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MTH O-31 Switch

M mabrodaOGR Forum Member
I am very new to the model railroad world, but I have completed my first layout. I went the the MTH Max Action in 4X8 layout to ensure I had all my bases covered. My biggest issue right now is that nearly every time a powered unit with roller, engine or otherwise, goes over a switch when set to curve, the roller gets pushed to an odd angle, contacts with another rail, sparks wildly, shorts out the track, and then derails. It seems to happen when the roller is transitioning from the regular center rail to the black painted section. I have some pictures to help show you what I see.

Layout:


Shot of roller getting pushed to the side:


Side view:


Has anyone seen this before? Is there a solution? I am very excited to have things up and running, but I cannot say I am able to run things with confidence. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Side Note: Any advice on why an MTH RTR Santa Fe F3 would be able to do everything in its PS2.0 powers, but the engine lights and coupler won't work. The coupler makes the sound, but no action. Lights dark.

Many thanks!

Matthew
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jvega2jvega2OGR Forum Member
Matthew,

I have several MTH O31 Realtrack switches and never had the problem you describe. What I may suggest is, if the switches are new, try and remove the black coating on the switches. I use a LGB (MTH makes one too) track cleaning block to clean my track, it will clean remove any black coating on the center rail and switches.

It could be that the coating is creating a little friction between it and the rollers causing them move to one side. By removing the black coating, it will create a smoother surface, and the beveled roller should slide right on by.

I would go over the entire layout and remove the black coating on the center rail and switches. You could also use a Scotch Brite pad to remove the black coating.

Nice layout by the way.

Good Luck, Joe
M mabrodaOGR Forum Member
Thanks Joe!

I just want to make sure I sand off the right stuff. The image below shows my switch, and you suggest rubbing off the black painted section in the middel (I am sure it has a technical term, but I don't know it)? I do not have black paint on any other parts of the track.

Thanks again for helping. This seems like a silly problem, but I just can't get it to work predictably.

Switch:


Take care.

Matthew
M mabrodaOGR Forum Member
Oddly, the engines do it too. Is there a speed issue with O-31 switches? Too fast? Too slow?

quote:
Originally posted by mort1345:
Checked my MTH and K-Line caboose and none of them will twist that far. Seems like it is the caboose and not the switch. I have run all of my cars with contact rollers over MTH switches 031 and up with no problems.

Mort
Pine Creek RailroadPine Creek RailroadOGR Forum Member
Matthew,
I agree with Mort on this one, unless your switches are out of level and not screwed down, you probably have a rolling stock problem. After building with many different kinds of track your MTH 031 turn outs should not be giving you the problem you are describing, unless you have some very long rolling stock, that will not go thru the 031 switches.
I also own the Penn Caboose you pictured, check the roller set up and make sure it is not damaged in some way, it maybe loose and moving around. One further note, if your back to back switches are not level and not stabilized properly it changes everything, having a switch or track to far out of level will cause all kinds of problems. Matthew I really like your layout, very nice sir.
PCRR/Dave
jvega2jvega2OGR Forum Member
[QUOTE]Originally posted by mabroda:
Thanks Joe!

I just want to make sure I sand off the right stuff. The image below shows my switch, and you suggest rubbing off the black painted section in the middel (I am sure it has a technical term, but I don't know it)? I do not have black paint on any other parts of the track.

Thanks again for helping. This seems like a silly problem, but I just can't get it to work predictably.

Switch:


Take care.


Matthew, from the previous pictures you've provided, it looks to me that all your track and switches are on a good flat surface and aligned well. On the above close up of the switch, you are correct on what black paint (Oxidation) to remove, this would also eliminate some sparking. You may also want check and lubricate the rollers on all your rolling stock as others suggested. Be careful not to use a heavy abrasive to remove the black oxidation.

Joe
M Mr.BillOGR Forum Member
Here is my 2 cents.

Check the wires that go from the truck into the car. If they are too tight, they may not allow for the truck to turn right. My passenger cars from the factory have very inconsistent wire lengths. 1 car is perfect. 1 car has long loops. 1 car is very tight. The very tight car, I had to reposition the wire to make it work better as it was not allowing the truck to turn right.

Second, the middle rails on the V are not supposed to be connected to power. You will notice that they do not have copper tabs on the junctions. Make sure they are not touching the adjoining track. You can use a small piece of electrical tape if they are. If they do touch they can cause the switch to trip directions, thus causing the cars to go off track. My LHS told me about this one.

Good luck,
BB
cngwcngwOGR Forum Member
quote:
Second, the middle rails on the V are not supposed to be connected to power. You will notice that they do not have copper tabs on the junctions.


Bill, that is a little misleading, but only due to wording.

The two insulated rails are the two "inner" rails on the V end of the switch. Middle rails makes it sound like the rails are the center (middle) rails. You, I and others know which ones are insulated...a newbie might not.

Just for point of clarification. I am sure everyone appreciates your input on this.

Greg
S SJCOGR Forum Member
Matt:

I also recommend you check the roller for damage. I have that caboose as well and the roller was slightly damaged causing it to get hung up.

As for your F3, you may have to go through the DCS menu and try the various lighting options. I have the F3 from a circa 2004 B&O Freight Set (I'll put in a shameless plug for that engine - 4K scale miles and not a single issue except a worn pickup roller. Great engine). In the "MORE" menu, located in the Soft-keys, there are various lighting options that turn the lights on and off. Check that. Also, make sure the headlight is "ON" via the numerical button on the DCS remote.

As for the coupler, somewhere on the button of the engine there should be an on-off slide switch. That shuts the coupler off if you are running it with non-powered engines behind the powered engine. Dumbo here didn't realize that until he and his LHS had the engine torn apart and tested other coupler before we remembered the switch.
M mabrodaOGR Forum Member
quote:
Originally posted by SJC:
As for the coupler, somewhere on the button of the engine there should be an on-off slide switch. That shuts the coupler off if you are running it with non-powered engines behind the powered engine. Dumbo here didn't realize that until he and his LHS had the engine torn apart and tested other coupler before we remembered the switch.


Wow! Great tip! I played with the switch, but it did not help. The lights and coupler stopped working suddenly when I backed the engine up and coupled it with the passenger cars. Boom - lights out, coupler dead. Everything else still good.
M mabrodaOGR Forum Member
I wired the switches yesterday to use auxiliary power and the DCS, and now I am noticing that the switch does not go all the way across when thrown. There is a little gap where the switch rail meets the side rail. This gap has been derailing things today! I am using the 14V leads off a dedicated Z1000 for the switches. I have 9 switches and 5 or the 9 consistently don't go all the way across. Should I use the full power leads?
S SJCOGR Forum Member
quote:
Originally posted by mabroda:
quote:
Originally posted by SJC:
As for the coupler, somewhere on the button of the engine there should be an on-off slide switch. That shuts the coupler off if you are running it with non-powered engines behind the powered engine. Dumbo here didn't realize that until he and his LHS had the engine torn apart and tested other coupler before we remembered the switch.


Wow! Great tip! I played with the switch, but it did not help. The lights and coupler stopped working suddenly when I backed the engine up and coupled it with the passenger cars. Boom - lights out, coupler dead. Everything else still good.


Matt: If you haven't,

Try a factory reset via DCS just for laughs. Can't hurt to try.
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