Skip to main content

I have watched the Lionel's (Mike Reagan) Video on buss wiring several times. The assumptions I have made are:

The Buss wire(s) is a Red wire and a Black wire at least 16 gauge. The red wire is connected to the middle rail and the black wire to the outside rail. The addition loops are connected via a red wire jumper from the track to the red buss wire.

 

The Black and red wires are connected to the power source (my case a Lionel 180 brick). 

 

If you have more than one loop, the black wire needs only to be connected to one loop but can be connected to all if desired.

 

What do you do with the other ends of the buss wire(s)?  Per the video, you leave them unconnected to anything. Do you need to have a cap of some sort on the bare ends?

 

Thanks

Brent

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

More problems:

 

I have the connected the brick 180 to the (buss)black and red wires and have no power at all. When connecting the (red) wire to the brick and check the current the meter reads 19 volts, then I add the black wire and the current reads ZERO, reversing the connection on the brick by connecting the black wire to the brick the meter reads 19 volts but when connecting red wire there is ZERO power.

 

I am using 14 gauge wire and quick disconnects for 14 ga.

 

Before I decided to re-wire I had the brick connected directly to the track (fastrack) with 16 gauge wire and disconnects with jumpers from loop to loop (3).

 

I was loosing 3 volts on the far end of the loop is why I decided to change to 14 gauge.

 

Folks, you can tell I nothing about electricity and I don't what I am doing wrong. I don't know if my terms are correct (volts,amps, wattage)

 

I could use some help

 

Thanks

Brent

gunrunnerjohn, THANKS

 

It was a short, thought I had disconnected my #2 loop because I want to run convential on that loop and Legacy on #1 & #3, two feeders were not disconnected from #2 and the track was not connected thus a short.

 

Thanks for the advice and help, this is not the first time you and other forum members have come to my rescue.

 

Having solved that major hurdle, I plan to guide the Alabama Crimson Tide to a victory of at least one point tonight

 

Thanks again

Brent

Originally Posted by BReece:
..I am using 14 gauge wire and quick disconnects for 14 ga. ...

That was a good move!  Bob Nelson(lionelsoni) estimates typical "O" track comparable to 16 AWG copper wire, which has a resistance of 4 milli-ohms per foot.   He recommends using 14 AWG(solid or stranded - your choice) as feeders to be certain that the feeder resistance is less than that of the track itself.

 

Originally Posted by BReece:
What do you do with the other ends of the buss wire(s)?  Per the video, you leave them unconnected to anything. Do you need to have a cap of some sort on the bare ends?

 

Thanks

Brent

Brent, since I haven't watched the video, I have no idea how you have unconnected ends.  If you're running black and red wires as 2 conductor cable, both black and red wires should be terminated.

 

You may want to back up and get a better feel for wiring.  It may help to stop and check out this page  Toy Train Layout Wiring - Basic

Originally Posted by challenger3980:

Hi Rob,

 I wish that Bob Nelson (lionelsoni) wasn't a One Forum kinda guy, I learned a LOT from him when I used to spend more time on that other forum. Bob is truly a Treasure Chest of information, and has unbelieveable PATIENCE, for those that don't understand electrical theory the way that he does.

 

Doug

So true!!!  BTW: he OCCASIONALLY responds here on this forum.

 

- walt

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×