PS3 Steam Upgrade question

The 5V connectors won't fit the connectors on the PS3 steam upgrade boards, they're the 3V connectors.  However, a tech can order a PS32 board with 5V connectors to directly replace your board.  You do have to mount the board, and occasionally it won't fit where the PS/2 5V board is, I don't have a 2-8-0 to look at right now to see if there's room.

Another option is to apply a little heat to the 5V board connector shells and remove them and do the same to the PS3 upgrade board.  Then you press the 5V connector shells on the new board and you've created the PS32 replacement board.

John, I plan on using the wires and tether in the upgrade kit along with the board but can I leave the engine as is since it still has a 10 pin plug?

Dave,  No you can't do what your planning.  Because of the MUX board in engine and tender the wiring is different, and if you plug an Upgraded tender assembly into the engine with a MUX, you will damage the tach reader at least, and maybe more.

First,  Is there anything wrong with the 5V board?  If this is just a flickering light issue with smoke on, you modify the MUX boards to correct this issue.  Also there are occasions when a bad smoke fan motor causes an engine not to run right.

If the board is dead, you want to do what John says and swap connectors, or order the 5V PS-32 board and stick it in the tender with original harnesses.  This retains all the engine lighting features.  Otherwise, you loose those functions if you do a full upgrade, and only wind up with a DCS controlled headlight and no other light functions without harness modifications.   G

What GGG says.  You are either "all in" or not with the upgrade kit.

MTH Premier 20-3055-1 2-8-0 Consolidation

Here I thought the upgrade kit would handle all that!  GGG and John, RJR thanks for the answers.  I guess I really need the 32 board?  Who has one and how much?  I have the PS3 upgrade kit to trade/sell.  I have not opened the 'secret' package of boards, it is still sealed.  I do not want to lose all the lighting effects.  This is a nice premier 2-8-0 with the round charging port so it is more than 10 yrs old. According to MTH web site it was delivered in 2001!!  

GGG: The boards may be ok, but when starting out moving it gives a machine gun staccato noise and then jumps ahead.  Has just stopped being reliable.  I also could not figure out fixing the MUX board issue.  Will that still have to be done?  Is the MUX board the small board in the front top of the engine boiler, right next to the smoke unit?  The tach reader looks good and the tape is excellent.  

Will I need to go to a 3v battery too I assume?

What about the speaker, the one in this tender is 16 ohm?

Thanks for all the help, really appreciated.  Let me know if you have a 32 board for sale/trade.

I can supply pictures if necessary. 

I would send the works to GGG and have him go over it.. It sounds like there's not tooo much wrong with the engine....All our 5 volt engines are still working fine . 

It's difficult to say what you're seeing, but before replacing the boards, I'd have someone look at the locomotive, you may have a more minor issue.  Yes, the MUX board is the one you indicated.

Once it gets running, do you still have issues?  What specific issues are you experiencing?  If it's just the flickering lights, there is a fix for that.

check your email, interested!!

Alan

Dave, If you go to PS-32 you might still have to modify the MUX board.   For PS-32 no battery, just change speaker to 4 ohm.  I am out of the PS-32 5V but have them on order.  Swapping connectors with what you have would work.  Change speaker.  G

GGG: Thanks I will contact you through email.  My 5V boards have one lead(black, red, yellow wires) that comes out of the top board and goes to square black thing mounted under the board to the floor of the tender.  What is that?  I sent you a picture.  So if I understand this correctly the PS32 boards replace both the ps2 5V boards and I still use all the original plugs and wiring.  I will still need to replace the speaker and maybe do something to the MUX board.  Is that about it?  

Thank you GGG and Gunrunner for all your help.  This is much more complicated than the previous PS2 upgrades I have done, only about 3 or 4. 

E-mail sent.  G

The "black square thing" is a 5V regulator, it's bolted to the tender frame as a heatsink.

Thanks again for the responses.  I was hoping to get this thing modernized but now it looks like it is not doable at least for me.  The PS32 boards are too big for the tender evidently and the PS3 upgrade kit loses the lighting functions in the engine, firebox glow, markers, interior light.  

PS3 upgrade kit loses the lighting functions in the engine, firebox glow, markers, interior light.

That's partially correct.  You lose the ability to turn them on and off independently via the remote, but it is also possible to add a small cv board, or switch them to LEDs and add them to the headlight circuit.

Dave, round up a 3V PS/2 board, you can replace the 5V board set with that one by swapping the connector shells, I've done that a few times.  You need to change the battery and speaker as well.  It will be compatible with the MUX card.  As George says, you may still have to run the wire in the boiler, but that's not difficult.

John,  I would have to replace both the male and female connectors on the board and the wires?  Sounds beyond me.  Battery and speaker I can do.  Just seems like there is no good solution other than to spend more money and have someone do it!!  

No, you simply heat the connector shells on both boards, old and new, with something like a hair dryer or VERY GENTLY with a heat gun.  You can then slide them off and put the 5V shells on the 3V board.  Leave the 2-pin battery connector alone on the 3V board as you'll be changing to a 3V battery.

You don't do anything to the wires, we're making the board connectors compatible with the 5V female connectors.

John, I just have to heat them a little and not unsolder, correct?  Thanks so much, I am beginning to understand, finally.  That sounds like the best way to go to get upgraded and not lose the lighting functions.  Sounds like the PS32 board is a bit too large for the smaller tenders.   

I would like to thank Gunrunner and GGG for all of their help.  When you think of the time they have taken to explain this to me it is pretty thoughtful of them.  I have always thought this forum was the absolute best!!

Correct, you do NOT want to unsolder anything!  You are just getting the plastic shell of the board connector warm enough to make it more pliable so you can lift it off.  I usually warm them up, then using a very small screwdriver, lift them side to side and work them off.  Be careful NOT to scratch the board with the screwdriver, that's a big no-no.

I've never tried to put the PS32 board in a small tender, so I can't say if it'll fit.  If George says it won't fit, it probably won't fit, he's done a lot of these.

He squeezed a PS32 board into my P47 Blue Comet tender... I think he said it was tight but worked..

I normally have to see the unit and check the fit before I declare it'll work or not work.

Thanks John for the explanation.  I am getting to understand the issue more fully now.  I believe I am going to get a PS2 3v board from GGG with the 5V connectors.  That seems to be the best solution to keep all the lighting in the engine and still have a newer board.   I will just sell the PS3 upgrade kit,  and it will come out about even money wise.   

Gosh, trains are fun!  

If you get that board, you're pretty much all set.  Might as well get the battery harness, battery, and 4 ohm speaker as well, that's all you'll need.