O72 turnout distance center to center

Can you clarify a little? 

Do you mean 2 turnouts back to back creating a cross-over and the resultant spacing between the parallel tracks that result? 

Or are you talking about something like a passing siding (like a simple "oval within a larger oval")?  (I don't think it's that, because when I just drew it out in RR Track, the spacing there is over 1 foot.)

It also might be good to specify what type of track you are using. (Lionel O, Lionel O27, Atlas, Ross, Gargraves, etc)

-Dave

Yes, please provide some details.

Here is an example of Lionel O 042 turn-out and an 072 turnout with ~ 8.5" center to center. Depends on the straights from turn section. By the way, 6" should be plenty.

Sorry

I have Lionel 3 rail metal track. The O42 turnout with a O31 curve takes 8 1/2 inches from the main line to the turnout track. I was wondering if I could make the 8 1/2 inch space smaller by using O72 turnout with a 072 curve. Trying to create more space for a bigger passenger station. Less track space for more building space.

Thanks Gary

We may need a sketch to figure out what you are trying to do.

In the pic below, the top is the O42 turnout with O42 curves off the curved leg and O31 curves off the straight leg.  The software measured ~ 7.5" center rail to center rail for that - not exactly what you state for distance, but close enough for me to wonder if this is the starting point of what you have now.

The second pic is with an O72 turnout, still using O31 off the straight leg, but also using O31 off the curved leg.  The purple piece is just an additional piece of O72 drawn on top to demonstrate that O72 will not work for the inner part here, it will nearly hit the outer leg with only one piece after the curve.

The lower pic lessens the space between the tracks, but you seem to want more space between for a bigger station, not less, so I must be misreading your intent.

-Dave

Gary, a sketch would be great. But if I understand you correctly, yes. Moonmans diagrams are similar to what I think you want to do, but I believe he kept you right at 8.5" space and evened out the ends of the straights. Removing the 301x-s would leave your ends uneven, but parallel, and closer together. That and the 5505 are in there to avoid an ess-turn (S-turn). The vast majority of model railroaders avoid them, but personally I don't own much in the way of super long cars, do run 0-27 track and turnouts, and use 0-27 esses, and do so without many problems...So, going with a 0-72 ess may not be ideal, but it might not be a big issue either. I think it depends on what you run and how your dealing with it(lengths/weights/speeds). 

 If your not able to get a quick photo or sketch up, have you tried a virtual track program like Moonman and Dave? Some have 3d aerial views too. I know there are a few good free ones out there. I use a free 2d version of one called Any-rail http://www.anyrail.com/download_en.html I chose it because I found it easier for me to learn quickly than a couple of others. The free version is limited to 50 pieces of track and/or scenery and you can buy into the full version if you like it and feel limited by 50pc. I lay my track in Anyrail, then make a snip, or file type I can use in a paint, photo, and/or graphics program for better scenery. 

i see Ross is making a #4 tinplate (tubular track) switch.  to keep your siding as close to the mainline as possible, this would be your best bet.  unlike curve switches, number switches merely diverge at an angle and can much more smoothly transition into a siding without the 'S' curve entrance/ exit that will inevitably result using a curved switch.

Ross is definitely the way to go.

BEST OF ALL! You can fit ALMOST TWICE AS MANY SIDINGS IN YOUR YARD SPACE  with our new switches!

http://www.rossswitches.com/pr...tches/rossplate.html

Hi

I have a small layout but use 72 switches throughout, this results in a spacing of 51/4" centre to centre, this works very well for me and packs a lot more in on the layout.

We still need more information about your track usage. 031 tubular track is significantly higher than 027 track. But they can be made to operate together. Lionel never made 042 switches directly compatible with 031 track. What track are you using? or a combination?

I just assumed he's using Fastrack with the sizes he listed.

Ditto, this too.  I didn't want to focus too much on that, I wanted to keep my post a little more to the geometry questions.

I did have to mix O27 components (the O42 turnout pictured) with O components (everything else - apparently RR Track lets you mix, which makes sense here I guess) in my diagram.

We also should determine if custom cuts are considered permissible.  O31 can be mixed with O42 to get more variety, but due to the O42 being an odd multiple of 12 to a circle it's not as easy as substituting the other diameters that are either 8 or 16 to a circle.

-Dave

FasTrack doesn't' come in O42 (at least not yet). (31, 36, 48, 60, 72, 84 - note all but the 31 go up by 12" - that's part of the original system design feature)

While I've not purchased any, I think I also might have heard that the O31 is not equivalent to O31 tubular in the actual size of the circle.

-Dave

Fast Track and the newer 031 switches have expander pieces on the curves and straight. (on fast Track, I do remember the curve size.) Just eliminate the expander curve to get closer track spacing. Removing the expander pieces on Fast Track may disable the Automatic Anti Derail feature. Moving the tracks together also makes a sharp S curve that can cause problems.

I use lionel 031 type track 054R. It can easily be can to fit whatever your needs are.

You are right Dave (042?oops) , I never noticed the size pattern, I only use fastrack at my moms or lil' bro's, and My Super-O and O loops have no turnouts. But yes, Dave different companies measure in different ways. And while Fastrack is measured center rail to center rail, Lionel tubular is on the outer edges so they are different(at least I would think so). Overlands #4 ross idea vs curved turnout is a winner if this isn't a plastic roadbed track, but I have no experience with Ross and Lionel tubular together to know for sure how easy or hard the transition is between the two mfg.

If he even has Lionel track

Overlands #4 ross idea vs curved turnout is a winner if this isn't a plastic roadbed track, but I have no experience with Ross and Lionel tubular together to know for sure how easy or hard the transition is between the two mfg.

Check out the link.  Connecting a Rossplate switch with Lionel tubular track is as easy as pushing the pins together. 

http://www.rossswitches.com/pr...tches/rossplate.html

Thanks to all

Dave answered my question so it looks like I'll be leaving it alone. The picture shows what I was trying to say but it looks to me there's little or no difference. Thanks again to all who replied and, have a great weekend  

Gary

You can insert a piece of straight track on the diagonal between the connection of the curves.  Its length will allow you to change the spacing.

Jan