N&W #2200 Y6b replace tire problem

Jeff, it sounds like you already know what you have to do. Make notes or take photos as you go. Good luck. Keep us posted.

I am attaching two photos of the problem. As you will note, the nut driver cannot fit over the nut on the driver because the crosshead is in the way. It was hard to capture the rods as far down as they go before coming up. Also the main rod, crank, what type of tool is there to take these off? The connecting rods are pretty much one long piece therefore Everything must come off. This is quite the design flaw.

This has come up before. Here's another thread with tips:

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...andw-y6b-need-advice

Thanks a bunch!! I scanned and will go back and concentrate on what is posted. Hopefully this will give me the fix. THANKS for that tip!!!

Sounds like a terrifying task, I think I will leave the tires off as mentioned, and run the engine with the two tires on the front engine. This is too bad. I also noted a Member changing out the smoke unit. Mine hardly smokes at all, apparently another goof of Lionel regarding this wonderful locomotive.

I also noted that all 16 drive wheels are powered by a high torque Pittman W motor. So maybe if all the driving wheels are powered (so to speak) maybe they help contribute to a little of the pulling power.

It's not that bad.  Just follow what was posted in the other thread.  Remove the side rods from the other three wheels and thread the rod connected to the front wheel through the traction tire.  Yes you will need a couple of picks to help in the process.   You will need to remove the eccentric bolt and rod.  Take a photo prior to your start to help remember the orientation.  No need to remove the castings or wheel sets, etc.

Without the tires, your engine will slip if pulling any amount of load, going up an incline, etc.

Dave’s got it right, …and I’ll add, ….to make your job go smoother, do one side at a time. My advice, first thing to do, run the engine very slowly, and place the crank pins (rod bolt screws to you ) at the 6 o clock position, ….you’ll thank me later!….plus it makes orientation of the rods simpler with a photograph,…..at every 6 o’clock position, you’ll notice the eccentric follows the trajectory of the main rod,….

Pat

I have the Legacy Y6b, the tires are on the rear wheelset away from the crosshead. All you have to do on mine is remove the rod screws from that wheel and rotate it to install the tires.

Does the JLC have tires under the crosshead?

Yes that is why we have the problem, you cannot get to the entire head of the screw as the head is in the way. And one person said that when he backed out the screw using a different wrench, the head hit the rod before it could be extracted.

@harmonyards posted:

Dave’s got it right, …and I’ll add, ….to make your job go smoother, do one side at a time. My advice, first thing to do, run the engine very slowly, and place the crank pins (rod bolt screws to you ) at the 6 o clock position, ….you’ll thank me later!….plus it makes orientation of the rods simpler with a photograph,…..at every 6 o’clock position, you’ll notice the eccentric follows the trajectory of the main rod,….

Pat

Yes I have noted that position of the crank doing other locomotives.

@Jeff B. Haertlein posted:

Yes that is why we have the problem, you cannot get to the entire head of the screw as the head is in the way. And one person said that when he backed out the screw using a different wrench, the head hit the rod before it could be extracted.

Ugh, that sounds like the CC2 or the Cab Forward, both much more ugly traction tire installations!

I've replaced tires on so many of these Y6B's. These have removable drivers since the chassis design is similar to a brass model. The bottom of the frame can be remove to allow you to drop the driver set enough to remove the bolt. The drivers can then be removed to install tires. Might seems like a task, but it is much easier than using a bunch of tools to try and get the tire on. Just my take on this tire replacement.

They’re definitely a clock bandit, but nothing overly difficult, …..just a lot to do….30-45 minutes to do the whole locomotive, including a lube, oil, & filter ……😉

Pat