

Jim

Right now all my switches are manually operated (Caboose Industries Ground Throws), but I have 3 (form a Wye) that I want to power because they are part of a drop-down section of track used to gain entry to the main layout room:

Seems like I'm always on the wrong side of the drop-down when I have to throw a switch.  Not a problem IF I remember to put the drop-down back up in time!!!

I also use Kadee couplers, converted each car and engine as I got them.  Look great and operate perfectly.