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Hi out there in ForumLand,

I am using an 011 and an 012 (not the more modern 022) prewar switches in a display layout.
One at either end of a single track for reverse loops, and the automatic / non-derailer function must work.

I found an instruction sheet for the 011, so ''I think'' I have that one covered.
I noticed that the 012 is slightly different, with solid outer rails, where as the 011 has split outer rails, with insulated segments.
And I don't have any instruction sheet for the 012.
Any help with: Wiring / fixed-voltage feeds / insulator-pin locations, etc.
Helpful hints (what to keep clean and lubed)...
Thanks in advance!
S.G.


(PS.)
Photos coming soon of this display layout. It is in the Reading Railroad Heritage Museum, Hamburg, PA.
It will have up to 8 trains running, from Standard Gauge to PreWar-O, Postwar, Modern Era and 3-rail scale, on 3 levels, 14x26 ft.
Saturdays 10am to 4pm, Sundays Noon to 4, now thru the end of January 2013.

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I don't believe the 012 are non-derailing, but the 011's are. The coils take a large amount of power to operate, even when properly lubed. The non derailing function works marginal at best, even if you modify them for fixed power. If you try to use the non-derailing feature to consistently operate the switches in a fashion for a double reverse loop layout, you will forever be re-railing trains after they derail. If you want to do that, I highly suggest fastrack switches for that purpose The circuit in them is much more sensitive to detecting trains and much more reliable.

Amen to using O22 or Fastrack  switches.  De-railments are frequent with the O11 switches.  There is two much of a gap at the frog for many lead trucks to bridge, thus de-railments occur. The metal used on those switches wore easily and though the non-derailing feature of the O11s was great, they were not reliable, especially when some of the lighter pre-war locomotives, ie 259E  and those of that type were in operation.  In the posted photos, the gap at the frog is clearly evident.  

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