I'm planning to install a 3v upgrade kit into the tender of a nice '5v engine' because the original 5v PS2 and it's 9v battery won't fit inside the new tender.
It seems wasteful to replace components that might be common to both systems - does anyone happen to know if some of the engine's electronic components and connections (smoke unit, smoke fan, tach sensor, LEDs) in a 5v steamer can be safely used with a 3v upgrade kit?
Replies sorted oldest to newest
The whole smoke unit is identical, as is the tach sensor. You can use the LED's and headlights as well, they're all the same.
I'm assuming the 5V board was in the locomotive?
When a 5V board fails, it's simply replaced with a 3V board (or the new PS/3 board) with the 5V connectors in the existing locomotive. All the other components are left in place and work fine.
If the PS-2 5V and battery won't fit, you may run into the same issues with PS-2 3V. Board is similar size, battery also is larger, though thinner. You do need to change speaker from 16 ohm to 4 ohm. G
Thanks John,
The 5v board was actually mounted in the tender so I guess there might also be an issue of tether pin compatibility if I just plug the 5v connectors into a 3v board.
Which tender? You move the 5V connectors off the 5V board onto the 3V board. G
Yep, change the speaker, the battery lead, and move the connector shells to the 3V board. No rewiring should be necessary. The tether connections are the same.
Be careful prying the connector shells off, I use a bit of heat from my heat gun to soften them enough to slide off. Take the black ones off the old 5V board and you're all set, slide them on the 3V board.
There is a smaller AAA battery pack that should fit where the larger AA pack doesn't.
There are also tinier 2.4 volt battery sets available if you muck around on the internet, as well as smaller speakers
GRJ< I haven't studied the connectors. Do the shells hold them together, or just provide strength?
Thanks RJR - I already messed around and found some v small 2.4v batteries.
Not to sidetrack, but to add on. Is a small 2.4V battery smaller than a BCR2? On the same note, do 2.4V bateries last so long that BCR2 isn't better? There is some space and wiring saved, if you don't need the charge port,. Doesn't the same hold true, if you go PS3, or do you then need to rewire all the lights?
PS/3 doesn't use a battery at all. The BCR2 will work fine, the AAA pack is about the same size.
For the PS/3 "5V PS2 replacement" board, it has a piggyback board that drives the standard PS/2 lights. I just put one in a Premier DC3 Rail Inspection Car, other than lengthening the harnesses where necessary, it was just a PnP affair. I had to replace the speaker and toss the old battery.
There are also tinier 2.4 volt battery sets available if you muck around on the internet, as well as smaller speakers
GRJ< I haven't studied the connectors. Do the shells hold them together, or just provide strength?
The shells just guide the connectors in and do have a small detent to lock the connectors. Most of the friction comes from the contacts.
Not to sidetrack, but to add on. Is a small 2.4V battery smaller than a BCR2? On the same note, do 2.4V bateries last so long that BCR2 isn't better? There is some space and wiring saved, if you don't need the charge port,. Doesn't the same hold true, if you go PS3, or do you then need to rewire all the lights?
The 2.4v batteries seem to have a longer life. About 7yrs. G
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
