Plaster cloth residue

Sounds like my experience with it as well.  I use two to three layers of it to get strength.

Yes you will have a mess left in the pan. I also use 2 layers for strength.

It's more economical to use only a single layer of plaster cloth, but, then, when it is set, cover it with a good thick layer (1/4" or more) of a strong, but inexpensive, plaster such as Structolite, Gypsolite or Hydrocal.

 

It would take many layers of plaster cloth to create a hard shell strong enough to withstand the normal stresses our scenery should be able to endure (particularly near the layout edges).

 

Jim

Good idea, Jim.  That way you can create just the contours you want, as well.  I like to use wallboard joint compound, pre-mixed, for that purpose.  I'm lazy.

As Jim's comment suggests, all you are really trying to do with the first layer is to create a continuous, droopy, stiff surface strong enough to hold the next layer(s) of plaster (or whatever).  Plaster cloth is one good way to do this.  There are many others, including paper towels (or "rags in a box") dipped into very thin plaster, strips of cloth dipped in white glue, strips of construction rosin paper, extra-wide masking tape, chicken-wire and papier mâché, thin sheets of thermoplastic material (e.g. Varaform) that are shaped by heat, etc., etc.   

It is all a tradeoff among cost, messiness and tedium.  Some of the above techniques are strong enough to stand alone, others require extra layers of filler.  Great results can be produced with any of them.  

I believe the WS instructions suggest multiple layers, overlapped, to achieve some 'strength' of the shell.  However, the shell is further enhanced with a layer of Sculptamold, or some such additional topping...which is important if you plan to 'plant' trees, et al. 

As with any product of this sort, there is a 'learning curve', a time of familiarization, finding out how to use, what works.

All in all, I think plaster cloth is pretty neat stuff.  And I think it's much cleaner than paper-something dipped in plaster something-else. 

 

But, TEHO, when it comes to scenery.

 

Just another opinion in an attempt to help.

 

KD

 

One more question: how do I get the plaster cloth to stick to the aluminum screen. It isn't sticking to the area under a protrusion. To state it differently, I have an area that protrudes out a bit and the plaster cloth won't stick to the underside of the bump.

What a mess! This isn't as easy to do as it looks on YouTube. ;-(

It's screen, sew it down with a needle and thread !

 

Or just stick some toothpicks in it  :-)

If I sew it on before I wet it then that might work, but there's no way to sew it when it's wet.

I use two or three layers of the plaster cloth, which I like, and then use Sculptamold for a surface layer because it is very easy (and far less messy) to work with.

 

The Woodland Scenics plaster cloth is fine, but for large areas I usually use the type that the medical profession uses for making casts because it is less expensive.  Ask your doctor where to get it at the best price.

OK here is a different way to use plaster cloth.  It is a method I have used for a very long time. 

 

I use it dry!  Yep dry.  I lay the cloth on the screen or whatever. (I tape up the dry on the really steep or over hanging parts)  Next I have a spray bottle with just water in it.  I lightly spray the dry hanging strips.  I do about 4 or 5 strips at a time.  Next I have a bowl with just water in it and a 2 inch cheapo brush.  I lightly dip the brush in the water and lightly stroke the wet plaster strips.  I usually only overlap an inch or so.  I do use multiple strips around stress points in the scenery, IE bridge abutments, tunnel portals, etc,.  In regards to getting it to stick to screen just lay a single sheet of newspaper on the screen and put the dry strips on that, but only is I'm having issues.  Seems the screen from some manufacturers use a fine oil in their process.  Old screen works the best.  I get mine from a fellow railroader who owns a scrap yard.  Bottomline the bowl has very little plaster in it, the plaster goes on the layout!

 

Anyhow like I said just a different method.   Russ

USG's STRUCTO-LITE has always been my choice. It's very inexpensive, light weight and strong as the dickens when dry.  Since I have a unlimited supply of burlap I cut in into strips about 4" - 6" wide X 12" - 14" long, dip it into a slurry of STRUCTO-LITE and lay it over a chip board lattice structure.   

In the past I have used commercial-grade paper towels (the type used in public restrooms) dipped in a soupy plaster mix and then draped over screen wire. Two layers provided a very solid scenery foundation.

Thanks, Leon, that's exactly what I'm doing now. More pics to follow in a week or so.

One thought...Michael's sells the same product only under a different name.  Same size as WS.  Their price is $9.95, not $11.99 in your LHS.   I use their 40% off coupon which makes a roll cost just under $6
bucks.
Same thing at Hobby Lobby and WS lightweight hydrocal.
Guess that's two thoughts.

My approach for model railroad scenery base is as follows:

 

- cardboard web hot glued together - about 6" grid

- red rosin paper hot glued over the cardboard web

- one layer of Craft store plaster cloth applied dry, then brushed with water

- brushed on top coat of Gypsolite

 

 

 

It is very strong, light weight, and relatively inexpensive.  It goes up fast, easy to alter, minimal mess.  To highlight its strength:

I have a 3' wide 20' aisle aisle covered with hard shell scenery, In this area I removed all the cardboard webbing and red rosin paper once the plaster cloth/ Gypsolite set.  The hard shell is fully self supporting once set.

 

For rock faces I either hand carve wet molding plaster for sedimentary rock, or cast in place rock faces using molding plaster and rubber molds.  

 

 

Ed Rappe

 

 

 

 

Ed, what is red rosin paper? I'm not familiar with it.

Red rosin paper is commonly used by builders to protect finished wood floors in new homes prior to move in.   It comes 3' wide rolls and found in the paint department at Lowes and Home Depot.  It is water resistant and when put over the cardboard web provides a contoured subsurface for the plaster cloth to lay over.  Generally I cut it in 12" x 18" pieces for easy working.

 

Ed