Needing some tutorials on wall signage and other construction

Ghost decals are available on ebay in O scale.

Kenny,

 

Here's one way:

 

You can print a copy of the sign from one of the various websites that specialize in old advertising posters. Reduce the thickness of the paper by lightly sanding the rear with extra-fine sand paper. I find it easier to do this sanding before cutting the sign from the full sheet of printer paper. Trim the sign to size, and apply a thin coat of full-strength white glue to the rear. Wait a few minutes for the paper to soften; then apply the sign to your building. Now, press the surface of the sign into the embossed bricks of your building with your fingertips. Don't rub, but continue pressing until you see the brick pattern appearing across the entire sign.

Allow the glue to set, then lightly brush on some ground-up chalk or weathering powder that is similar to the color of the bricks. Use your fingertip to rub the powder lightly across the surface of the sign. With practice you will be able to color portions of the surface to represent fading and peeling paint while allowing the recessed mortar lines to retain the color of the sign.

 

 

 

Jim

Jim,

 

Did you ever try using the old onion skin typing paper?  I don't even know if you can get it anymore.

 

Joe

Joe,

 

I'm not sure about sending extra thin paper through my printer. It grabs the paper pretty violently - not sure if onion skin would survive without creasing or worse.

 

Jim

Harry,

 

I intend to try that method when I finally get around to obtaining the Photoshop software. Sounds good.

 

JIm

As we all know, Photoshop is pricey. I don't know if "Photoshop Elements" the lower priced stripped down version also has these features. There is a reference at the source which indicates there is a free program capable of accomplishing the same effect.

 

if u follow jim policastro's time tested method (has worked for me every time) one other thing u can do is very lightly run your fingernail over the sign along each brick mortar line. this will really help sink the sign into the bricks. u have to let the glue set a few minutes to avoid having it too wet and tearing the sign but even when I've ripped it a bit it still looked great, just older.

jerrman

p.s. that bldg. always looked like it might have offices. how about insurance, accountant, travel agency, bank, private detective:-) or a vet. if u did a travel agency u could put all kinds of travel ads in windows, plus a travel billboard on top. for a vet, there are lots of dogs u could show thru the windows. jerrman

Just what Mr. Policastro said.  Its real easy to do.

I was thinking about this and probably worth a shot.

 

If you can get some onion skin and you use an ink jet printer where the paper path is straight through - like Epson does, you can cut a piece of onion skin perhaps and inch all around smaller. Then take the onion skin and scotch tape it at the leading edge to a piece of regular paper. You should run the scotch tape completely across the onion skin so the OS doesn't catch on anything on the way through. Place that piece on top and see if it will run through.

 

Thanks for each of your replies. Tonight is my first off night and I've been pouring over my software trying to see how I can make a sign. I do have a full version of Photoshop , but it's been years since I've played in it.

Our county was founded around the old L&N railroad from German settlers. The ideas are growing about what some of my next projects may could be projected in that time period. We actually still have the first L&N depot in use as today by CSX. Seems like it's used as a museum. While looking at Cullman's historical website tonight, I found a old three story structure that used to be a old hotel. Oddly enough, the family is still in business today with other types of stores.

Do you guys think a black signs like on the Richter's Hotel would look appealing as is on the picture on this link?

 

Can't figure out how to add the link, so here it is copied below.

 

 

http://www.cullmancity.org/Photos.htm

Kenny, a couple of thoughts here. If photoshop is a pain, all you have to do is go to Google Image for the sign you want (or go to a number of great sign websites like www.trainweb.org/tylick/signintro.htm in which you'll see a number of categories and dozens and dozens of signs to print out) and put the image in Word. You can then size them when you print it out. Easy. 

 

Or, Google "Ghost Decals O scale" as SIRT suggested. You'll see some great water decal signs for sale very inexpensively. And they're already weathered and faded. 

 

As far as the black sign with white letters on the Richters hotel, it will look great. I've used that idea many times and it always stands out graphically. 

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Jerrman

GIMP (windows, Mac, Linux) is free software - I loaded it on my Linux Ubuntu Laptop and it is very nice. I have not loaded it on my Mac, but might do it when I get my new Mac.  My current Mac is getting old and full.  On the Mac there is a program "Pixelmator" (in the app store)  is it $29.99 and you could make Ghost decals like Harry suggests with Photoshop very easily.

