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My premier MTH r-32 was repaired last year and given an upgraded ps 3-2 board. After a number of trips back to the local tech, we finally got it to work right.  I ran  it heavy through Christmas 2018, with all continuing to work well and then I moved it to a side track and gave some of my other fleet a work out.  Well, two weeks ago, I decided to take it for a spin. At first, it ran slow, then with only 15 volts of power, it ran like a speed demon even with the thumb wheel set to 1 smph. In fact now, at any thumbwheel setting, it takes off at full, speed, has a delayed stop when I hit the direction control button, and won’t run subway stops or make the brake wheel sounds like it did after the ps3-2 installation.  Otherwise, if I keep the power at 10 volts, it runs around my subway loop nicely and the bells and whistle work (still with delayed stopping, and no break noises/auto mode station stops).  Well, today, I finally took the time to carefully remove the shell so that I didn’t  rip off the manual sliding doors and then removed the inner shell to find the orange wire that goes to the tach reader pinched at  the base of the engine motor.  It’s not fully broke but the plastic coating has rubbed off and the metal wire is visible and may have shorted out at the base of the engine motor.  

If that is the case, is this something that a novice like myself can repair or am I looking at a shorted out cruise control portion of my board?  Can I just buy a new tach reader And install that?  I do not want to bring this back to the tech repair guy and would prefer trying to fix this myself, if possible.  Any one else experience this and successfully repair it? Thanks for any suggestions/ thoughts. 

 

Last edited by Strap Hanger
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Yes - you can splice a small section of wire in the tach reader line, but do not try and solder it at the tach reader unless you have some way to clamp the tach reader, have a good magnifier glass and very small soldering iron tip to do very precise soldering.  If you splice the line, make sure you get a good joint and shrink wrap the connections.

Bruce

  • Thanks for the quick response, Bruce, Richie. The orange colored coating of the wire that leads to the tach reader seems removed at the point it chaffed under the motor, but the metal wire  part still seems unbroken.  However, I cut and spliced on  a piece of wire at the part where the wire was exposed Just to see if the cruise control worked. It still seems to take off at full speed even at 1smph.  Using the z-4000 handles is the only way to slow it down or speed it up.  My fear is that something shorted out when the coating rubbed off exposing the metal part of the wire.  I was thinking the tach reader might now be broken or the part of the board that receives the orange wire from the tach reader.  Any  thoughts on whether this is something a layman can fix? 
Last edited by Strap Hanger

Thanks Gunrunner and GGG.  Hopefully it’s just the tach reader. Is this something that a non mth tech can replace? If so, Do I go to the mth website to order one of these and are they expensive?  Do you know the part number for a ps-32 tach reader that is appropriate for this model subway (or is this just a standard part?)

 

Last edited by Strap Hanger
Strap Hanger posted:
I do not want to bring this back to the tech repair guy and would prefer trying to fix this myself, if possible.  Any one else experience this and successfully repair it? Thanks for any suggestions/ thoughts. 

 

If it were reassembled with a pinched wire it would be his fault.  I sure as hxxx would take this up with him before trying any repairs yourself.      Was it a MTH approved service station who did your upgrade ?    I am afraid you harmed your cause a bit by opening the unit up yourself. The fact that it ran over a year after the upgrade is not in your favor either. I would however take this up with the repairman before attempting to repair it yourself. Part of his job description is to not pinch wires.    j

Last edited by JohnActon
JohnActon posted:
Strap Hanger posted:
I do not want to bring this back to the tech repair guy and would prefer trying to fix this myself, if possible.  Any one else experience this and successfully repair it? Thanks for any suggestions/ thoughts. 

 

If it were reassembled with a pinched wire it would be his fault.  I sure as hxxx would take this up with him before trying any repairs yourself.      Was it a MTH approved service station who did your upgrade ?    I am afraid you harmed your cause a bit by opening the unit up yourself. The fact that it ran over a year after the upgrade is not in your favor either. I would however take this up with the repairman before attempting to repair it yourself. Part of his job description is to not pinch wires.    j

John, you’re right. The tech, who is mth authorized, failed to secure the wire properly and it became pinched under the motor. It’s clearly his fault and it failed within one year.  However, this was the least of my problems with this guy. He tried to use the wrong speaker (the one that came with the upgrade kit and not the special small one designed for this subway) and forced it onto this subway train, bending the frame. When I pointed that out to him, he complained about having to buy a different speaker.  Then he broke one of the mechanical doors and one of the plastic frame pieces when reinstalling the shell.  He tried glueing the frame piece back and made a mess of the underside of the engine.  The headlights were also installed wrong and didn’t work at first. After four visits and returns, he finally got it too work, but I swore I’d never go back to this guy. He is more of a used car mechanic than a delicate train repairman. It’s just not worth it to me and I consider it a lesson learned. 

Strap Hanger posted:

John, you’re right. The tech, who is mth authorized, failed to secure the wire properly and it became pinched under the motor. It’s clearly his fault and it failed within one year.  However, this was the least of my problems with this guy. He tried to use the wrong speaker (the one that came with the upgrade kit and not the special small one designed for this subway) and forced it onto this subway train, bending the frame. When I pointed that out to him, he complained about having to buy a different speaker.  Then he broke one of the mechanical doors and one of the plastic frame pieces when reinstalling the shell.  He tried glueing the frame piece back and made a mess of the underside of the engine.  The headlights were also installed wrong and didn’t work at first. After four visits and returns, he finally got it too work, but I swore I’d never go back to this guy. He is more of a used car mechanic than a delicate train repairman. It’s just not worth it to me and I consider it a lesson learned. 

Maybe authorized, but obviously not competent.   That's not to say that any of us never screws something up, but I like to think I have never let anything like that out of the shop!

Strap Hanger posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

Looks like you'll need AG-0000033 Tach Reader board (no spacer), they're $7.

That wire grounded certainly cooked something, hopefully it's only the sensor.

Thanks Gunrunner. I’ll order it and give it a try. For $7, it’s worth a try. Like you said, hopefully it’s just the reader and not something else on the main boards. 

It's quite possible that it would be a repairable part if it's on the board, usually these kinds of mishaps take out the op-amp for the tach signal if something gets zapped on the board.  I replaced a few of these on PS/2 boards.

gunrunnerjohn posted:
Strap Hanger posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

Looks like you'll need AG-0000033 Tach Reader board (no spacer), they're $7.

That wire grounded certainly cooked something, hopefully it's only the sensor.

Thanks Gunrunner. I’ll order it and give it a try. For $7, it’s worth a try. Like you said, hopefully it’s just the reader and not something else on the main boards. 

It's quite possible that it would be a repairable part if it's on the board, usually these kinds of mishaps take out the op-amp for the tach signal if something gets zapped on the board.  I replaced a few of these on PS/2 boards.

Good to know, Gunrunner. I’ll order the tach reader and give it a try. If that fails, do you take deliveries for repairs? 

Well I called up Bill Lucas at ready to roll, the best train shop down here in Miami, and he said he had a spare tach reader that was the same model recommended by Gunrunner John. So I drove there today and picked it up. After carefully removing the old one, I soldered on the new one and repaired the broken wire.  As mentioned, the soldering required very careful application and took about 30 minutes to get all three wires secure.  However, thanks to gunrunner johns help, I was able to get my prized subway train back to operating with speed control  and station stops!  Fortunately, it was only the tach reader that burned out and not something on the main board.  Thanks for taking the time to help out a fellow forum member, gunrunner. Much appreciated.  Here is a short video of it running at 3 smph after I was able to carefully put  the shell back on without breaking the manual doors - 

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Last edited by Strap Hanger

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