MTH Rechargeable battery

I use these and they work great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...ui_search_detailpage

Thanks !

I use the current MTH Green 8.4 volt battery.    

Have you looked into using a BCR???

Marty

Marty,

    When the batteries need replaced insert a BCR and never worry about replacing batteries again.  The new P3 engines have their own Super Cap, I put BCR in the P2's.

PCRR/Dave

You'll want a NiMH battery, not NiCd, and as was mentioned 8.4v, not 7.2.  While most of the name brand batteries out there now no longer even mark it as a selling point, you'll also want one that is 'Low self-discharge' (often marked as 'Pre-Charged').  These will hold a useful charge for more than a year on the shelf.  As always, I recommend the DuraCell brand, marked 'Pre-Charged Rechargeable" as my number 1 choice; I have sets of these in AA with hundreds of charges using quality slow chargers and 15-minute high current chargers. They are just good high quality batteries.  Rayovac is my second pick, if I'm in a store, need batteries, and they do not carry DuraCell.   As far as the name brands go, I've had nothing but problems with the brand being sold by the drumming bunny, and have avoided buying them whenever possible.  They don't tend to like being stored for long periods between charges, and often have trouble being charged again after storage. 

As for the various off-brand options just make sure it is the 'low self-discharge' type, NiMH, and you should be fine, within the realm of cheap batteries.  Also avoid any Li-ion type rechargeable batteries.  These are very good batteries, typically, but require careful charging.  The charge circuit, or lack there of, in MTH engines is not suitable for charging Li-ion batteries.  

From online sources:

Duracell(170mAh): $11.99

Rayovac(200mAh): $8.99

MTH Battery(120mAh): $12.00 +shipping, 

BCR:  About $30.00

JGL

Edit:  On the topic of a BCR, they are good devices, but if you are on a budget, it will take at least 25 years for the BCR to repay it's cost compared to using a NiMH battery.  

Maybe 25 years but a BCR is always ready to go no matter how long the engine sits. Yes first time on the tracks does take the one minute to charge. No big deal compared to keeping batteries.

I bought two of the green MTH 8.4 volt rechargeable batteries at the hobby shop (need about 6 more) but there's no instructions on initial charging - are they supposed to be charged before installing - if so, how many hours, or do you install them and charge while running trains?

Paul Kallus posted:

I bought two of the green MTH 8.4 volt rechargeable batteries at the hobby shop (need about 6 more) but there's no instructions on initial charging - are they supposed to be charged before installing - if so, how many hours, or do you install them and charge while running trains?

Even when I purchase a new MTH battery from my local hobby shop, I ALWAYS charge it overnight, i.e. at least 12 hours, using the MTH charger assembly.

It won't take 25 years if you blow a board because your battery isn't charged. Never underestimate stupidity.

Gerry

Ok already !  What is a BCR ?

Dan P,

    A BCR is actually a Super Cap that can replace your Battery in P1/P2 Engines, available at most Hobby stores or on line.  The 8.4 Battery replacement BCR looks like this one in the pictures below, I have yet to replace one, my oldest one is now over 15 years old.  You can contact J&W directly with the info on the BCR.

PCRR/Dave

It had been my impression that only original, ProtoSound(1), boards had a problem with damage from a bad battery, and that much of the time these scrambled boards can be repaired with a special chip.  As a note it is also my understanding that the cause of the board scrambling is power dropping out as the board is writing to its memory on start up, similar to pulling the plug on a computer during its boot up.  This is an actual problem with NiCd batteries, as they will report being fully charged to a measuring device, even when they are damaged to the point that they can only hold that voltage for fractions of a second under a load.  Aside from the memory effect that plagues NiCd, there is also the issue that NiCd batteries also are damaged simply by not being used, or from charging them too quickly.  Once damaged in this manner small crystals form between the layers of the pile and act as bridges to internally short the battery.  

Point of all this?  NiMH batteries don't have the problem.  They can be measured to know what percentage of charge they still hold.  In addition, the low self-discharge type,( the only sort sold in the last several years by any name brand),  will hold a useful, "full" charge for over a year.  NiMH do not have the crystallization problem, nor are they so finicky about proper charging.  Sure, it is possible to get a bad battery, just as it is possible to catch a bad Capacitor, but with NiMH you are unlikely to damage anything.  You'll know your battery needs replacing when shut-down sounds start cutting off in 8-12 years.  

Now, if you currently have a white, NiCd battery in your engine, by all means throw it in the trash... or actually a battery drop off somewhere as Cadmium is a fairly harmful substance to be tossing in land-fills.  If you have the green battery, you're not in much danger of harming anything.  

JGL

JGL,

   The other benefit of using the BCR is you never have to mess with replacing batteries ever again, longevity storage when using the BCR is no problem either.  As the Batteries need replacing, I replace them with BCR's, in all my P2 engines & Street Cars.  IMO every P1 should definitely have them, just to eliminate any problems.  I certainly do not replace all of them at one time, definitely cost prohibitive.  Also as Guns pointed out long ago, you can roll you own if you want to, saving a lots of money.

PCRR/Dave

There is nothing wrong with a BCR, I'm not knocking them.  You do it once and never have to worry about a battery again.  I'm just pointing out that it is not the ONLY solution.  If you don't mind replacing a battery every 8-12 years, there is nothing wrong with a NiMH battery either, and it will take 24-36 years to recoup the investment  of the cost of a BCR... Seeing as many folks do not keep these engines for that long, they will never see a return on the investment.  

JGL

JohnGaltLine posted:

.....it will take at least 25 years for the BCR to repay it's cost compared to using a NiMH battery.  

But, the true payback comes when you try to install a battery every few years in a Bipolar electric or in one of those diesels where circuit boards have to be shoved out of the way to get at the battery compartment.

With a BCR its once and done.  The average guy (me!) doesn't want to be rearranging electronics on a regular basis or playing with the couplings on that 3 unit electric loco. Tempting the fates once too often would make the price of a BCR seem minor.  

Jim

I know a bit about the BCR.    I will not say anything bad but just state I do not use them for my own reasons.     I have a list of engines and when the battery  was changed on my work bench computer.   I have a battery tester I made to check engines often.   It also checks the batteries in my DCS remotes and many other devices.   I have no problem buying batteries.  I do have a problem when I have to buy a new board.  

Whether  you put in a battery or a BCR, check the battery clip connections and make sure they clip onto your devivce firmly.  I always like to give the large clip a gentle squeeze with needle nose pliers.  Pay attention when you do this job.  I know a guy who was busy and did not pay attention and forgot to put the clip on his BCR.  I got a call wanting to know why his engine is not running.  He had a 5V board,  

I do a few repairs and any engine I work on gets done with a battery.  If a customer wants to change it out, it is on him.

Just finished replacing the white battery with a green one in my P2.0 steamer.  It was a relatively simple job since the battery was located in the Tender.  I do not have a battery charger.  I believe that I can charge it on the tracks.  Am I right and how long should I charge it?  Thanks in advance.

You can charge it on the track.  Smoke should be off for track charging.