Here's the image:

 

 

I think it would look fine.

 

Also, I neglected to mention, I like the green color scheme.

 

Whew, why I didn't think that thin paper would be more delicate. Lol.....maybe once the glue dries a bit more I can do some damage control. I've never used chalks before either so might have ot pick some of those up. Perhaps some dull coat will bring it down some too. Lol, but either way, yeah.......I'm going ot have some fun with this.

 

Mr. Doyle, Mr. Policastro and Mr. Jerrman, I'm worse than a women when it comes to changing my mind. While I still may put the hotel sign up sometime, I couldn't pass up trying this one.

 

You guys are awesome and I am thankful for your mentorship.

 

This building; and like the first few I've built was only intended to be used as skill builders. So I figured I would take another stab at this from the back side. I kinda wished I would have used the exacto knife and trimmed out the lil man above the gum pack. Never the less, I do like the idea of doing these. I think perhaps on this one I should have thinned the paper down just a lil bit more.

 

I'm wondering how it would look if I were to tape off the brick and do a very light dusting of the green brick color with my airbrush to make it look like it's been painted over. Is that a technique any of you use?

 

 

 

Kenny

Kenny, they're looking pretty darn good. With respect to your airbrush idea, yes, that might work if you go lightly. What I and a lot of modelers do is "dry brush" the brick color on the ad (dry brushing, if you're not familiar with the technique, is putting a little paint on the end of a soft, flat brush, wiping almost all off on a paper towel until almost nothing comes off, then lightly brushing with vertical strokes. You can see the remnants of the paint go on very very slowly and easily control it based on how much pressure you put on the brush. This will make the ad fade more into the brick and seem more like it's painted on. You can also try some white/off white with the same technique and that will give it a old faded look). 

 

Jerrman

Thanks for the previous help regarding the wall murals. Today, I purchase a basic chalk kit from Hobby Lobby and got them looking a bit better without having to paint. The dull coat spray however, really brought out some scratches that I was hoping to keep hid. I understand now why you should not sand on the colored surface.

 

 

So with that completed, and rather than clutter up the forum with a new thread, I’ll just continue this one.

 

Moving on to the next phase, I was wondering if I should have purchased a separate ladder for this fire escape. Since I don’t have a platform on the ground level, which way do I need to glue this? To me it looks odd if I continue the bottom steps at the same angle that the upper steps are as they would then just kinda point out to no where. But then again, if I glue it up and down vertical, it looks odd since these are steps rather than a ladder with rungs. At this stage, I’m not particularly worried about being prototypical as much as I just want it to look somewhat appealing to the eye on the layout later.

 

And lastly since this is new plastic, do I need to prime before spaying it black? I would assume that you would need to just like any other and also, would it be better if I took a Dremel tool and slightly burrowed down to the plastic when I eventually get ready to attach this to the building? I’ve never glued anything to a painted surface before and not sure how the cement will hold. I’m using plastruc plastic weld.

 

 

Obviously you can tell the steps are upside down, but I thought it would look better since the other end is angled for fit in another platform. I figured if I glue them in this way, I can snip out the steps so that there will be access. I didn't see this coming, or I would have looked around and purchased a regular ladder. Below in the last picture the steps come down to the level of the lower window seal.

 

 

The angle of the picture is somewhat distorted by my point and shoot camera, but I think you can get the idea of what I'm needing.

 

After giving it a bit of thought, I was wondering how this would look?

 

 

Thanks again,

 

Kenny

I think the vertical position looks a bit odd considering they're stairs, not a ladder. If it's at the same position of the upper one, I think it would be fine if the end would be low enough for a man to pull it down when needed. If not, maybe add a "rope" so that it looks like it could be pulled down with that. 

 

I always prime first, then paint particularly on plastic. Better adhesion. 

 

I'd be careful about using a dremel tool. Those fire escapes are pretty fragile. Prime, paint, then add a little rust powder in key places. 

 

For gluing, if your glue works, great. The paint actually gives it some "tooth" and something more to adhere to. Otherwise, I'm sure ACC medium density glue will work very well. 

 

Jerrman