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Good afternoon 

Ok..got my Williams Bachmann 44 ton today..it' taking some getting used to. 

My biggest problem...I can' get it into creeping/switching  speed!..hell my old Marx, and my Williams oversized will creep along just fine..this  new engine has two speeds..normal..and rocketship!!..I'm using a rail-king z500 controller.....I've mastered the sounds...but I want my switching speed!!..lol

 

Thanks

Kevin

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Not my illustration or words.  Copied and pasted from another post

 

Remove the yellow wire from one motor, the blue from the other. Wrap them, separated, with insulating tape and secure them inside the shell. Now connect the two motor terminals you just freed up with a new wire. Done.

 A DPDT switch can be installed, too, if you want the capability of switching between series/parallel.

Take off the shell

Each motor has one blue wire and one yellow wire. The colors may be different, but the technique is the same.

-Follow the blue wire from one motor back to the board

-cut that wire at the board

-Follow the yellow wire from the other motor to the board

-cut that wire at the board

-Take the two wires, one from each motor that you disconnected from the board, and hook these two wires to each other. Solder them and insulate with heat shrink, or use a wire nut instead.

-It does not matter which wire from which motor, as long as you take a different color from each motor.

-test run the loco before putting the shell back on

From a thread by ROY BOY. More info here

Kevin gibson posted:

Mine is the new scale version..i.know they can go slower..but danged if I can figure it out!

That is surprising, especially since you are using a modern transformer, which starts at 0 volts, pretty much, (some/most of the old PW transformers started at 6 volts or so, I understand).

I have one of these WBB scale 44T, and it has been test run, on modern equipment. It definitely ran as expected - no cruise control, but definitely a decent speed range.

I suspect your rev unit board may be flaky - that's the only explanation I can see, especially if other things run as expected on your transformer.

Last edited by D500
D500 posted:
Kevin gibson posted:

Mine is the new scale version..i.know they can go slower..but danged if I can figure it out!

That is surprising, especially since you are using a modern transformer, which starts at 0 volts, pretty much, (some/most of the old PW transformers started at 6 volts or so, I understand).

I have one of these WBB scale 44T, and it has been test run, on modern equipment. It definitely ran as expected - no cruise control, but definitely a decent speed range.

I suspect your rev unit board may be flaky - that's the only explanation I can see, especially if other things run as expected on your transformer.

I'e only tried this one engine on the transformer...it's second hand..could be an issue with it...but everything else seems to work.

John H posted:

Take off the shell

Each motor has one blue wire and one yellow wire. The colors may be different, but the technique is the same.

-Follow the blue wire from one motor back to the board

-cut that wire at the board

-Follow the yellow wire from the other motor to the board

-cut that wire at the board

-Take the two wires, one from each motor that you disconnected from the board, and hook these two wires to each other. Solder them and insulate with heat shrink, or use a wire nut instead.

-It does not matter which wire from which motor, as long as you take a different color from each motor.

-test run the loco before putting the shell back on

From a thread by ROY BOY. More info here

I don' think this will work on mine

John H posted:

Take off the shell

Each motor has one blue wire and one yellow wire. The colors may be different, but the technique is the same.

-Follow the blue wire from one motor back to the board

-cut that wire at the board

-Follow the yellow wire from the other motor to the board

-cut that wire at the board

-Take the two wires, one from each motor that you disconnected from the board, and hook these two wires to each other. Solder them and insulate with heat shrink, or use a wire nut instead.

-It does not matter which wire from which motor, as long as you take a different color from each motor.

-test run the loco before putting the shell back on

From a thread by ROY BOY. More info here

I don' think this will work on mine...I have 4 wires coming off each motor.red black, red black..plus the motors are down inside the trucks...

Are you using a transformer that starts at zero volts?  Many postwar style transformers go right from "off" to 8 volts.  That would cause a jerky start on some new locos with highly efficient motors, IF the reversing unit / command board in those locos doesn't have some kind of voltage-dropping circuitry.  1990s K-Line comes to mind.

Last edited by Ted S

Ted

Ted S posted:

Are you using a transformer that starts at zero volts?  Many postwar style transformers go right from 8 volts to off.  That would cause a jerky start on some new locos with highly efficient motors, IF the reversing unit / command board in those locos didn't have some kind of voltage-dropping circuitry.  1990s K-Line comes to mind.

Im using a rail king z500..I'm not sure of it' starting voltage. But as soon as you apply volts it will start moving quite fast..

Kevin gibson posted:

Ted

Ted S posted:

Are you using a transformer that starts at zero volts?  Many postwar style transformers go right from 8 volts to off.  That would cause a jerky start on some new locos with highly efficient motors, IF the reversing unit / command board in those locos didn't have some kind of voltage-dropping circuitry.  1990s K-Line comes to mind.

Im using a rail king z500..I'm not sure of it' starting voltage. But as soon as you apply volts it will start moving quite fast..

- You need to test this transformer on another known loco or two, and stop guessing. Get some data. This loco does not need series wiring - though that is usually an improvement - but these are not rocket ships.

- If a known loco runs well on your new/used transformer, then the WBB loco boards are to blame.

- Series wiring is all fine and good (I've done it, certainly, here and there), but this WBB loco runs fine without it, unless it's faulty. Get some data.

D500 posted:
Kevin gibson posted:

Ted

Ted S posted:

Are you using a transformer that starts at zero volts?  Many postwar style transformers go right from 8 volts to off.  That would cause a jerky start on some new locos with highly efficient motors, IF the reversing unit / command board in those locos didn't have some kind of voltage-dropping circuitry.  1990s K-Line comes to mind.

Im using a rail king z500..I'm not sure of it' starting voltage. But as soon as you apply volts it will start moving quite fast..

- You need to test this transformer on another known loco or two, and stop guessing. Get some data. This loco does not need series wiring - though that is usually an improvement - but these are not rocket ships.

- If a known loco runs well on your new/used transformer, then the WBB loco boards are to blame.

- Series wiring is all fine and good (I've done it, certainly, here and there), but this WBB loco runs fine without it, unless it's faulty. Get some data.

I tried it on my old 1033....and it works fine now..my newish  z500 starts the voltage to high..and causes all of my engines to take off...

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